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Posted

Hi,

I just picked up my 2007 IS 250 AWD yesterday. I have the Smokey Granite Metallic. I want to start shopping for a wax to use once the weather here breaks in Cleveland. In the past I have always used Maguires Gold Class. Worked fine on my Subaru's. However, I want to get something that is really going to hold its shine and protect as well. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.


Posted
Hi,

I just picked up my 2007 IS 250 AWD yesterday. I have the Smokey Granite Metallic. I want to start shopping for a wax to use once the weather here breaks in Cleveland. In the past I have always used Maguires Gold Class. Worked fine on my Subaru's. However, I want to get something that is really going to hold its shine and protect as well. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Here are some tips I found online and I ran them past the guys at the detailing shop where I take my GS300. They agreed with them. As for brands, everyone has their favorite but the important thing is the process. Check it out:



  1. Get an automotive clay bar, and run it along every body panel. This pulls out all sorts of nasty road debris that can barely be felt by your hand but does roughen the texture of the paint, leading to a flatter finish.
  2. Polish the car using a good polish. Wax is not polish, so don't confuse the two. Polish will remove oxidation that dulls the paint, and will smooth out all of the deformities that are left over after the clay bar pulls the crap out of the paint.
  3. Wax the car.

Do that once a year and your car's paint will be smoother than a baby's butt and your paint will stay looking great.

I'd give credit to the source but I can't remember where I got it.

Posted

You are going to get a lot of opinions on the best and there is certainly quite a few really good products out there.

I've learned the following from LOC members:

wax usually provides a deeper shine but does not last as long (some recommend waxing every month or so) and a polish will last from 6-9 months but some feel it gives a more plastic look.

I'm in Lima and just detailed my car on Saturday and decided to combine both Zaino (for longetivity) and P21S carnuba wax for a deep shine. I think it turned out really nice.

post-38477-1176946930_thumb.jpg

Posted
Hi,

I just picked up my 2007 IS 250 AWD yesterday. I have the Smokey Granite Metallic. I want to start shopping for a wax to use once the weather here breaks in Cleveland. In the past I have always used Maguires Gold Class. Worked fine on my Subaru's. However, I want to get something that is really going to hold its shine and protect as well. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Here are some tips I found online and I ran them past the guys at the detailing shop where I take my GS300. They agreed with them. As for brands, everyone has their favorite but the important thing is the process. Check it out:



  1. Get an automotive clay bar, and run it along every body panel. This pulls out all sorts of nasty road debris that can barely be felt by your hand but does roughen the texture of the paint, leading to a flatter finish.
  2. Polish the car using a good polish. Wax is not polish, so don't confuse the two. Polish will remove oxidation that dulls the paint, and will smooth out all of the deformities that are left over after the clay bar pulls the crap out of the paint.
  3. Wax the car.

Do that once a year and your car's paint will be smoother than a baby's butt and your paint will stay looking great.

I'd give credit to the source but I can't remember where I got it.

Given that bgpilot's car is brand new and just purchased a few days ago, would he really need to use a clay bar and polish? When the car comes off the assembly line, doesn't Lexus put some kind of protection on the car. You would think so because they and the dealerships would want the cars to look good in order to sell them?? If polish removes oxidation, and his car is new and no oxidation to speak of, does the polish remove some of the top coating ? Wouldn't a good washing and then waxing be appropriate for a brand new car? I'm new and just got my ES at the end of March so I'm interested as well.

thanks.

Posted
Hi,

I just picked up my 2007 IS 250 AWD yesterday. I have the Smokey Granite Metallic. I want to start shopping for a wax to use once the weather here breaks in Cleveland. In the past I have always used Maguires Gold Class. Worked fine on my Subaru's. However, I want to get something that is really going to hold its shine and protect as well. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Here are some tips I found online and I ran them past the guys at the detailing shop where I take my GS300. They agreed with them. As for brands, everyone has their favorite but the important thing is the process. Check it out:



  1. Get an automotive clay bar, and run it along every body panel. This pulls out all sorts of nasty road debris that can barely be felt by your hand but does roughen the texture of the paint, leading to a flatter finish.
  2. Polish the car using a good polish. Wax is not polish, so don't confuse the two. Polish will remove oxidation that dulls the paint, and will smooth out all of the deformities that are left over after the clay bar pulls the crap out of the paint.
  3. Wax the car.

Do that once a year and your car's paint will be smoother than a baby's butt and your paint will stay looking great.

I'd give credit to the source but I can't remember where I got it.

Given that bgpilot's car is brand new and just purchased a few days ago, would he really need to use a clay bar and polish? When the car comes off the assembly line, doesn't Lexus put some kind of protection on the car. You would think so because they and the dealerships would want the cars to look good in order to sell them?? If polish removes oxidation, and his car is new and no oxidation to speak of, does the polish remove some of the top coating ? Wouldn't a good washing and then waxing be appropriate for a brand new car? I'm new and just got my ES at the end of March so I'm interested as well.

thanks.

Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Acid rain, road salt, tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface.

Regardless of how clean you think your paint is there are still bonded contaminants on the paint that you need to remove before pre-wax cleaning, polishing or applying a protection to your paint film surface. Use automotive detailing clay to remove; road dirt / grime, bituminous resin (tar) grease, tire rubber, bug debris, bird excrement, tree resin (sap) rail and brake dust, paint over spray, hard water (mineral) deposits, industrial fall-out (IFO) road salt (small particles become imbedded and bond to the surface)

Posted
Hi,

I just picked up my 2007 IS 250 AWD yesterday. I have the Smokey Granite Metallic. I want to start shopping for a wax to use once the weather here breaks in Cleveland. In the past I have always used Maguires Gold Class. Worked fine on my Subaru's. However, I want to get something that is really going to hold its shine and protect as well. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Best wax or Sealant:

Is there a best? In my opinion- No!

While its true many of the chemicals used in the formulation of car care products are the same (or at least very similar) Having used a variety of different products I can tell one from another and field testing shows that not all have the durability either, some simply out perform others in many categories and react differently when applied to different paint types, colours, or varied paint surface conditions.

Ultimately the best wax or sealant will prove to be the one that best meets its user's objectives. If a product is not working for you experiment until you find one that’s suitable for your needs.

There is no one product that can produce all of the properties for an optically perfect shine, however; for high surface gloss and surface reflectance-a polymer sealant, which also provides durability. Detailing enthusiasts consider shine as only one attribute of a protective wax or sealant. They are equally concerned with; ease of application, resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering.

a) For depth of shine and a ‘wet-look’ - Carnauba wax (also provides a sacrificial and easily renewable barrier against airborne contaminants.

B) For an optically perfect shine, clarity, long term durability and protection apply a polymer sealant (Zaino Z2PRO™ + ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive) to a carefully prepared level, clean paint surface and add a Carnauba wax or Zaino Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal as a (LSP) last step product.

c) The aesthetics of a vehicle appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you.

d) Process not Product -The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to. It really is all dependants upon; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application method and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder. (A detailer’s skill level is also extremely important)

Posted

Thank you all for all of your opinions and advice. I have never clayed a car before. Is it easy and is there any steps that I need to do other than wash the car with a very good PH balanced car wash before I do this process?

Posted

I for one like Zaino, but think it is over-pimped. When you need to play chemist on some of their line, I look for other products.

I will take JW for durability, price, easy of use and plain simple to use. I agree with the above, prep the car right and you could use walfart wax and come out good (for a short time).

Posted

With a brand new car though wouldn't a cleaner wax be sufficient instead of clay baring the car? I am just taking a stab at that. I am still learning. Thanks

Posted
With a brand new car though wouldn't a cleaner wax be sufficient instead of clay baring the car? I am just taking a stab at that. I am still learning. Thanks

no, a cleaner does not make the paint smooth like glass. It does clean but do not pull junk our of paint. Spend the little $$$ and like 30 minutes and feel the diff. Plus it preps the surface better for the next step

Posted
You are going to get a lot of opinions on the best and there is certainly quite a few really good products out there.

I've learned the following from LOC members:

wax usually provides a deeper shine but does not last as long (some recommend waxing every month or so) and a polish will last from 6-9 months but some feel it gives a more plastic look.

The sentiment behind what you're saying is correct, but the terminology is wrong probably because you use Zaino. Zaino calls its Z2 and Z5 products "polishes" but they are not polishes. They are POLYMER SEALANTS. A polish is something that is used to improve paint condition either chemically or abrasively.

Posted

After using a sealant (klasse) for the first time, I only use carnuba wax on rare occasions. The slickness of a sealant blows away carnuba, and it stays so much longer. Super shiny too.

Posted

Eh, I've used plenty of Canruabas that are slicker than sealants and I much prefer the look to that of Klasse, at least on dark colors. Klasse is so finicky to use too...

Posted
Thank you all for all of your opinions and advice. I have never clayed a car before. Is it easy and is there any steps that I need to do other than wash the car with a very good PH balanced car wash before I do this process?

If you go to an auto accessory store like Pep Boys or Advance Auto, you'll see that the automotive clay comes in kits. After you wash and dry the car, spray a lubricant (part of the kit) onto a workable area, then rub the clay over the surface of that area, finish by drying the surface. Repeat this all over the car. Mother's and Maguire's make good kits. These should run you about $20. I recently saw that TurtleWax has come out with a liquid clay system but I have no idea how well it works.

Posted
Eh, I've used plenty of Canruabas that are slicker than sealants and I much prefer the look to that of Klasse, at least on dark colors. Klasse is so finicky to use too...

Klasse is finicky, but I've heard the same of JW and others. I never really have a problem as long as I apply lightly and follow with a quick detailer, which I always do anyway after waxing.

Just curious--what kind of carnuba did you use?

Posted
Just curious--what kind of carnuba did you use?

Depends on what color car I'm doing and what my goals are. Carnuabas that are as slick or slicker than Zaino or Klasse? Pinnacle Souveran, Poorboys Natty Wax, P21S/S100, for more longevity Meg's #16 is harder to work with but lasts longer and has a better look.

I just don't like sealants on anything but silver or white cars.

Posted

I will toss in another comment. :)

I like JW stuff. I have pics of JW AJT/AJ on my ES. I also have some using CG5050 wax on the same car (do a search). I know Nattys has longevity issues (since I used it and gave it away) and I have read about the same with Souveran.


Posted

Waxes like that aren't for longevity. I've found Souveran will last 3 weeks or so, no biggy since its so easy to use and I love how the car looks with it. I just throw a coat on the car in 15 minutes after a wash every 2-3 weeks in the summer and enjoy the look.

Posted
Waxes like that aren't for longevity. I've found Souveran will last 3 weeks or so, no biggy since its so easy to use and I love how the car looks with it. I just throw a coat on the car in 15 minutes after a wash every 2-3 weeks in the summer and enjoy the look.

True but on the flip side, if I can get a wax like Cg5050 and is like 2 or 3 times longer (and maintains looks) why not. I would try Souveran but for the price and timeline for "life", nope.

Posted

But the looks not the same. I've tried dozens of different carnuabas (I have not tried CG5050) and I've never found a wax that looks better on black, red, or dark metallic cars than Souveran. Sure its expensive, but it does go on good sales from time to time and one jar will probably last you many, many years even applying every 2-3 weeks in the spring, summer, and fall (its not a winter wax). I think I got my jar for $30, it retails for like $70. Personally, I can't see any carnuaba lasting more than a month on a dark car in the summer if it ever sits outside, it will vaporize.

Posted
But the looks not the same. I've tried dozens of different carnuabas (I have not tried CG5050) and I've never found a wax that looks better on black, red, or dark metallic cars than Souveran. Sure its expensive, but it does go on good sales from time to time and one jar will probably last you many, many years even applying every 2-3 weeks in the spring, summer, and fall (its not a winter wax). I think I got my jar for $30, it retails for like $70. Personally, I can't see any carnuaba lasting more than a month on a dark car in the summer if it ever sits outside, it will vaporize.

I agree. I know CG and nattys look the same (for me). Just Nattys does not hold up like CG5050. It seems to me like Nattys is far to much oils in it compared to the other.

I know on autopia many users of CG have gone 3 to 4 months and look good (beading, bird dropping protection, slickness etc). I have gone about 4 months and still look good (not my car).

Maybe I have smelled CG to much since I like it. For $15 nattys is not bad. I personally think both items listed one will outperform the other. I just do not like waxing my car that much. One time in 1 month is the max I would do. Cheapest I can find Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax is $69 (on sale).

Posted

I think it was at Classic Motoring Accessories, keep your eyes peeled every once and a while somebod will get a big shipment in and just try and empty their warehouse of it. Its a great wax, having used it now I probably would have paid the full $70 for it.

Posted
I think it was at Classic Motoring Accessories, keep your eyes peeled every once and a while somebod will get a big shipment in and just try and empty their warehouse of it. Its a great wax, having used it now I probably would have paid the full $70 for it.

Unfortunately it is not that price there anymore.

Posted

I'm also checking several websites, a few times a week.

If I see the price drop, I'll let you know.... I'm waiting too.

I know it's good, but $79.99 good?

The wife already thinks I'm nuts when it comes to my cars.

She says that it's like I'm having an affair with my car, LOL (which I am)

If she hears that I dropped $80- on wax?

I'll never hear the end of that one!

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