lex4me Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 As part of my front suspension replacement project on my 91 LS400, I noticed that my rack and pinion was leaking, so figured that it was a good time to replace it. Although the volume 1 Repair Manual has been guiding me through the process on the strut removal, etc, volume 2 has the details on the steering rack - trouble is, I don't own Volume 2. I figured that I could do this rack replacement without the manual, but I came across a warning label on the old rack that raised a red flag. The message says: "CAUTION: To prevent damage to the "spiral cable & reel assembly" and possible airbag and other electrical system failure: Do not attempt to remove the steering shaft without reading the repair manual." Can anyone with a Volume 2 repair manual tell me what this warning is in regards to? I had already counted the steering wheel turns lock to lock and put the wheel at the middle, but this might in regards to something else. On a related note, any special secret to getting the shaft to release from the rack when that time comes? I have had to use puller on other splines on other jobs in the past, but there isn't room for a puller given the tight clearances here. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obergc Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 There is a statement about removing the steering wheel and centering the spiral cable when you remove the universal connecting the steering wheel shaft to the rack. They further state that removing the steering wheel and centering the spiral cable is not required if you fix the steering wheel so it absolutely cannot turn when you have the universal disconnected from the rack. They advise you so use the drivers seat belt, connecting the belt through the lower rim of the steering wheel. Basically, the manual says to center the wheels, secure the steering wheel so that it cannot be turned, place matching marks on the universal and the rack control valve shaft so that you can put it back in the same orientation, loosen the bolt on the upper side of the universal, remove the bolt on the lower side of the universal and then disconnect the universal. Does not mention the requirement for a puller to separate the universal from the splined shaft of the rack. From a 93 shop manual, volume 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex4me Posted April 25, 2004 Author Share Posted April 25, 2004 Thanks so much for the prompt reply. I have a few more questions now (big shock, I know). ...if you fix the steering wheel so it absolutely cannot turn when you have the universal disconnected from the rack... Using a seat belt absolutely prevents the wheel from turning? Seems like the wheel could turn a bit no matter what you did...thoughts? ...place matching marks on the universal and the rack control valve shaft so that you can put it back in the same orientation... Does it mention the purpose of the matching marks if you are installing a replacement rack? Any idea how can I know what spline to put the universal on with the new rack? ...loosen the bolt on the upper side of the universal, remove the bolt on the lower side of the universal and then disconnect the universal... Any mention on *how* to disconnect the universal? It seems that there is no where for the shaft to go (not enough vertical clearance). Can't imagine that jacking up the motor would help, but is there any mention of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obergc Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 Realize that the seat belt will not completely immobilize the steering wheel but it should keep you from turning it a complete revolution which would cause you problems. I know pictures in shop manual can be deceiving but it looks like the steering wheel shaft has enough clearanace for the universal to slide far enough to disengage from the rack. Trying to attach a scanned pic of the steering rack dimensions for installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex4me Posted April 25, 2004 Author Share Posted April 25, 2004 Thanks for the time that you've spent replying to my question! Is the dimension shown at the outer tie rods the suggested initial amount of threads that should be showing after initial rack installation before the initial alignment or some other measurement? Is there any mention in the manual as to whether the expectation is for the universal to come completely off of the steering shaft spline or if it is supposed to ride up further on the spline during the rack removal process? Not sure what the copyright laws are on this, but it may be that I just would benefit from a copy of the pages in the repair manual that reference this procedure! I have been keeping my eye out for just the second volume on eBay, but haven't had any luck thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex4me Posted April 25, 2004 Author Share Posted April 25, 2004 Never mind - got the rack off without issue. The things to know are: 1. Sliding the seat belt through the steering wheel and then attaching it to the drivers seat (as if you were "buckling up") only works if you bring the seat all the forward - I even lowered the shoulder height adjustment to help it reach. Once the buckle was engaged, I used the power seat motor to move the seat back to put tension on the belt and therefore the wheel - that wheel isn't going anywhere. Thanks for sharing that killer idea from the book! 2. The universal stays on the steering shaft, but not on the rack (obviously). Not sure what the match marks could be used for since I am replacing the rack, but I went ahead and put them on the splines for the rack and on the universal using touchup paint from a car I no longer own. 3. Jacking up the engine and transmission is required to gain adequate clearance to remove the rack. I put a wood block on my floor jack to prevent damage to the drivetrain and placed the jack at the mating of the engine and tranny (where the hangers connecting to the exhaust are). I removed the nuts for the two engine mounts as well as the four nuts for the transmission mount and then raised the drivetrain about an inch, maybe two. After completing the above (and obviously disconnecting my outer tie rods, removing the electrical and P/S hose connections, and removing the four bolts holding the rack on to the subframe), I was able to roll the rack off of the fingers on the subframe that hold it in place. Thanks so much for the assistance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jzz30 Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 ahh i was just going to ask but theres my answer you having to jack up the motor to get the rack off is a good sign of your motor mount gone bad so i would change it out now while the rack is off (if you already didnt put it back on.) the replacement of the motor mounts will have a very big improvement in noise, and vibration. you will find after you change the mount that you dont need to jack the motor up to get the rack up. well if you want to see some pics of the rack and motor mount its in the gallery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex4me Posted April 25, 2004 Author Share Posted April 25, 2004 This little project had already turned into quite a large one. I am replacing the following on both sides: 1. front upper control arms to get new upper ball joints 2. lower control arm bushings (Daizen Sport variety) 3. front upper control arm bushings (pressing out the new Lexus ones that came with the control arm to put in the Daizen bushings) - plan on putting the new OE control arm bushings on eBay ;) 4. front lower ball joints 5. front struts 6. rear struts 7. both engine mounts 8. transmission mount 9. rack and pinion with new inner tie rods 10. sway bar bushings (once I find a source) 11. outer tie rods A new add-on will be a power steering fluid filter. I am tempted to replace the high pressure hose and p/s pump, but would rather avoid it with everything else that I am doing - the directions that came with the new rack just indicate to be sure to flush out the old fluid and install a filter. The pump and lines were not leaking, only the rack. I am also migrating to 99 GS400 wheels with new Kumho Ecsta KH11 tires. I hope to replace the rear control arms bushings, but haven't had luck finding a source that has them available yet. The local dealership replaced my rear carrier bushings just nine months ago, but they are rattling now over every little bump. They've offered to take a look at it and correct it if their fault, but if they determine that it is not their fault, they will charge me a minimum of $75 - about the cost of new bushings. Grr... I may wait to tear apart the rear after I find a source on the rear control arm bushings since I have no desire to tear into this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jzz30 Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 swaybar bushings should be available through the dealer. and oh your car will be as good as new once you do all that work. did mine a couple of months ago (with a bit more parts to to you list) and well its a pleasure to drive again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex4me Posted April 27, 2004 Author Share Posted April 27, 2004 Okay...gotta ask: What else did you replace in your marathon parts replacement? Makes me wonder if I forgot something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.