92 Ac Problem

[Edchantry]

hey, so I bought a 1992 LS400, and when I bought it the dealer said all I needed to do was get the AC re-charged... I assumed it would be more. but none the less I bought the car. I took it to get it recharged, and I needed a retrofit kit. I bought it, had it installed, and not 4 days later the AC wasnt cold. I took it back. they checked everything they could, and found a 2nd valve, they fixed said valve and filled it again. once again. great and cold for 3-4 days, then back to warm air. I took it back, and they couldn't find a leak anywhere! my mechanic said it must have been the evaporator, so I had them order it, and when he went to install it, he said my evap was in GREAT condition. he said he's out of options. so I've come here. because I really don't want to take it to a Lexus Dealership and have them charge me 5,000 just to tell me I need a new car or something lol

so if any of you have ANY suggestions. PLEASE help!!! it's getting warm!

[eatingupblacktop]

First of all, whenever a shop replaces a part and doesn't fix the problem, have them re-install the old part (always ask the shop to keep the part that's been replaced) and have them reimburse you, otherwise you'll be playing and paying into their guessing game. Next, if your shop is out of ideas already, don't go back there. A simple test for an a/c leak is to add dye to the refrigerant in order to trace the leak. If they haven't suggested this, you're in the wrong shop. A/C leaks can happen vitually anywhere in the system - compressor, evaporator, condensor, hoses, etc). You can wind up replacing almost the whole system using their approach. LS's have a known issue with the compressor. So I would start checking there. But get that trace test done for sure.

[RFeldes]

Usually, the high pressure hose under the compressor fails on these models. Hard to detect as it is underneath the compressor. Find someone with a leak detector. Make sure he or she scans under the compressor.

[Blake_batonrouge]

I have to say, my '91 LS 400 has NO problems keeping me cool here in Louisiana actually most of the times I have to turn it down. I also noticed the sticker stating I had the R-134 conversion. Was that done on your LS?

[Edchantry]

First of all, whenever a shop replaces a part and doesn't fix the problem, have them re-install the old part (always ask the shop to keep the part that's been replaced) and have them reimburse you, otherwise you'll be playing and paying into their guessing game. Next, if your shop is out of ideas already, don't go back there. A simple test for an a/c leak is to add dye to the refrigerant in order to trace the leak. If they haven't suggested this, you're in the wrong shop. A/C leaks can happen vitually anywhere in the system - compressor, evaporator, condensor, hoses, etc). You can wind up replacing almost the whole system using their approach. LS's have a known issue with the compressor. So I would start checking there. But get that trace test done for sure.

yea, they havent charged me a dime as of yet... well they charged me for the retro fit kit... but other than that everything has been free. he has added the dye multiple times and has tried to detect the leak, and cant find it, but I will take it back and ask about the condenser. thanks!

[izzy300]

Usually, the high pressure hose under the compressor fails on these models. Hard to detect as it is underneath the compressor. Find someone with a leak detector. Make sure he or she scans under the compressor.

I have heard this, too. Also, it would be quite hard to see the leak even if dye is used, as it will be below the compressor. I would probly try having them jack the car up for the leak-down test and look under the car for the bubbly :D Good luck, man

[Edchantry]

so I took it to my mechanic, and he looked at it for a good hour and a half looking for ANY leaks, and he couldn't find one, I went to the dealership close by, and they said it would be around 300 dollars just too look at it! im not prepared for that, so if theres ANY other suggestions, PLEASE share!

Usually, the high pressure hose under the compressor fails on these models. Hard to detect as it is underneath the compressor. Find someone with a leak detector. Make sure he or she scans under the compressor.

[eatingupblacktop]

I'm guessing your mechanic checked the compressor and high pressure pipe.

If you aren't willing to pony up what the dealer has quoted, you can ask a

Toyota dealer what they would charge to look at it. Aside from a dealer,

you might try a rad shop that does a/c. I used one to replace a rad in my

Volvo that cost me about half of what the Volvo dealer wanted. One of

the mechanics I knew at the dealership later told me the rad was of

better quality than the Volvo oem and asked me where I got it.

[VBdenny]

I had mine retrofitted for R-134 at a local Honda dealer. Cost me a shade over $300. The A/C works great, ice cold. I would first suspect a leak. If you had gauges, you could confirm the loss easily. Since most people don't have a set handy, nor want to take the time to learn to read them, there is an easy way for you to check. Open the hold a see if the compressor is running. When they are low charge, the compressor will cycle which is a pretty good indicator of insufficient charge. Add a can of R-134 and see if it makes the compressor run continuously.. You can buy the stuff and a connection hose at autoparts store and usually Walmart. One VERY strong word of caution: Look up on here and make sure you know which service port you are connecting into. If you accidently connect it to the high pressure side, the can will explode.

Now, probably not, but just ammunition for you should you need it. A worst case scenario: The compressor oil used in R-12 systems and R-134a systems in not compatible.The sytem must have multiple vacuum draws and be purged with nitrogen prior to adding the new refrigerant. The other portion of the job involves replacing the valves on the service ports. If those grease monkeys working on you car didn't know what they were doing and just mixed them, well... I guess at that point you'll need a lawyer and a mechanic. Some places are sneaky as snakes, they will lie, cheat and deceive when cornered.

Probably a simple leak, I think all the older cars leak a little all the time. Just strange to have it occur after the retrofut. Good luck

[erg1948]

I had a similar problem in my '90 LS. Mine had not been converted to R134 yet, but I don't think that is relevant. After a recharge, the AC would work for awhile then start blowing warm air. My terminology is going to fail me, so be patient. My leak turned out to be inside the car's (evaporator?) enclosure, inside the car. The leak was not visible without disassembling the case. It was not the (evaporator?) core itself that leaked, rather it was a small part attached to it. It was a sort of valve (expansion valve?). Sorry, this has been about 5 years ago and I cannot remember the part names. Hope it helps, though.

Gene

[eatingupblacktop]

Probably a simple leak, I think all the older cars leak a little all the time. Just strange to have it occur after the retrofut. Good luck

Not sure what's normal, but in over 5 years of checking the refrigerant level annually and using the a/c every summer all summer long (no idling), I haven't had to top up at all.

Seals and O-rings are also another possible source of leaking. I would visually inspect all joints and connections for traces of the dye. Another suggestion for what shop to use, find a nearby AAA recommended shop that has experience with the LS. Wherever you go, make sure you let them know what's been done/tested to date. Let us know how you make out.

[Alexander the o.k.]

If your mechanic can't find the leak with dye, tell him to try the soap bubble test.

Hell, you could do that one yourself!

[Edchantry]

hey, so I bought a 1992 LS400, and when I bought it the dealer said all I needed to do was get the AC re-charged... I assumed it would be more. but none the less I bought the car. I took it to get it recharged, and I needed a retrofit kit. I bought it, had it installed, and not 4 days later the AC wasnt cold. I took it back. they checked everything they could, and found a 2nd valve, they fixed said valve and filled it again. once again. great and cold for 3-4 days, then back to warm air. I took it back, and they couldn't find a leak anywhere! my mechanic said it must have been the evaporator, so I had them order it, and when he went to install it, he said my evap was in GREAT condition. he said he's out of options. so I've come here. because I really don't want to take it to a Lexus Dealership and have them charge me 5,000 just to tell me I need a new car or something lol

so if any of you have ANY suggestions. PLEASE help!!! it's getting warm!

so I fixed it!!! thanks for all your help! after taking my car from place to place, I decided to just go to Auto Zone and see what they had, they had a seperate can of plastic/metal AC leak sealer, I bought it (29.99) and put it in my AC port, then charged it up, my Lexus is now back to what it should be! COMFORTABLE!!! I can get my car to 65 degrees when it's 100 out... it's great! once again! THANKS!

[Alexander the o.k.]

Congrats ed, and thanks very much for the update. It's interesting, yet pretty tough to diagnose correctly over the net, so when folks post back the solution (which rarely happens) it helps everyone out. (hint hint ). ;)

What was the name of the product?

Do let us know if things change...

Thanks!