DS1 Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 The transmission in my 99 es 300 requires high rpm to shift when cold. When warm no problems. Does anybody know whats causing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homemechanic Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 1. Low on fluid 2. Using the wrong fluid 3. Fluid is thick when cold, so runs better when car is hot. I had the same problem after rebuilding the tranny. Delay/high RPM shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear when cold. Fluid level looked fine. After adding another 1/3 of a quart, that shift problem went away. Now the fluid level is a little overfilled when hot, but not a problem at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexusfreak Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right? One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right?One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change. I have the same thing for about 2 miles. It decreased when using Amsoil ATF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexusfreak Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 I have the same thing for about 2 miles. It decreased when using Amsoil ATF. Agreed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 I have the same thing for about 2 miles. It decreased when using Amsoil ATF. Agreed. Toyota t4 atf fluid. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexusfreak Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 Toyota t4 atf fluid. ;) Ever tried the Amsoil ATF dc? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homemechanic Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right?One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change. I don't think the design is the issue. the camry model doesn't have this problem. Amsoil ATF does help a bit. you will notice the difference if u drive in snow area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Toyota t4 atf fluid. ;) Ever tried the Amsoil ATF dc? :) No, And I wouldn't. :D T4 Look@my avitar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Amsoil ATF is spec for T4. Use it and be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Amsoil ATF is spec for T4. Use it and be happy. I drain and fill(2 qts.) the tranny every oil change. I won't and don't need to flush and fill, And I won't mix fluids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I drain and fill(2 qts.) the tranny every oil change. I won't and don't need to flush and fill, And I won't mix fluids. Not arguing, but are you crazy? This is really about inline with people draining there engine oil at like 5K miles or below without anything to support there process. Why would you drain that soon and so little? Unless you are doing longer drain like myself, you are wasting money here along with resources and time. Put in Amsoil go 25K and the fluid will last 2 to 3 times that. I have used Amsoil in trannys that are prone to rebuilds and after 50K miles on the fluid it was like new (color and smell). I would never flush but drain and fill, yes. Without draining your TBN will still be low and TAN much higher. Nevermind the OXD and NOX in there. Nor higher then "drain" wear #'s. That is like draining your coolant reservoir and never draining the complete rad… Toyota fluids are over pimped, over priced fluid and not worth $%^&. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I drain and fill(2 qts.) the tranny every oil change. I won't and don't need to flush and fill, And I won't mix fluids. Not arguing, but are you crazy? This is really about inline with people draining there engine oil at like 5K miles or below without anything to support there process. Why would you drain that soon and so little? Unless you are doing longer drain like myself, you are wasting money here along with resources and time. Put in Amsoil go 25K and the fluid will last 2 to 3 times that. I have used Amsoil in trannys that are prone to rebuilds and after 50K miles on the fluid it was like new (color and smell). I would never flush but drain and fill, yes. Without draining your TBN will still be low and TAN much higher. Nevermind the OXD and NOX in there. Nor higher then "drain" wear #'s. That is like draining your coolant reservoir and never draining the complete rad… Toyota fluids are over pimped, over priced fluid and not worth $%^&. No, I am not crazy, This is my choice and have never had a problem...Preventive maintenance And Confident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I agree it is your choice and you will not have a problem. My point is where is the line in savings vs performace vs actual fluid life?. Again, you know me, without an UOA I would not be too confident here. Then again T4 fluid is not the best so you might have to do that. But need an UOA to support this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I drain and fill(2 qts.) the tranny every oil change. I won't and don't need to flush and fill, And I won't mix fluids. Not arguing, but are you crazy? This is really about inline with people draining there engine oil at like 5K miles or below without anything to support there process. Why would you drain that soon and so little? Unless you are doing longer drain like myself, you are wasting money here along with resources and time. Put in Amsoil go 25K and the fluid will last 2 to 3 times that. I have used Amsoil in trannys that are prone to rebuilds and after 50K miles on the fluid it was like new (color and smell). I would never flush but drain and fill, yes. Without draining your TBN will still be low and TAN much higher. Nevermind the OXD and NOX in there. Nor higher then "drain" wear #'s. That is like draining your coolant reservoir and never draining the complete rad… Toyota fluids are over pimped, over priced fluid and not worth $%^&. I used Castrol domestic car Transmission fluid which meets Dex-III requirements. Every 15,000 drain and refill. next 15,000 i takes to mechanic, who replace filter and refill with my fluid. Presently I have 297,750 miles and runs like new car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I agree it is your choice and you will not have a problem. My point is where is the line in savings vs performace vs actual fluid life?. Again, you know me, without an UOA I would not be too confident here. Then again T4 fluid is not the best so you might have to do that. But need an UOA to support this. I am always staying ahead of the ball..........Always have............I respect your opinion, My $ and My Lex, If I could It would be in showroom condition all the time. I prefer to keep it as close to factory as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 [quote name='mburnickas' post='283961' date='Jan 22 I used Castrol domestic car Transmission fluid which meets Dex-III requirements. Every 15,000 drain and refill. next 15,000 i takes to mechanic, who replace filter and refill with my fluid. Presently I have 297,750 miles and runs like new car. Dude, use Amsoil and drain every 25 to 50K and have plenty FOS! Every 15K is nuts in my eyes. Anything else you are GUESSING without UOS's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I am always staying ahead of the ball..........Always have............I respect your opinion, My $ and My Lex, If I could It would be in showroom condition all the time. I prefer to keep it as close to factory as possible. As noted before, you are not ahead of the ball without UOA..you are guessing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I am always staying ahead of the ball..........Always have............I respect your opinion, My $ and My Lex, If I could It would be in showroom condition all the time. I prefer to keep it as close to factory as possible. As noted before, you are not ahead of the ball without UOA..you are guessing... Again, I respect your opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowa Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Hi, I am going to buy a 1996 Lexus ES300 with 177k mileage (the asking price is $3,500). Would anyone mind to give me some advice whether to take this car or not? I wish to compare this one with the Nissan Sentra 02, 100K mileage and the asked price is $4,000? Very appreciate for your consideration. Best, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexusfreak Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 You might want to give us some more details on the car......1 owner, condition, service records etc? It's hard for someone to recommend something (especially a used car) when they have next to no details.....the more detailed info the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Hi,I am going to buy a 1996 Lexus ES300 with 177k mileage (the asking price is $3,500). Would anyone mind to give me some advice whether to take this car or not? I wish to compare this one with the Nissan Sentra 02, 100K mileage and the asked price is $4,000? Very appreciate for your consideration. Best, If you like it buy it. What I have found on Forums is, like most, people think what they want and they all have different values. Some are based on facts and some are out ther a$$. So again, go by what you feel..since you know more about it then us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DS1 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right?One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change. I don't think the design is the issue. the camry model doesn't have this problem. Amsoil ATF does help a bit. you will notice the difference if u drive in snow area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sakr4360 Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I was going to start a thread on this cold shift issue but finding this one, others have the same concern. I just picked up a 99 ES300 with 48,000 miles Not to add flame to the pedantic "it's easy to understand that it's your choice of ATF" *BLEEP* match of this thread but... The choice of ATF has absolutely no bearing on how the thing shifts when cold. The determinate is that it is either programmed or temp sensor controlled to keep the revs high when cold. Once something senses over 150 odd degrees F, the trans shifts normally. The rev it when cold design criteria is most logically implemented to get heat into the cats. Now, As I have the same issue, I really don't like that a cold engine, think below zero cold, is forced to run at 3-4000 rpm. Yes, I could let it warm up for 15 minutes but it's a waste of time and fuel. Being of this mentality I drove it slowly at a snails pace of 25 mph until it shifts out of second. Then a little faster until it hits fourth. Ok, my rant is over. Does anyone know if the trans can be reprogrammed for normal at ops temperature? Is there a sensor that can be changed or cheated to get the thing to shift? That is the only possible remedy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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