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1. Low on fluid

2. Using the wrong fluid

3. Fluid is thick when cold, so runs better when car is hot.

I had the same problem after rebuilding the tranny. Delay/high RPM shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear when cold. Fluid level looked fine. After adding another 1/3 of a quart, that shift problem went away. Now the fluid level is a little overfilled when hot, but not a problem at all.

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I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right?

One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change.

:cheers:

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I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right?

One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change.

:cheers:

I have the same thing for about 2 miles. It decreased when using Amsoil ATF.

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I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right?

One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change.

:cheers:

I don't think the design is the issue. the camry model doesn't have this problem. Amsoil ATF does help a bit. you will notice the difference if u drive in snow area.

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I drain and fill(2 qts.) the tranny every oil change. I won't and don't need to flush and fill, And I won't mix fluids.:cheers:

Not arguing, but are you crazy? This is really about inline with people draining there engine oil at like 5K miles or below without anything to support there process.

Why would you drain that soon and so little? Unless you are doing longer drain like myself, you are wasting money here along with resources and time. Put in Amsoil go 25K and the fluid will last 2 to 3 times that. I have used Amsoil in trannys that are prone to rebuilds and after 50K miles on the fluid it was like new (color and smell).

I would never flush but drain and fill, yes. Without draining your TBN will still be low and TAN much higher. Nevermind the OXD and NOX in there. Nor higher then "drain" wear #'s. That is like draining your coolant reservoir and never draining the complete rad…

Toyota fluids are over pimped, over priced fluid and not worth $%^&.

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I drain and fill(2 qts.) the tranny every oil change. I won't and don't need to flush and fill, And I won't mix fluids.:cheers:

Not arguing, but are you crazy? This is really about inline with people draining there engine oil at like 5K miles or below without anything to support there process.

Why would you drain that soon and so little? Unless you are doing longer drain like myself, you are wasting money here along with resources and time. Put in Amsoil go 25K and the fluid will last 2 to 3 times that. I have used Amsoil in trannys that are prone to rebuilds and after 50K miles on the fluid it was like new (color and smell).

I would never flush but drain and fill, yes. Without draining your TBN will still be low and TAN much higher. Nevermind the OXD and NOX in there. Nor higher then "drain" wear #'s. That is like draining your coolant reservoir and never draining the complete rad…

Toyota fluids are over pimped, over priced fluid and not worth $%^&.

No, I am not crazy, This is my choice and have never had a problem...Preventive maintenance :cheers: And Confident.

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I agree it is your choice and you will not have a problem. My point is where is the line in savings vs performace vs actual fluid life?. Again, you know me, without an UOA I would not be too confident here. Then again T4 fluid is not the best so you might have to do that. But need an UOA to support this. :cheers:

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I drain and fill(2 qts.) the tranny every oil change. I won't and don't need to flush and fill, And I won't mix fluids.:cheers:

Not arguing, but are you crazy? This is really about inline with people draining there engine oil at like 5K miles or below without anything to support there process.

Why would you drain that soon and so little? Unless you are doing longer drain like myself, you are wasting money here along with resources and time. Put in Amsoil go 25K and the fluid will last 2 to 3 times that. I have used Amsoil in trannys that are prone to rebuilds and after 50K miles on the fluid it was like new (color and smell).

I would never flush but drain and fill, yes. Without draining your TBN will still be low and TAN much higher. Nevermind the OXD and NOX in there. Nor higher then "drain" wear #'s. That is like draining your coolant reservoir and never draining the complete rad…

Toyota fluids are over pimped, over priced fluid and not worth $%^&.

I used Castrol domestic car Transmission fluid which meets Dex-III requirements.

Every 15,000 drain and refill.

next 15,000 i takes to mechanic, who replace filter and refill with my fluid.

Presently I have 297,750 miles and runs like new car.

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I agree it is your choice and you will not have a problem. My point is where is the line in savings vs performace vs actual fluid life?. Again, you know me, without an UOA I would not be too confident here. Then again T4 fluid is not the best so you might have to do that. But need an UOA to support this.:cheers:

I am always staying ahead of the ball..........Always have............I respect your opinion, My $ and My Lex, If I could It would be in showroom condition all the time. I prefer to keep it as close to factory as possible. :cheers:

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[quote name='mburnickas' post='283961' date='Jan 22

I used Castrol domestic car Transmission fluid which meets Dex-III requirements.

Every 15,000 drain and refill.

next 15,000 i takes to mechanic, who replace filter and refill with my fluid.

Presently I have 297,750 miles and runs like new car.

Dude, use Amsoil and drain every 25 to 50K and have plenty FOS! Every 15K is nuts in my eyes. Anything else you are GUESSING without UOS's!

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I am always staying ahead of the ball..........Always have............I respect your opinion, My $ and My Lex, If I could It would be in showroom condition all the time. I prefer to keep it as close to factory as possible.:cheers:

As noted before, you are not ahead of the ball without UOA..you are guessing...

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I am always staying ahead of the ball..........Always have............I respect your opinion, My $ and My Lex, If I could It would be in showroom condition all the time. I prefer to keep it as close to factory as possible.:cheers:

As noted before, you are not ahead of the ball without UOA..you are guessing...

Again, I respect your opinion :cheers:

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Hi,

I am going to buy a 1996 Lexus ES300 with 177k mileage (the asking price is $3,500). Would anyone mind to give me some advice whether to take this car or not? I wish to compare this one with the Nissan Sentra 02, 100K mileage and the asked price is $4,000?

Very appreciate for your consideration.

Best,

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You might want to give us some more details on the car......1 owner, condition, service records etc? It's hard for someone to recommend something (especially a used car) when they have next to no details.....the more detailed info the better.

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Hi,

I am going to buy a 1996 Lexus ES300 with 177k mileage (the asking price is $3,500). Would anyone mind to give me some advice whether to take this car or not? I wish to compare this one with the Nissan Sentra 02, 100K mileage and the asked price is $4,000?

Very appreciate for your consideration.

Best,

If you like it buy it. What I have found on Forums is, like most, people think what they want and they all have different values. Some are based on facts and some are out ther a$$.

So again, go by what you feel..since you know more about it then us.

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I had this exact complaint on my 2001 ES.....that is normal & is designed that way....you will notice when the car warms up that it's not a concern right?

One suggestion to improve this slightly is to switch to synthetic ATF on your next fluid change.

:cheers:

I don't think the design is the issue. the camry model doesn't have this problem. Amsoil ATF does help a bit. you will notice the difference if u drive in snow area.

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I was going to start a thread on this cold shift issue but finding this one, others have the same concern. I just picked up a 99 ES300 with 48,000 miles

Not to add flame to the pedantic "it's easy to understand that it's your choice of ATF" *BLEEP* match of this thread but...

The choice of ATF has absolutely no bearing on how the thing shifts when cold. The determinate is that it is either programmed or temp sensor controlled to keep the revs high when cold. Once something senses over 150 odd degrees F, the trans shifts normally. The rev it when cold design criteria is most logically implemented to get heat into the cats.

Now, As I have the same issue, I really don't like that a cold engine, think below zero cold, is forced to run at 3-4000 rpm. Yes, I could let it warm up for 15 minutes but it's a waste of time and fuel. Being of this mentality I drove it slowly at a snails pace of 25 mph until it shifts out of second. Then a little faster until it hits fourth. Ok, my rant is over.

Does anyone know if the trans can be reprogrammed for normal at ops temperature? Is there a sensor that can be changed or cheated to get the thing to shift? That is the only possible remedy.

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