topendusa

Disconnect the battery for 90 seconds, it will reset the ECU. I might even err on the side of caution and leave it disconnected for five minutes. I left it disconnected all night long before putting on the replacement parts.

Replaced the MAF today and it still idles at 3000rpms. I tried running the codes, but all I get now is continuous flashing from the engine light and O/D light. I guess that means no codes. Anymore ideas on what I should do, I have ran out of options to try on my end.

Nevermind. got my answer

Well I installed the o2 sensors today and it cleared the code 25. However the car still idles at 2000rpms and I am still throwing codes 24 (Intake air temp sensor signal) and 31 (Airflow meter signal). Any recommendations?

Have you reset the ECU ? Welcome to the club Thanks for the welcome.

Have you reset the ECU ? Welcome to the club No I haven't. How do I do that?

anyone?

Default 92 sc400 Just purchased with problems Hello guys, I just joined the lexus family. I am coming to you from Honda However, I am having some issues. I have been searching the forums to see what the cause of my problems could be. Here are my issues. The car is laggy. When I stump the throttle it revs up, but pulls slowly. When I first got the car it only had one coil wire plugged up, so naturally I purchased some wires and put the coil wire on. I haven't replaced all the plugs yet, because the guy I got it from said that he had just put them on and they look fairly new. After plugging the coil up. It wasn't too much better. So, I figured that the cats where clogged. So, I had new cats installed today. While I was at it, I had the middle resonator taken out and created a true dual exhaust. After all this is done, the car sounds different, but still laggy. I plan on changing all the plugs tomorrow along with the wires. Although the plugs are fairly new, due to the coil not being plugged up, they make be fouled out. I also, have new distributor caps and rotors coming. I am new to the lexus/toyota world, but I now the car is suppose to pull a whole lot harder than it is now, I think. correct me if I am wrong. Well according to the jolt I received from the coils while the car was running, leads me to think that it's not the coils. When I pull the coil on the passenger side the car won't start, but it started when i pull the plug on the coil on the driver side. Since both coils shocked me, I assummed it was the distributor cap and rotor on the driver side not good. So, I pulled a plug wire and stuck a screw driver in it to try and see it arc...nothing. So, now I think it is the dizzy cap and rotor, so I ordered both dizzy caps and rotors. Hopefully this cures my problem. So, I had the cats replaced and finally figured out why it was running on only 4 cylinders. The rotor in one of the distributors had broke all up. I replaced both caps and rotors and while I was at it, I installed the KN filter kit. I thought things were fixed, but when i start the car it idles at 2500-3000rpms. I thought it was the MAF, so I got one from the junkyard, but it threw the same codes. Which are: 24-Intake air temp sensor 25-Air-fuel ratio lean malfunction 31-Air flow meter signal My next steps are to purchase another MAF and replace all the O2 Sensors which I have already ordered. What do you guys think is going on?