Light Are Bad !

[Gtcar]

i had my 2001 lexus RX300 from day one and now i have

The Trac Off - VSC - Check light ON all the time. i try take out the EFI FUSE still on. then the battery came off for 5m and then came back on. Also the only this i could take off is Over Drive. <_<

[KBRX330]

How you go? Get to dealer to get to fix... :P

[Gtcar]

i just came back from auto zone and they gave me two codes that are come up

P1135

P1155

[code58]

i just came back from auto zone and they gave me two codes that are come up

P1135

P1155

Hi Gtar- Your 1st. post is hard to understand. Did you actually unhook the battery? For how long? I would try unhooking it again for maybe 20-30 min. Then have it read again if the ce light comes on again. Those two codes refer to the heater being bad in both the front a/f ratio sensors. (R&L- in the exhaust just beyond -after the exhaust manifolds) Not real likely they both went bad at once. There is a way to check them with a DVM, as they are pretty expensive you don't want to replace them if you don't have to. Let us know how it goes.- Roger

[lenore]

I believe the heater circuits are wired in series, so if one is bad they will both read bad. Only way to tell is to ohm them out individually by disconnecting the plugs and measuring.

[code58]

I believe the heater circuits are wired in series, so if one is bad they will both read bad. Only way to tell is to ohm them out individually by disconnecting the plugs and measuring.

Hi Lenore- I see you on F-150 online as I am also a F-150 owner. The heaters aren't wired in series as that is the reason for the P1135 and the P1155 tc's. The 1135 being rear sens. and the 1155 being front sens. When my DIL's RX threw the P1135 code the car was in Seattle for an extended time and I had to figure it out without the car here. When I ultimately figured out what was going on I told her to go ahead and drive it, it wouldn't hurt it , and I went ahead and fixed it when the car was back down here. I did ultimately replace both sensors because the car had to go back to Seattle again for an extended time and I didn't want her to have trouble so far from home. But the replacement of the rear sensor did deal with the CE light. When I dissected the defective sensor , sure enough, the heater wire was broken. I don't necessarily think that is his problem because I still say it is UNLIKELY they both broke at the same time. As you said an ohm check of the heater contacts on the plug will tell the story. Trust he lets us know what the problem was when he finds it.

[lenore]

Yes that is me on the ford site, somewhere I read they were in series, but when I looked at the wiring diagrams it show them separately. the resistance should be 11 to 16 ohms however.

[code58]

Yes that is me on the ford site, somewhere I read they were in series, but when I looked at the wiring diagrams it show them separately. the resistance should be 11 to 16 ohms however.

Hi Lenore- I believe the A/F sens. ratio resistance should be .8-1.4 ohms. The oxy.sens.ratio, at least in my factory Lexus manual is showing 11-16 ohms. I just coincidently checked the ohms on the good front sens.(B2 S1) that I had removed when I replaced them on my DIL's RX, this afternoon, and it read 1.5 ohms. I have noticed 1 thing about Lexus paramaters- sometimes when you check a part and it is completely outside of the paramaters, it may still work perfectly fine . I found that more than once when working on her car. The IAC completely failed in typical Lexus fashion- I removed it and cleaned it and it worked great (idled perfectly) but I test everything before I cleaned it and the electrical servo tested bad (59 ohms in one direction and 2 in the other). I chose to replace it even though it functioned perfectly because of the crisis situation that had the car in Seattle for several months. Don't know what to make of those type of situations (it wasn't the only one). Thanks for your posts Lenore. Y/t- Roger

[lenore]

I was talking about the heater resistance. not the other two leads, you are correct on the other leads resistance.

I may have look at the oxygen sensor reading also, I know the Air fuel sensors are different.

[code58]

I was talking about the heater resistance. not the other two leads, you are correct on the other leads resistance.

I may have look at the oxygen sensor reading also, I know the Air fuel sensors are different.

Hi again Lenore- Yes, that is the heater resistance- .8-1.4 ohms on the 2 black wires (heater wires), although mine tested 1.5 ohms on the good a/f sens. that I took out. Although it does have 100k+ on it. LOL Y/T- Roger :)