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Posted

Well, I think that I'm going to throw in the towel on the strut rods. I used Landar's pictures, and purchased a long breaker bar (3 feet). The bolt behind the shock is in an awkward position. I wasn't sure how to pull that one off. I'm going to take it to a place for an estimate. If the estimate comes back unreasonable, then I'll have to come up with a more creative solution.

Thanks,

Micah


Posted

Well... The mechanic called to say that he couldn't get the cam bolts out! Looks like I'm going to have to order some cam bolts as it'll take cutting them to get them off. The saga continues...

Micah

Posted

Well... The mechanic called to say that he couldn't get the cam bolts out! Looks like I'm going to have to order some cam bolts as it'll take cutting them to get them off. The saga continues...

Micah

Whaaaat? Did he soak 'em in PBblaster or use a torch to heat them up first? Can't imagine them being that corroded down south.

Posted

Don't know if he torched them. I'm takingnit somewhere else. Tonight I soaked them with some penetrating oil. They are corroded, but I wouldn't think they'd be that bad...

Posted

Don't know if he torched them. I'm takingnit somewhere else. Tonight I soaked them with some penetrating oil. They are corroded, but I wouldn't think they'd be that bad...

BRING IT DOWN TO DALLAS AND WE WILL FIXIT.

edit: bring it down and my nephew will fix it.

at 77, I do the talking, and he does the work. my right hand joints quit working.

Posted

Billy,

I would love to do that! My wife would jump at the chance to go to Covenant again, as would I. But I might be in :chairshot: if I took a 5 hour drive with her for car work. (Honestly, I'd rather pay you and your nephew though as I know the money would go to good causes). I truly appreciate the offer.

I must confess that I misunderstood the original mechanic. I took the car to a machine shop, and they cracked the nuts - and they were on there TIGHT! I called the original mechanic, who said that he had no issue with the nuts, but that the bolt that goes through the bushing was siezed in the bushing and that he was going to have to cut it out. So my misunderstanding was not that he couldn't get the nut off the bolt, but that the bold isn't moving.

Is there anything that I'm missing regarding getting the bolt out? The bushings in the rods are originals, as evidenced by all the little cracks in the rubber. I discovered this was a northern car after purchasing it, so I can see where there could be rust holding it in.

Thanks,

Micah

Posted

keep it soaked and a big hammer, (buy a new bolt before you beat it to death)

here are my boys (54 & 56)

post-5365-0-17749200-1304467908_thumb.jp

Posted

Thanks very much, Billy. I've purchased from Sewell two new bolts, which will hopefully be shipped today. Forgive the silly question, but do you mean tapping the bolt from the stem side to give it a "push" out?

Kids grow up quickly! Looks like the Harley can play nicely with the Yamaha! (I think the one on the left is a Yamaha Star 1600 or 1700 - can't remember which).

Posted

Thanks very much, Billy. I've purchased from Sewell two new bolts, which will hopefully be shipped today. Forgive the silly question, but do you mean tapping the bolt from the stem side to give it a "push" out?

Kids grow up quickly! Looks like the Harley can play nicely with the Yamaha! (I think the one on the left is a Yamaha Star 1600 or 1700 - can't remember which).

Micah, take the two back bolts loose first, drive them up out of their holes so you can manuver the rod around, and knock the front bolt out... and yes it is a 1700.

Posted

Thanks very much, Billy. I've purchased from Sewell two new bolts, which will hopefully be shipped today. Forgive the silly question, but do you mean tapping the bolt from the stem side to give it a "push" out?

Kids grow up quickly! Looks like the Harley can play nicely with the Yamaha! (I think the one on the left is a Yamaha Star 1600 or 1700 - can't remember which).

Micah, It may take a combination of running some penetrating oil along the bolt shaft into the bushing, let it soak overnight, hitting both sides of the bolt with a torch until it is "toasty", then smacking the threaded side hard with a small sledge. Even hit the bolt vertically on both sides(with a punch) to setup shock waves to loosen the hold. Should do the trick. On the other hand, if you have experienced, professional mechanics on the job and they are stumped, it is apparently a very tough situation. Guess they are taking the "sawzall" route. Hard to believe it would come down to that but will give them the benefit of the doubt.

Posted

I'm going to soak the bolt again in penetrating oil per Landar's and Billy's suggestion. Then I'll probably whack it to see if I can help jar it loose. I'll keep you updated. Thanks for the wisdom and insight!

Micah

Posted

I wanted to report back that I had the mechanic install the new rods, after purchasing a couple new camber bolts from Sewell. The strut rods made a significant difference in the way the car rides. I'm impressed. I also had some outer tie rod ends that I had him install (a project that I wasn't getting around to) and the steering feel is noticeably "tighter". Overall, while I'm not too happy about shelling out money for the install, I'm very pleased with the outcome. I have a vibration in the rear of the car at 80 mph or so, so that is either a wheel balance or may be the rear carrier bushings. Thanks again for everyone's insight.

Posted

I am curious as to how the mechanic finally persuaded the bolts to come out of the bushings?

Posted

Hammer and heat. He said he thought he'd destroy the camber bolts if he took them out. Thus he asked if I would order new ones to cover if he had to cut or destroy the ones he removed. He installed the new ones for me.

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