Oil Leak

[camlex]

Hello,

Finally, my ES300 give up at 352,700, i saw oil drop on driveway. with inspection, I saw oil under engine where

trans. & Engine joint together. not really bad but one or two drops. Any idea or suggestion will be helpful.

Thanks,

[gbhrps]

You have a 12 year old car with high mileage that is leaking oil in very small amounts. I suggest that you live with it until it loses one or two quarts between oil changes, which may never happen. To trace down and replace several different leaking gaskets will cost big money, money that you would be wise not to spend on a car with the age and mileage of yours. It would be entirely different if the car had 60 000 miles and was only 3 years old.

[George_Jetson]

352k, is that on the orininal engine? Congradulations, obviously you have been taking care of your car. only a couple drops though is surprising I would expect some of the seals are getting a little worn

[camlex]

yes, 352K with original engine and trans, only one thing i changed was PS pump @ 130K with after market.

None of my car has any kind of leak and i don't like it.

But as you explain with these many miles, i will continue driving and keep eye on oil level.

Thanks,

[kingjack133]

...probably a cam seal, and the oil is seeping through and down rolling off the tranny. LOTS of miles to go before it gets too serious if thats the cause.

There is oil for high milers which conditions the seals and internal engine parts. Add oil as needed and it will always be that much cleaner. You SHOULD pinpoint the source of the leak to be sure.

[George_Jetson]

My quess would be the rear main seal is getting worn. The cam and front crank seals should normally be replaced when the timming belt is replaced. When I worked in a shop, we did that just to make sure there were no problems (timming belts really do not like oil). Whenever we replaced a clutch, we would also replace the rear main seal. Once the clutch is out, it only takes a little more time to replace the seal, and it goes a long way to keeping a customer happy.

[kingjack133]

...excellent info George

[camlex]

My quess would be the rear main seal is getting worn. The cam and front crank seals should normally be replaced when the timming belt is replaced. When I worked in a shop, we did that just to make sure there were no problems (timming belts really do not like oil). Whenever we replaced a clutch, we would also replace the rear main seal. Once the clutch is out, it only takes a little more time to replace the seal, and it goes a long way to keeping a customer happy.

Presently, i am using 5W30, If i switch to 10W40,

Is that helps?

Thanks,

[George_Jetson]

Lucas makes a bottle of seal conditioner that you can add to your oil. It may help a little, but that is a lot of miles. I don't know if you are aware of this, but places like JDM deal with used, low mileage engines and transmissions from japan. You can get a complete engine delivered for less than a grand. I see your in Texas, I believe one place is located in Houston. These engines generaly have less than 60k on them. I have used several these engines in customer cars and have been pleased with them. They are generally sold complete all accessories included. Not that I am suggesting changing the engine because of a few drops, but at some point you may want to consider this.

[camlex]

is it safe to use Lucas?

Looks you are very experience, guide me to get best result. please share.

Thanks,

[George_Jetson]

The owner of the garage that I used to work in, was a firm believer in it. I'm sure at worse case, it would not hurt anything, and it might help little. If the leak is from the rear main seal, the only real way to repair it, is to replace the seal. I would have a hard time recomending this type of repair on a engine this old. Auto part stores sell steel trays that you could place under you car so that your garage doesn't get messed up.

[camlex]

The owner of the garage that I used to work in, was a firm believer in it. I'm sure at worse case, it would not hurt anything, and it might help little. If the leak is from the rear main seal, the only real way to repair it, is to replace the seal. I would have a hard time recomending this type of repair on a engine this old. Auto part stores sell steel trays that you could place under you car so that your garage doesn't get messed up.

Thanks,

I like the steel plate (pan) idea. Since engine runs so good, i really don't like add any other then oil.

Where can i get this plate, and how to install.

Thanks,

[George_Jetson]

Most large auto parts stores carry these drip pans, but you do not install them on the car. You place them on the floor where you park your car. It is there only to keep your garage floor from getting crudded over.

[gbhrps]

I have a toy, a 1990 Nissan 300ZX, that developed a small leak from the rear crank seal about 10 years ago. I was about to pull the clutch and tranny to replace the seal when an online forum response suggested to change the PCV valves (The car has 2 of them) and the leak should go away. I did, and it did, and hasn't returned to this day. Apparently the clogged PCV valves allowed the crankcase pressure to rise enough to force oil out the rear seal. I'm not saying that the same thing applies in your case, but maybe its worth a look. good Luck!

[camlex]

I will replace tomorrow.

FYI

I do change PCV every 15,000 mile, which falls @ 355,000. I think i am at 352,800.

Thank you.

[camlex]

After replacing PCV and Hose, oil leak slow down. That area is still wet but not dripping 2-3 drops over night.

Should change to 10W40?

[George_Jetson]

I'm a little surprised to hear that it has made significant improvement, but I'll have to remember that one. I don't think I would recommend going to thicker oil. These cars have a issue with sludge and a marginal oiling system. The thicker oil would probably reduce circulation in areas that have a buildup of sludge.

[camlex]

Thanks George,

The oil leak has slowed down, but it is still there. My mechanic advised me to leave it alone. He requested that I keep an eye on the oil level. He quoted me $700 for rear main.

Do you think that if I'm driving long distance, the rear main seal will break and I will lose all the oil?

Thanks,

[George_Jetson]

I would not be the least bit concerned about the rear main. The leak will slowly continue to get worse, just get a pan for your driveway and you be fine. Of course checking the oil is always good advice, each time you fill up should be fine.

[camlex]

Today, I was performing oil change @355K. I don't see any oil drops. Looks to me it's fix byself.

All i did is change PCV hose, because it was loose under intake(12 Year heat). spay lots of TB cleaner in that hose while car is on and pcv out. Hear vacuum and installed new pcv with new gromet.

Thanks for your all helps.

[TnLex]

Today, I was performing oil change @355K. I don't see any oil drops. Looks to me it's fix byself.

All i did is change PCV hose, because it was loose under intake(12 Year heat). spay lots of TB cleaner in that hose while car is on and pcv out. Hear vacuum and installed new pcv with new gromet.

Thanks for your all helps.

Are you sure that you don't have a leaking valve cover gasket? I just don't see how the PCV valve/hose would have a drastic affect on a rear main leak (but it could sure change the leak rate on the rear valve cover gasket).

Glad your leak went away though! :)