chiquipr Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Hi, I just did a mayor tune up on my 1991 Ls400, spark plugs, wires, cap's & rotor's air filter and fuel filter. I re-checked the firing order and is fine. When I start the car the check engine and track off light goes on and stay on, at idle seem fine and when I step on the gas in park I can feel a misfire at around 2000 rpm or more, when I drive it can't go over 40 mph because it start pinging bad like if it is out of timing. I got the parts from Auto Zone, do you guys think that it may be the cap and rotor. Thank you in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugster Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Hi, I just did a mayor tune up on my 1991 Ls400, spark plugs, wires, cap's & rotor's air filter and fuel filter. I re-checked the firing order and is fine. When I start the car the check engine and track off light goes on and stay on, at idle seem fine and when I step on the gas in park I can feel a misfire at around 2000 rpm or more, when I drive it can't go over 40 mph because it start pinging bad like if it is out of timing. I got the parts from Auto Zone, do you guys think that it may be the cap and rotor. Thank you in advance. Bad plug/plugs out of box? Gap set right? Dist. Cap/Rotor not good / not replaced right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiquipr Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 Hi, I just did a mayor tune up on my 1991 Ls400, spark plugs, wires, cap's & rotor's air filter and fuel filter. I re-checked the firing order and is fine. When I start the car the check engine and track off light goes on and stay on, at idle seem fine and when I step on the gas in park I can feel a misfire at around 2000 rpm or more, when I drive it can't go over 40 mph because it start pinging bad like if it is out of timing. I got the parts from Auto Zone, do you guys think that it may be the cap and rotor. Thank you in advance. Bad plug/plugs out of box? Gap set right? Dist. Cap/Rotor not good / not replaced right? New plugs out of the box, gap set right. Yes I replaced the 2 Dist Cap & rotors, also the wires. I used NGK Iridium spark plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatingupblacktop Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Hi, I just did a mayor tune up on my 1991 Ls400, spark plugs, wires, cap's & rotor's air filter and fuel filter. I re-checked the firing order and is fine. When I start the car the check engine and track off light goes on and stay on, at idle seem fine and when I step on the gas in park I can feel a misfire at around 2000 rpm or more, when I drive it can't go over 40 mph because it start pinging bad like if it is out of timing. I got the parts from Auto Zone, do you guys think that it may be the cap and rotor. Thank you in advance. Bad plug/plugs out of box? Gap set right? Dist. Cap/Rotor not good / not replaced right? New plugs out of the box, gap set right. Yes I replaced the 2 Dist Cap & rotors, also the wires. I used NGK Iridium spark plugs. Wires oem? Check resistance. Can always put back in the old parts to check the new parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiquipr Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 Hi, I just did a mayor tune up on my 1991 Ls400, spark plugs, wires, cap's & rotor's air filter and fuel filter. I re-checked the firing order and is fine. When I start the car the check engine and track off light goes on and stay on, at idle seem fine and when I step on the gas in park I can feel a misfire at around 2000 rpm or more, when I drive it can't go over 40 mph because it start pinging bad like if it is out of timing. I got the parts from Auto Zone, do you guys think that it may be the cap and rotor. Thank you in advance. Bad plug/plugs out of box? Gap set right? Dist. Cap/Rotor not good / not replaced right? New plugs out of the box, gap set right. Yes I replaced the 2 Dist Cap & rotors, also the wires. I used NGK Iridium spark plugs. Wires oem? Check resistance. Can always put back in the old parts to check the new parts. I got all the parts from Auto Zone. If it was easy to R & R the new parts with the old ones again I'll do it 10 times but is not. The main intake air hose have some cracks Do you think that would cause the problem? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggemigniani Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 yes, if the hose between the air filter and throttle body has any holes or loose clamps the engine will run poorly. This is true for all Toyota fuel injected engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 I got all the parts from Auto Zone. If it was easy to R & R the new parts with the old ones again I'll do it 10 times but is not. The main intake air hose have some cracks Do you think that would cause the problem? Thank you. Easy or not you need to get back to stable footing. You imply the rough running is as a result of the "tune up". Then I would suggest reviewing what you did before you go chasing after other theories. Pinging implies unburnt fuel, unburnt fuel suggests misfiring, misfiring suggests ignition, ignition, well that was touched. Just try disconnecting one plug at a time at the distributor and see if the roughness stays the same (ie doesn't get worse) then its a good bet that wire or plug is bad (or its arcing to chassis). Small cracks in air intake could cause rough idle but wouldn't likely explain higher throttle issues you see. This sounds like ignition to me. I'd retrace your steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORICK Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Should he check timing with a timing light? Could a vacuum hose have come undone? Duct Tape should fix anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpellet Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Do check all vacuum lines. It's very easy to get one pinched or twisted and restrict pressure to the appropriate valve or sensor. I had one of mine twisted, took me forever to trace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 I wouldn't pull off the plug wires to check and see if they fire rather use one of those laser thermal temperature detectors. In your case the very first thing I would check are the rotors. I used the NGK plugs with no problem and I did check the gap and all were exactly on right out of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiquipr Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 Thank you for all your input and replies guys. Yesterday and today going and coming back from work the car is jerking on and off too like if it was running out of gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Thank you for all your input and replies guys. Yesterday and today going and coming back from work the car is jerking on and off too like if it was running out of gas. Then I would check: 1) Incorrect wiring of cylinders to distributor (have a couple swapped) 2) Bad spark plug wire (open circuit or high resistance) 3) Wire arcing to chassis (pinched wire or damage insulation layer) 4) Bad plug I wouldn't spend much time on a vacuum leak as that would tend to be a problem at idle and less so at more open throttle positions. I could be crank position sensor but if you didn’t touch that it would seem strange that would mysteriously fail at the time you worked on other parts of the ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Although these replies are all good, why not just pull the codes since the check engine light is on? That will narrow down your search path considerably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiquipr Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Hi guys, i just want it to give you an update. I reinstalled all the old parts since car started pinging and jerking more and more but still the same, I guess that I'm gonna have to take it to the dealer for a diagnose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 You can't pull the codes yourself? There's a good tutorial on lexls.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiquipr Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Yes RD, i just pull the codes and I'm getting Code-13 witch is RPM Signal No.2. So from witch Distributor the signal No.2 come from, driver or passenger side? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzy1 Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Hi, I just did a mayor tune up on my 1991 Ls400, spark plugs, wires, cap's & rotor's air filter and fuel filter. I re-checked the firing order and is fine. When I start the car the check engine and track off light goes on and stay on, at idle seem fine and when I step on the gas in park I can feel a misfire at around 2000 rpm or more, when I drive it can't go over 40 mph because it start pinging bad like if it is out of timing. I got the parts from Auto Zone, do you guys think that it may be the cap and rotor. Thank you in advance. I'll bet a dollar to a doughnut that you have a wire crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiquipr Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share Posted March 27, 2010 I wish that it was just a crossed wire, Anyhow, I couldn't get back to my car until today due to my job. Anyway today I removed the cam sensor #2 and there is no signs of pinched wire and/or bad connection, I also checked continuity and is fine. You guys think that is the cam sensor it self? Thank you in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 id double check the firing order. 2 wires swapped can cause all sorts of issues. but id check the wheel the cam sensor reads from as well. if the sensor checks out on the meter a wire may have broken inside the harness when you moved it. they are old and can get very brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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