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chilkoot

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Everything posted by chilkoot

  1. Sorry, it's a 93 and I can hear fuel in the rails with the fuel ecu bypassed.
  2. When cold, car will start and idle fine @ ~1100rpm. After a minute or two it stalls. After it stalls it will crank, and fire, but stall instantly once it catches. After doing this a few times it will crank, but wont fire until it's cold again. It's not: Fuel filter (replaced) Fuel pump or ECU (no change with b+ and fp jumped) MAF (no change with MAF unplugged) with heavy throttle while warm it will fire and rev like hell, but sounds ugly and rpms will cut out to near stall and jump back up intermittently, sometimes stalling. I'm thinking the driver side coil dies when it gets hot, anything else it could be? Plugs, wires, caps, rotors all replaced 3 years/20k miles ago during tb/wp job, coils are original @ ~150k miles. Thanks all.
  3. '93 LS400, ~140k miles. Yesterday on my way home from work my TRACoff and CE lights turned on. When I drove to work last night, they were still on. The car does not sound any different, nor have I had any issues with it in quite some time. My only suspicion is the alternator, it has been on the way out for quite a while now, and I suspect it has finally kicked it. However, I used to own a '90 and when the alternator failed it lit up every dash light, not just the CEL and TRACoff. Did they change the dash indications from '90 to '93? Only other thing I can think of that would logically trip those two lights would be the TPS. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  4. Yes. Every time I drive it excites me. Got me in trouble at a traffic stop once. Long story.
  5. with multiple drain and fills the fluid mixes between each drain, so with successive drains you're only removing a declining percentage of the old fluid. with the LexLS flush you're taking old fluid out of the bottom, and adding new to the top (a few quarts at a time), and there is not nearly as much mixing going on. Think of a gatorade cooler filled with old oil. Drain 2 quarts out of it, put 2 quarts in on top. Would you want to shake it before you repeat to get as much old fluid out as possible (no), or just let the new fluid sit on top until all of the old is gone (yes)?
  6. was the CEL on as soon as the engine started after replacing, or after it warmed up?
  7. the t-stat on my '93 failed open. when mine was bad the temp was pegged at the 1/4 mark, without any fluctuation once it was up to heat. Now it sits about 1/8inch above Blake's, right where my '90 did. edit: i'm not so sure I believe that the temp gauge is so inaccurate as to be only a good-or-bad indicator. the temp rises at a steady rate as the car warms up and when my car was being overcooled by the failed thermostat it pegged at the 1/4 mark, it seems to be fairly accurate to me.
  8. as far as I'm aware the signal for a dead alternator is every dash light illuminating, that's the way my old '90 alerted me. trunk wiring loom on the brake light issue perhaps?
  9. it takes 600HP to run a 12 in an LS400? nevermind then.
  10. I think I got both for either $30 or $35 at Autozone, they had them in stock. Very important to note when replacing them: although you may have "dead" hood struts they do still hold a lot of the weight. you'd be very suprised how heavy the hood is with even one of them removed, make sure you properly hold up the hood in BOTH corners before replacing either of the struts.
  11. a 2.4k torque converter would do wonders as well for a chipped & breathing 1uz with crazy big tires, I wouldn't put it out of the realm of possibility. also, I've heard the same things about bosch platinum 4s and LS400s, just not a happy combination. My original plugs went 130,000m before I acquired the car and changed them, they looked the same as the 60k plugs that came out of my '02 Taurus and the car didn't have any ignition problems. Probably could've run another 30k. Denso FTW.
  12. HCV, heater control valve. It leaks slowly enough that it could seem to be evaporating, and will not leave puddles on the ground. It'll cost about $60 on LPO, it's located on the firewall behind the throttle body.
  13. how does that work? if the o-ring in the gas cap fails and needs to be replaced how would there be increased pressure in the tank? logic would say that a bad gas cap seal would be indicated by a lack of pressure. Do they "fail" when they flatten out and begin to seal too well?
  14. I use purolator PureONE filters, used to be shiny metallic blue but are now dull rough goldish yellow. Available at Advance Auto. You can't go wrong with OEM. IIRC, the 1UZ shares a filter with the Toyota V8's.
  15. my engine did not visibly shake with bad mounts. however, replacing them removed the vibration i felt in the seat at ~1800 rpms in park, a slight hesitation at low RPMs as well as the steering wheel and shifter vibration. I never felt anything in drive or any clunking or surging when shifting into or out of park, but all 3 mounts were definitely worn.
  16. there shouldn't be much in the way of maintenance on a 2002. change the oil and trans fluid, keep the power steering and brake fluid fresh and you've got quite some time before you have to worry about becoming a shadetree. If you're feeling adventurous and are very confident in your abilities you can do the timing belt yourself. It's the 90k service and usually the water pump, timing belt idler pulleys, timing belt tensioner, cam seals and crank seal are changed with it, as they are all buried in the same place and failure of any one of could (and probably will) toast your engine. You have to be VERY careful doing this yourself on a 95+, as there's a very specific procedure on setting the engine to TDC and arresting the pulleys during the belt switch. As it's an interference engine if your crank and/or cam pulleys move once the timing belt is removed you risk certain valve damage; it is an interference engine and the cam/crank have to be synced up so that the pistons do not collide with the valves. Plan on it taking a full weekend, 15-20 hours of work for your first attempt. That crank pulley bolt is on tight, you'll need either a chain wrench or an impact gun to get it off. I went the chain wrench route and it worked like a charm. No specific problems I know of in the later models. Maybe a goofy eccentricity here and there, but expect many trouble free miles.
  17. it is a generally accepted fact that synthetic is more likely to expose already bad seals due to its cleaning action, but I have experienced the opposite. when I acquired my LS it had a leaky rear main seal, after its last 10k on the same change of dino oil. I filled it with pennzoil plat 5w-30 before I drove it home and have not lost a drop since. I also ran that in my Taurus with great success. I have nothing but love for the stuff. Even if it does not make that much difference the price/mile to me is highly justified if you love your car.
  18. what would that sound like? I have a whining noise coming from my PS pump/left bank area that I can't pin down. It sounds like a super-large electric motor revving up and down, or an old 4-cyl volvo revving up. Always there when my car is on.
  19. do you know anyone that owns a working 1ls nearby? Swapping parts seems to be the next logical step at this point. that's a very strange issue you have, especially not being ECM related. what else can alter the output of two different ECMs in such a goofy way without affecting normal driving? here's a longshot, maybe it's an arc inside the wiring harness caused by a pin that's not making a completely solid connection. this would also explain the increasing frequency, as arcing destroys delicate wiring.
  20. not too many LS's with aftermarket torque converters, but that is the one thing you can do to significantly improve your launches without a bunch of extra work. There are quite a few more SC400's with TC's. Lextreme is a good place to start reading.
  21. They're a top quality pad, I'm sure they'd be fine in an LS. For my dollar I'd go OEM, just for the peace of mind.
  22. ..."vvt leak" doesn't really mean anything, my best guess is he means the cam seal or valve cover gasket. if this is the case, as long as you keep your oil topped up it won't do any permanent damage. the cam seal is usually changed with the timing belt, so if you're overdue for one just have them all taken care of together. keep an eye on your oil level and get it fixed sooner than later. there's no harm in having it leak slowly if you don't run your engine dry, but there is a slight risk that a small leak could turn into a big leak while you're driving without your knowledge, you run the car dry and then you'd be boned. as far as an engine "lump" leak, again it doesn't mean anything. there's an oil sump, my best guess for this one would be that he means the oil drain pan gasket is leaking. he could also mean your water pump, again replaced with the timing belt as it's in the same area. if any mechanic told you, in exact words, that there was a "VVT leak" and an "engine lump leak" I wouldn't go back to them. ever. was this a Lexus dealer? it sounds like your car is probably due for a timing belt, water pump, cam/crank seal job (don't forget the pulleys!). how many miles does it have?
  23. when I have to have OEM (thermostat, t-belt components, water pump, spark plug wires, distributor caps) I use LexusPartsOnline. For gaskets and/or cheap stuff (my Taurus parts as well, when I had one) I use RockAuto. IIRC, LPO is $45-50 for OEM pads/set. About the same price as your site, but you're guaranteed OEM. On the other hand, I had Akebono ceramics on my Taurus and they were phenomenal. I doubt you'd be disappointed with either of the two, but with my LS I'm going OEM everything, so that's my 2c worth. I've reused my shims in my Taurus and LS with no issues, they're just plates of metal. Clean them up real good, put some lube on the caliper pins and make sure you reinstall the anti-rattle springs (metal V's, easy to miss if they fall out as you're swinging the caliper away) and you're golden
  24. apologies, those four lights are on in the on position, the rest of the dash lights only illuminate for a split second while the key is at the Start position. nothing is illuminated in the acc position.
  25. with the key in the acc position the only dash lights that are on are my seatbelt light, e-brake light, air bag light (short in the dash, always on) and my CEL. However, the CEL goes away when I start my car. Only an airbag light when it's running. All of the other lights in my dash only light up for a second as the car cranks. Is there a reason that the CEL is the only diagnostic light on my dash in the ACC position, or is this unusual behavior?
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