chilkoot Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 distributor rotors- is the blade supposed to to pointing towards the notch in the distributor housing? I could swear that that's how mine were before I removed them, but the pic for step #11 at LexLS has them backwards, with the blade 180 degrees from the dist. housing notch. huh, odd. any thoughts? crankshaft pulley- I used the harmonic balancer pulley removal kit I rented to get it off, but it doesn't have the correct size bolts for reinstallation. I fit the pulley back onto the crank by hand and it seemed to go on all the way with minimal effort, I reinstalled the crank pulley bolt and torqued it down to ~150ft/lb (as high as my torque wrench goes, I will have a shop torque it down for me after I finish to full spec.). Can this cause any problems with the pulley not being seated right? it appears to line up just fine with the drive belt, and appears to be fully seated. I've already got the distributor rotors and caps back on, just need to reinstall the drive belt, ignition wires, fan clutch and engine covers, then i'm done! HUZZAH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Lex Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 There is a raised portion (on the backside of the distributor cap) that fits into the groove on the distributor housing. You shouldn't be able to spin the distributor caps in circles in their housings, if installed correctly. The harmonic balancer tool is only needed for the removal of the pulley, not installation. It's probably already fully seated, just not at proper torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilkoot Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 The LexLS guide says to align the protrusion (i assume he means blade) on the rotor to the timing notch on the camshaft pulley, however I seem to recall it being aligned to the notch on the distributor housing, which makes a lot more sense to me as they bolt on and point to the notch on the dist. housing perfectly when the engine is at TDC. I just wanted to make sure before I fouled my timing. There are two screws, so it wouldn't be able to rotate freely anyways, it's steadily fixed to the cam pulley, but can be flipped 180 degrees. thanks, i'll make sure to get to a mechanic who can torque it down for me. how important is it to replace the o-rings on the water filler housing and water inlet? I inspected them and they looked NEW, so I cleaned up the grooves and reused them. new o-ring didn't come with water pump. That's the only x-factor thus far, and i'm a little worried about it, but I don't want to wait another 4-5 days for shipping for an o-ring to get my car back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Lex Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Those pics from the LEXLS site were actually tooken/sweated by myself. So, any questions you may have should be asked, now. I meant that the distributor rotor should not free-wheel, without the bolts attached. It's possible that the distributor rotors are secured (by the bolts) and still be completely 180 degrees off of correct. How did you clean up the grooves on the o-rings? Who cares if they look new or what not? The gaskets only cost a few dollars...you've already invested plenty of time in your ride...do it the right way, and replace the gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilkoot Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 The o-rings were already clean, they came out looking new. I cleaned the o-ring grooves on the metal pieces with shop towels, they wiped clean. there was no corrosion or anything on the metal. the o-rings were still pliable and soft, and no one in town had them in stock. they have gaskets, but no o-rings. If this takes another 5 days to complete my girlfriend is leaving me, she's already incredibly *BLEEP*ed. I'm almost fully put back together so at this point so I'm going to have to pray. My concern with the distributors was that they weren't flipped 180 degrees, I just wanted to confirm that the blade should be pointing to the notch in the distributor housing, and not towards the notch in the cam pulley as is stated on LexLS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LScott400 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 The manual says "Align the protrusion of the distributor rotor with the groove of the camshaft timing pulley." So it sounds like they are keyed so that they should only go on one way. Is that not the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilkoot Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 nope, there are two screws equidistant from the center of the cam pulley and are lined up so that it can be flipped 180 degrees. the spokes of the cam pulley are smooth except for the two rotor screwholes, the only "grooves" i noticed are on the outside lip of the cam pulley itself, and the inside lip of the distributor housing, both are timing notches. it's gotta be the groove on the distributor housing, there's no other reason for it to exist, and the rotor doesn't point exactly to the cam pulley groove if I flip it around, it's off by about 45 degrees. (blade can be at either 9 or 3 o'clock, cam pulley notch at 1 o'clock and dist. notch at 9 o'clock for the right cam). If I can get a confirmation then perhaps we can have the LexLS guide amended. Also, it states that the drive belt RH idler uses an 8mm hex socket, it is a 10mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LScott400 Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Does the picture for Step 4 in the attachment help? I don't remember this, but it looks like the picture shows the groove being alongside the pulley bolt. distributors.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Lex Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Who cares about which direction the distributor blade points to because it's not going to matter when your car doesn't start. Take a look at the back side of the distributor rotor and there should be a "bump" that matches the shape of the "groove" on the cam sprocket. Take a pic of the rotors and I'll show you what I mean. Yes, the RH idler is held on by a 10mm hex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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