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hello iam alexander from the netherlands

i own a ls400 94'

last week i took the cluster out and fixed the capasaters

i put the cloks back in and started the engine,runs perfect

only de airbay licht was om ,traid to recet wit undoing the battary

after that running ok licht stil om but after 2 days try too start

starts direkt and deais whitin a second

is there any body whit a anser

sorry for mij english

gr alexander

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I doubt the cluster would have any effect on the running of the engine. I suspect that the two are unrelated. I would double check the battery connection to make sure it is strong and tightly clamped down.

Ik betwijfel of het cluster zou geen effect op de werking van de motor hebben. Ik vermoed dat de twee geen relatie hebben. Ik zou dubbel te controleren van de batterij-verbinding om te controleren of het sterk is en stevig vastgeklemd.

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CuriousB: I'm impressed!

My translation of what CuriousB said: "Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries!"

Your kidding?...well that's a relief. I thought he said "Gort! Screw Earth..nuke 'em!"

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I doubt the cluster would have any effect on the running of the engine. I suspect that the two are unrelated. I would double check the battery connection to make sure it is strong and tightly clamped down.

Ik betwijfel of het cluster zou geen effect op de werking van de motor hebben. Ik vermoed dat de twee geen relatie hebben. Ik zou dubbel te controleren van de batterij-verbinding om te controleren of het sterk is en stevig vastgeklemd.

i dubbel chekt the battery recharts in fully and no diverent

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You need to narrow it down to spark or fuel. If you spray starting fluid into air intake while cranking engine can you get it to stay running? That might indicate a fuel pump problem.

On the other hand these cars are famous for problems with the spark system, particularly the ignition coils. Usually one bank of the ignition fails so that you are running on 4 cylinders and not 8. In that case the engine will usually stay running but a bit rough and will have no power.

Je moet het terug te brengen tot vonk of brandstof. Als u spuiten begint vloeistof in luchtinlaat, terwijl tornen motor kan je het om te blijven draaien? Dat kan wijzen op een brandstof pomp probleem.

Aan de andere kant deze auto's staan ​​bekend om problemen met de vonk-systeem, met name de bobines. Meestal een oever van de ontsteking mislukt, zodat u worden uitgevoerd op vier cilinders en niet 8. In dat geval wordt de motor zal meestal blijven draaien, maar een beetje ruw en zal geen macht hebben.

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hello thanks for your comment

Today the fuel pump tested

it works well

also works well relai

he sparkles as it should be ok

I think the injector is blocked

After starting the engine

but I still do not know why

and where by

gr alexander

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Have you checked if the alarm/immobilizer system is working correctly as a fault here could cause the symptoms you have.

There is a way of bypassing the system by connecting pins in the engine bay diagnostic socket forcing the fuel pump to run constantly.

Found a link you need to connect a piece of wire between the 2 connections FP and B+ shown on the link below, if the car then starts you will know it is fuel related or something affecting its operation.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/373766-90-ls400-fuel-pump-system-problem.html

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I doubt this injector pulse theory is very likely to be the problem. If you had a faulty injector you would likely only have one or two at one time. Its unthinkable that all injectors simultaneously went bad. The car might run a little rough but it would run with 6 out of 8 injectors working.

I would set that theory aside for the time being.

You need to see if its fuel or spark. Gets some starting fluid (spray can of ether) and have someone spray into the air intake while cranking the engine. If it starts running for a bit (maybe even roughly) then its likely to be a fuel starvation problem. Maybe your new fuel pump isn't wired correctly or there is a fuse, relay, wire, or resistor broken along the way. You could use a DVM and measure voltage at the fuel pump connector and see if you have +12VDC when cranking the engine. At risk of being a smart Alec, you have confirmed there is fresh gas in the tank?

If fuel seems fine then look into ignition issues. Very well documented on this forum.

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I doubt this injector pulse theory is very likely to be the problem. If you had a faulty injector you would likely only have one or two at one time. It’s unthinkable that all injectors simultaneously went bad. The car might run a little rough but it would run with 6 out of 8 injectors working.

I would set that theory aside for the time being.

You need to see if its fuel or spark. Gets some starting fluid (spray can of ether) and have someone spray into the air intake while cranking the engine. If it starts running for a bit (maybe even roughly) then it’s likely to be a fuel starvation problem. Maybe your new fuel pump isn't wired correctly or there is a fuse, relay, wire, or resistor broken along the way. You could use a DVM and measure voltage at the fuel pump connector and see if you have +12VDC when cranking the engine. At risk of being a smart Alec, you have confirmed there is fresh gas in the tank?

If fuel seems fine then look into ignition issues. Very well documented on this forum.

I thought the same regarding the injectors, the only way to test the switching pulses accurately is with an oscilloscope a DVM wouldn't be able to react fast enough.

Good idea with the ether I had forgotten about that trick,it found the gas tank was actually empty on a previous car I had even though the gauge said it was half full!

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hello

I have the diagnostic trouble code pulled

and I have engine code 14

ignition signal no 1

Who can tell me more about this code

it is the right side, no sparks?

I had already left gechect

gr alexander

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Hi,

From my 1992 manual, engine diagnostic code 14 (15 is for igniter #2) indicates an ignition signal circuit - diagnosis: IGF1 signal from #1 igniter is not input to ECU for 8 consecutive ignition; Trouble area: 1)Open or short in the IGF1 and IGN1 circuit from the #1 igniter-ECU 2)#1 Igniter 3) ECU

The diagram shows a direct lead from the ignition switch to the igniter. Sorry I don't have the capability to post a picture, but there may be some pics available somewhere online.

From what I have found after spending time on the Australian LS forum circuit, they seem to think that around 15 years the capacitors begin breaking down, both in the display boards, as well as in the ECU boards. You probably should check your igniter circuits first - sometimes those connectors can be knocked loose, then the ECU. I believe they may be available on EBay.

HTH

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I am sending the diagnostic instructions for a 1992 LS400, since '90 thru '94 are all the 1st gens, I believe. Maybe this will help you resolve the problems you are experiencing. I think you probably should first check into #6 since you have already done some coil work - sounds like something may have been jarred loose.

The following steps are recommended if you have the diag code 14 (checking #1 igniter circuit; igniter #1 is wrapped with yellow tape in the 1992 LS400):

1. Check for spark; if OK, go to #2 (below); if not ok go to #4 (below).

2. Check harness and connector in IGF signal circuit between engine & ECT ECU and igniter; if OK, go to #3 (below); if not OK, replace/repair harness or connector;

3. Disconnect igniter connector and check voltage between terminals IGF1, 2 of engine and ECT ECU connector and body ground; if not OK check and replace ECT ECU; if OK replace igniter #1.

4. Check voltage between terminals IGT1, 2 of Engine & ECT ECU connector and body ground; if OK, go to #5 (below). if not OK, go to #9 (below).

5. Check voltage between terminal 3 of #1 igniter connectors and body ground; if OK go to #6 (below). If not OK, go to #8 (below).

6. Check harness and connector between ignition relay and ignition coil, ignition coil and igniter; if OK, go to #7 (below).

7. Check ignition coil; if OK replace igniter #1; if not OK replace coil.

8. Check ignition relay; if OK, check and repair harness or connector between battery and ignition relay, ignition relay and igniter; if not OK, replace ignition relay;

9. Disconnect igniter connector and check voltage between terminals IGT1, 2 of engine & ECT ECU connector and body ground; if OK replace igniter #1; if not OK go to #10 (below).

10. Check harness and connector in IGT signal circuit between engine & ECT ECU and igniter; if OK, check or replace the engine & ECT ECU; if not OK repair or replace the harness or connector.

HTH

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

I hope you did some research on the repairing entity in the US. If not, you could be seriously disappointed. Check out what some other folk have found, or at least, pay heed to who you need to avoid. If you cannot find anything on this forum, check out clublexus. It may save you some grief!!

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I don't want to alarm you, but if this bunch is the same as ATE, there was some very negative feedback in Clublexus (pictures were provided) about ECU repair. Pictures showed very poor quality, and the person who posted said he never got the problem resolved. Hope your experience is better!

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