Oil Change Lexus Dealer Versus Toyota Dealer - 5k Or 3k

[SAFRO.COM]

man I am sorry, I was kinda cranky today, now I am doing good. didnt know about this stuff before. SOunds like you just have a good reputation for oil recommendations. My fault im sorry.

[camlex]

I am back and have one more question.

Before that, let me tell you the study.

in my car i used 5W30 Castrol synthetic blend. I do change every 5,000 with toyota filter.

car has 305,600 miles. after 3000 miles i loose 1/2 qts oil and i have to add another 1/2qts @4000.

somebody mentioned to me to go with 10W40.

I know car has lots of milage. there is anything i can do to stop burning oil. will synthetic oil solve this problem

please guide me.

[mburnickas]

Sw-

No I do value the property & I know 100% what is going on. That is why I utilized UOA since I value my engines more so then using a manual that is so general it is not funny. You on the other hand are using guidelines (aka manual) that have little merit on oil duration or even design. That is again a fact since you do not test it. How do you really know what is going on with engine and oil. You clearly do not.

Yup, 90% of this forum, you included, do not understand UOA and are using the manual as proof. 100 to 1 you are wasting resources since you are blindly going at it using this method. As I stated years ago on here, prove my wrong spend the whopping $18 to $20 and test the oil. 1000 to 1 if you are doing 5K drain you are wasting $$$$, time etc. I tell anyone on this forum to spend the large amount of money on a test. I think in like 4-years here, only seen (1) person post a UOA. That person is light years ahead of the curve.

So you are using $25 oil or a complete oil change for $25? Maybe you should drain sooner then 5K miles but hay that is you. For me I would not buy your car since a manual, in my eyes, does not guarantee anything (does not show HOW the car/engine is doing). My UOA's guarantees lots; it shows my engine performance, show trends and oil history (and service life left). Notice the order in which I post it (hint hint). So you send $75 for 15,000 miles when I spent over 30% less and WILL have better numbers and less time driving to a dealer to drain, in your case (wasting time and gas), etc? Sounds like a plan. My time is worth $$$ and I do not want to waste it on a car, used oil, at a dealer etc.

So you are playing the scare tactics now with warranty? Come on SW. You are sounding like monarch now since "I have maintained...." You are falling for the recommend deal or think recommended means mandates; which is not correct. I will put more faith in UOA, engine oil wise then a manual that is flat-out BS. Plus if Lexus is as good as people hope, Lexus's MTBF, FOS, quality, etc will be built into the manuals/designs.

Wrong SW. I am stating that people, you included, time and time again do not understand engine performance / oil longevity. I also have had several cars go over 300K using dino oil but it came at a huge price too. People clearly do not understand UOA since they think the primary reason is oil performance; which is 100% wrong. This is not attacking you or other members it is called, posting (directly) that people are not correct. I am not someone who is new to this field or someone pushing a product. In fact this is nothing new in the UOA field (about 40 years old). People are using a manual as fact when you do not understand HOW these miles are even derived (manuals are based little on engine design). Good, you make excuses to other mods and that means what to me? People can post on oil (anything) but do not post incorrect data too since I will post right behind them. Postings like you HAVE to drain at 5K miles, manuals says so or "as you car gets older", black oil means it is dirty, etc is well, not correct. Again people you need to step-up to the plate and spend the huge amount of $20 to not guess on these items and more. An UOA for example add WAY more value then anything stated in the "manual".

I am down right "direct" to people posting BS that use a manual as god when it is not even close to real world data or direct relationship to YOUR own car. If I used a manual for oil drains I am WASTING $$$$, wasting time, waste resources, wear on engine components etc…do I need to go onward. If people cannot understand a little $18 dumb-downed oil test, wow all I can say is wow. I give DIRECT answers but people time and time again, THINK a manual gets them a good feeling when that is all it gets (nothing more or even provides anything on MTBF). It does not prove accurate data on your engine oil or cars performance. Lexus WANTS you in the dealer to make money, not help the car. If they wanted to the car to last then would not make YOU pay for 75% of the "checks" they do. If someone has all these slips form a lexus dealer, you are paying for their building lease. It is a joke on what they charge since you can do it, quicker, cheaper and better then them. I can change spark plugs faster then driving to my dealer alone!

In your case (5K drains), you could have problems since you have no idea, wasting oil that is drained too soon but you feel good. I could tell you , in your case an injector (example) will be failing LONG before you even know it or ever know it at all ; but a simple $20 test would be priceless. And it would tell you longer before any issues. But if you blindly use your 5K drain, you will never know it, WILL have more wear in engines, and might have serious issue long after your warranty is over. But you feel good on using the manual. That is not a good way to run an engine since you are going at it blind. I am the only one that knows REALLY what is going on with my engine and my oil in this thread (factoid) and 99.9% sure this forum. Again people will play the scare BS on warranty since they do not understand something. Makes sense to me. I have yet to see an engine fail when people use UOA's.

PS. I have posted before about this issue with other mods that cannot back it up other then a manual. Good supporting non-technical data. That is not supporting anything; it is a legal fluff factor. That is like throwing out a 1-gallon of milk since it feels good or the date is expired when you have no idea on the condition of it. It is called wasting $$$. That is my point in my UOA postings. People are using a manual as a fact when it is correct for a paper trail but not integral to engine oil condition, performace, etc. Paper trails are just that.

[mburnickas]

I am back and have one more question.

Before that, let me tell you the study.

in my car i used 5W30 Castrol synthetic blend. I do change every 5,000 with toyota filter.

car has 305,600 miles. after 3000 miles i loose 1/2 qts oil and i have to add another 1/2qts @4000.

somebody mentioned to me to go with 10W40.

I know car has lots of milage. there is anything i can do to stop burning oil. will synthetic oil solve this problem

please guide me.

Use the manual as a guide since they know all. I cannot help you.

[camlex]

Thank you.

[camlex]

mburnickas,

Thanks again, i am thinking to go from syn.blend(Castrol) to amsoil full syn + EA057 filter.

Hope that comination will good for 15,000 miles.

which syn. you use.?

Thanks,

I like Amsoil 0w-20 (with Lc20) since my engine loves it. I had used there 5w-30 which ran okay but the other is better. I would go 10,000 miles and test. Then do 3 more tests at 10,000 miles and then you have a baseline. Then you got it.

if you don't mind, please explain.

Thanks,

[mburnickas]

if you don't mind, please explain.

Thanks,

I will PM you on this issue. I do not want to stray from the beloved manual here here!

[camlex]

no problem.

Understood.

Thank you

[SW03ES]

Why do you always have to play the victim? Its pathetic. At no point did I ever discount what you do, I just say I do it differently and it doesn't make me wrong. For the record I am completely aware of what a UOA is. I simply have no interest in getting one. Never needed one before.

I also find it funny that you're preaching to me about saving money when you advocated replacing yellowed headlights instead of cleaning them at a cost of several thousand dollars because "the car was so expensive, its silly to complain about the cost of the lights" and "your time is too valuable to be bothered polishing them".

This is pointless. Another oil thread closed.