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Door Locks 2010 Es 350


KillerBox

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I need some help guys!

My girlfriend decided it would be a good idea to hit a trashcan with her passenger side mirror. After she got a $800.00 quote to replace the mirror she called me. Being the sucker that I am, I replaced her power mirror motor and the mirror is working fine.

The next time she drove the car she discovered that the passenger side door lock doesn't always come unlocked. It doesn't matter if you do it with the door locks or the remote.

The door locks fine. To unlock the door, most of the time you must push lock twice and then unlock. If you just push unlock it only tries to move a little.

If you manually push on the door locks with your finger the other 3 have a stronger snap action to them. The passenger side that is not working well has weaker snap action.

I took the door apart for the 2nd time and didn't notice anything broke or out of place.

So now I am trying to decide what might be going on?

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Here is my guess:

It sounds like the mechanical cable running from the inside lock/unlock lever could be damaged. If you let the door panel dangle by the cable when you removed the door panel, that might have bent the wire that runs through the cable housing. I've never disconnected the mechanical cables from door panels and have either tied the door panels to the door with string or propped them up so that the door panels would not fall to the ground and stress the cables. Maybe remove the door panel again and see if the wire is bent where it enters the housing or if the cable housing is bent/kinked somewhere. You might be able to straighten it with you fingers but you might need to replace the cable.

I last noticed this potential issue when installing turn signal mirror covers on our 2012 Prius v a couple of years ago. It never fails to amuse me how all vehicles made by Toyota - from the least expensive Scion to the most expensive Lexus LS600hL - share the same basic component designs although I guess that makes sense.

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killerbox,

I suspect the door lock actuator has gone south. Usually its the motor that develops dirty brushes or has just sat too long in one position and has seized slightly. It may just need to be given either a shot of electrical contact cleaner spray, given some time for the fluid to evaporate, and then exercised.

The motor is hidden inside a small plastic gear drive assembly that is sealed, but can be split open to get at the motor. If the motor can't be rejuvinated, it is replaceable for about $15, and then the unit can be resealed up to be made waterproof after testing.

To see what I'm talking about, check out this thread from another Lexus forum: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-430/703247-26-diy-vs-1-800-at-the-dealer-door-lock-actuator.html

Be sure to read several of the posts after the one with the pictures. There are some additional ideas there.

I've changed these actuator motors myself in other cars, and it really is this simple. Sure beats the money that Lexus will want for a replacement actuator. Good Luck!

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