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steviej

Got My First Cel Today.

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I noticed something funny/odd in the acceleration from start through 1st and 2nd gear for most of today. The car would kind of VERY faintly pulse/surge/buck as it accelerated. Then once in 3rd, the pulsing would subside. Around 10pm tonight, I got in the car started it up drove about 100 ft and the CEL came on but the car operated as normal (only 36,600 mi on the clock).

The kick in the pants is that the faint pulse/surge/buck is completely gone when accelerating.

Anyway, I'm off to Autozone in the AM to get the codes read and cleared. I am curious if the code comes back, and if the faint pulse/surging stays gone while the CEL is off.

I will keep you all posted.

Out of curiosity, what is the quickest anyone has seen an O2 sensor fail?

steviej

Edited by steviej

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How many miles? My Explorer came with a bad O2 sensor, one went bad on my mother's New Beetle at like 12000 miles, and one went bad on my father's 98 LS around 30k.

It should be covered by the warranty, probably what it is.

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sorry Steve, good question. I edited my original post.

just under 37,000 miles. I am guessing it is an O2 sensor, cause the car runs perfectly and isn't making any weird noises.

steviej

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Went to Autozone. The retrieved code was P1135.

"Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)"

I have to work from 11pm tonight to 7am Monday. I'll just bring it by the dealer first thing in AM. It is covered under warranty.

The funny thing, I had the clerk clear the code. On the way home the car was running rough again, bucking, surging, etc. About 2 miles into the trip, the CEL came on again and the ride smoothed out completely. I may just leave it and put black tape over the CEL, it runs so smooth. j/k. :lol:

The ECU must enact a default signal when the O2 sensor craps out in order to make it run smooth. don't know.

steviej

ps, oh yeah, the scan tool was very nice and simple to use. I asked how much and he said, $99. I may just go back and get one. Something else for me to think I need to want, or want to need. :blink:

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Could this problem be caused by a bad tank of gas or water in the gas? I would try putting in a can of dry gas before I would consider changing the 02 sensor. ;)

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Awesome question/suggestion Alan. I did just recently fill up. However if it were bad gas, why would one sensor be effected and not the other.

I will try that today and see if it goes away, couldn't hurt.

steviej

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About 2 miles into the trip, the CEL came on again and the ride smoothed out completely.

I remember a few people told me to unplug my battery to clear the cel when I was having trouble with my car, but the light just came right back. This is probably one of the most worthless things you can do because resetting the cel isn't going to make the problem go away!...it just turns off the light for a short amount of time.

Our cars are very smart :D ...when I replaced my intake hose that had several holes in it I forgot to plug the maf sensor back in. The car started, but it was very rough, so I turned it off. The cel came on, but within 5-10 miles of driving the car recognized that the problem was no more, and it turned off the cel on its own!

Good luck Stevie...I hope they get it right on the first try!

:cheers:

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I remember a few people told me to unplug my battery to clear the cel when I was having trouble with my car, but the light just came right back. This is probably one of the most worthless things you can do because resetting the cel isn't going to make the problem go away!...it just turns off the light for a short amount of time.

I actually had the code cleared for a reason. I wanted to see if the roughness that was occuring before the CEL came on was directly related to the code/error that eventually came up. As I have found out, it is directly related and reproducable.

I took Alan's suggestion and through in a bottle of dri-gas. Upon starting the car to come to work tonight, the CEL did not light up. The car is running less smooth than when the CEL was onm but is running nonetheless. It may very well be crappy gas causeing the sensor to send a bad signal and not a faulty sensor at all.

Thanks, Alan.

I will swing by my dealership anyway, just to have them look and swap out the O2 sensor if needed. By luck the O2 sensor will fail just after warranty and then I gotta pay for it. I'll opt for them to swap it out under warranty just cause I actually have a little time in the AM to swing by. I'll be the first one in.

steviej

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dealer determined the O2 sensor was faulty even though it wasn't tripping the CEL when I got to them. They took me in right away and replaced it under warranty. All nice and smooth now.

I mentioned about the brakes pulsation that was coming back. They inspected them too, and resurfaced the fronts and the rears. He claimed it under warranty too, so I paid nothing.

I just love when things go my way at the dealer.

later! :D

steviej

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Went to Autozone. The retrieved code was P1135.

"Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)"

ps, oh yeah, the scan tool was very nice and simple to use. I asked how much and he said, $99. I may just go back and get one. Something else for me to think I need to want, or want to need. :blink:

I'd like one too :lol:

I think they wanted $150 here in KC so that's' a good price. Lexus charges $45.00 to scan locally. Two - three trips and it's paid for itself :D

Did they charge anything to Diag?

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At Autozone it cost me a smile, a please and a thank you.

At Lexus, the car is still under warranty, so it cost THEM 2 cups of coffee, 1 mochachino and a muffin. :lol:

steviej

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