topendusa Posted June 22, 2008 Posted June 22, 2008 Default 92 sc400 Just purchased with problems Hello guys, I just joined the lexus family. I am coming to you from Honda However, I am having some issues. I have been searching the forums to see what the cause of my problems could be. Here are my issues. The car is laggy. When I stump the throttle it revs up, but pulls slowly. When I first got the car it only had one coil wire plugged up, so naturally I purchased some wires and put the coil wire on. I haven't replaced all the plugs yet, because the guy I got it from said that he had just put them on and they look fairly new. After plugging the coil up. It wasn't too much better. So, I figured that the cats where clogged. So, I had new cats installed today. While I was at it, I had the middle resonator taken out and created a true dual exhaust. After all this is done, the car sounds different, but still laggy. I plan on changing all the plugs tomorrow along with the wires. Although the plugs are fairly new, due to the coil not being plugged up, they make be fouled out. I also, have new distributor caps and rotors coming. I am new to the lexus/toyota world, but I now the car is suppose to pull a whole lot harder than it is now, I think. correct me if I am wrong. Well according to the jolt I received from the coils while the car was running, leads me to think that it's not the coils. When I pull the coil on the passenger side the car won't start, but it started when i pull the plug on the coil on the driver side. Since both coils shocked me, I assummed it was the distributor cap and rotor on the driver side not good. So, I pulled a plug wire and stuck a screw driver in it to try and see it arc...nothing. So, now I think it is the dizzy cap and rotor, so I ordered both dizzy caps and rotors. Hopefully this cures my problem. So, I had the cats replaced and finally figured out why it was running on only 4 cylinders. The rotor in one of the distributors had broke all up. I replaced both caps and rotors and while I was at it, I installed the KN filter kit. I thought things were fixed, but when i start the car it idles at 2500-3000rpms. I thought it was the MAF, so I got one from the junkyard, but it threw the same codes. Which are: 24-Intake air temp sensor 25-Air-fuel ratio lean malfunction 31-Air flow meter signal My next steps are to purchase another MAF and replace all the O2 Sensors which I have already ordered. What do you guys think is going on?
dcfish Posted June 22, 2008 Posted June 22, 2008 anyone? Have you reset the ECU ? Welcome to the club
topendusa Posted June 22, 2008 Author Posted June 22, 2008 anyone? Have you reset the ECU ? Welcome to the club No I haven't. How do I do that?
topendusa Posted June 22, 2008 Author Posted June 22, 2008 anyone? Have you reset the ECU ? Welcome to the club Thanks for the welcome.
topendusa Posted June 23, 2008 Author Posted June 23, 2008 Well I installed the o2 sensors today and it cleared the code 25. However the car still idles at 2000rpms and I am still throwing codes 24 (Intake air temp sensor signal) and 31 (Airflow meter signal). Any recommendations?
topendusa Posted June 25, 2008 Author Posted June 25, 2008 Replaced the MAF today and it still idles at 3000rpms. I tried running the codes, but all I get now is continuous flashing from the engine light and O/D light. I guess that means no codes. Anymore ideas on what I should do, I have ran out of options to try on my end.
alanluck Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 Replaced the MAF today and it still idles at 3000rpms. I tried running the codes, but all I get now is continuous flashing from the engine light and O/D light. I guess that means no codes. Anymore ideas on what I should do, I have ran out of options to try on my end. Disconnect the battery for 90 seconds, it will reset the ECU. I might even err on the side of caution and leave it disconnected for five minutes.
topendusa Posted June 25, 2008 Author Posted June 25, 2008 Replaced the MAF today and it still idles at 3000rpms. I tried running the codes, but all I get now is continuous flashing from the engine light and O/D light. I guess that means no codes. Anymore ideas on what I should do, I have ran out of options to try on my end. Disconnect the battery for 90 seconds, it will reset the ECU. I might even err on the side of caution and leave it disconnected for five minutes. I left it disconnected all night long before putting on the replacement parts.
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