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96 Es300 With Code P0773


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i have downloaded the code with my obd11 scanner and it came up with p0401 and p0773, i fixed the p0401

but the p0773( shift solenoid e) code still comes up, after erasing almost immediately, has anyone else had this problem? i read where one person replaced theirs(but pricey), and the dealer quoted me the price of 252.00, and another person tried to fix their problem by putting some 'seafoam' then replacing the tranny fluid. but never found the answer, can someone put some help on whats going on with this particular solenoid, and replacing is the only answer? thanks...

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I've never had to deal with this error code, but the service manual states, as you said, that the code is set when a short or open circuit condition is detected (2 trip detection logic) on the shift solenid (SL) signal. To determine the cause, you would have to check the entire path from the ECM connector to the SL connector, in addition to checking the ECM SL pins and the SL itself.

The part that I don't understand is that you are not having any problems with the transmission. If the shift solenoid is not operating then you would expect some abnormality in the shift pattern.

Years ago the transmission started acting up on an 89 Camry that I owned. The dealer said the problem was a shift solenoid that was stuck. They recommended that I replace the faulty solenoid and the other two as well. It cost me $850. Then, a week later after the fix, the same thing happen again but this time it was a different solenoid. Of course, the problem was that the transmission had started producing metal, and the metal shavings were getting in the solenoids and making them stick. Making a long story short, I ended up replacing my transmission with a used transmission based on the dealer's recommendation.

So, be careful and ask questions. Make sure they don't blindly start replacing parts. If the cause of the problem is not fixed, as in my case, then the problem may occur again.

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I've never had to deal with this error code, but the service manual states, as you said, that the code is set when a short or open circuit condition is detected (2 trip detection logic) on the shift solenid (SL) signal. To determine the cause, you would have to check the entire path from the ECM connector to the SL connector, in addition to checking the ECM SL pins and the SL itself.

The part that I don't understand is that you are not having any problems with the transmission. If the shift solenoid is not operating then you would expect some abnormality in the shift pattern.

Years ago the transmission started acting up on an 89 Camry that I owned. The dealer said the problem was a shift solenoid that was stuck. They recommended that I replace the faulty solenoid and the other two as well. It cost me $850. Then, a week later after the fix, the same thing happen again but this time it was a different solenoid. Of course, the problem was that the transmission had started producing metal, and the metal shavings were getting in the solenoids and making them stick. Making a long story short, I ended up replacing my transmission with a used transmission based on the dealer's recommendation.

So, be careful and ask questions. Make sure they don't blindly start replacing parts. If the cause of the problem is not fixed, as in my case, then the problem may occur again.

i totally agree with you on that. i usually do all my work on the car, and no problems that i couldn't get out of yet. today i replaced the tranny fluid just to see if the new fluid will do any good, reset the code and got it almost immed. as usual. guess its time to take the meter and start tracing. i did order a gasket the other day, just to drop the tranny pan and take at look at the solenoids myself and hopefully a loose wire. Here's question for you, is the toyota brand tranny fluid the same color as the standard dexron fluid from any other maker besides toyota? and thanks your advices...

also, would you or anyone else know where the solenoid connector on the tranny is located? is it visible from looking down between the battery and other crevices? thanks...

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Best bet is to flush the fluid even if it is not driving differently to you. Then add a inline tranny filter to catch new debris. If it needs to be fixed i would drop the pan and the valve body to clean it out.

i did replace the tranny fluid yesterday, and drove it abit and code still there. i did order a pan gasket, so i can take a look at the solenoids and see it any debris and check the operation.

i noticed the tranny fluid taken out was not redish in color, but more like the color of slightly used motor oil, so the new fluid was replaced, i checked this morning for fluid level and the redish color of new fluid was gone and its color changed to again the slight used motor oil color, does it mean it needs a tranny flush or why is the color changing? i am going to add some seafoam, prior to dropping the pan to check the solenoids , is that a good idea of a flush or should i be using another product? thanks for any replys...

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sea foam is not for a tranny.

You need a flush ,of course it will look black again as it is still old dirty fluid in there. The solenoid is problem plugged with debris so the new fluid has cleaning agents to loosen it , the inline filter will catch all of the debris to keep it from circulating back into the tranny.

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sea foam is not for a tranny.

You need a flush ,of course it will look black again as it is still old dirty fluid in there. The solenoid is problem plugged with debris so the new fluid has cleaning agents to loosen it , the inline filter will catch all of the debris to keep it from circulating back into the tranny.

when you say ' inline filter ' is that the filter that comes with the tranny filer replacement or totally differernt, by any chance you might have a pic of it. its a internal filter, correct?

ps. so whats a real good tranny slush additive? also today i tested the resistance on the connector from the ecu going to the solenoid/tranny, according to the service manual, there's suppose to 8-100,000ohm, but when i tested, it read 0.00, if then the manual says to replace ecu, so i found one for $75.00 will pickup tomorrow and test.

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also today i tested the resistance on the connector from the ecu going to the solenoid/tranny, according to the service manual, there's suppose to 8-100,000ohm, but when i tested, it read 0.00, if then the manual says to replace ecu, so i found one for $75.00 will pickup tomorrow and test.

I saw this in the repair manual too and it confused me. I think that the solenoid's DC resistance should not be more than a few Ohms. If you repeat your measurement using a finer scale you will probably read a few Ohms and not zero. Or, at least that's what I think! :unsure:

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also today i tested the resistance on the connector from the ecu going to the solenoid/tranny, according to the service manual, there's suppose to 8-100,000ohm, but when i tested, it read 0.00, if then the manual says to replace ecu, so i found one for $75.00 will pickup tomorrow and test.

I saw this in the repair manual too and it confused me. I think that the solenoid's DC resistance should not be more than a few Ohms. If you repeat your measurement using a finer scale you will probably read a few Ohms and not zero. Or, at least that's what I think! :unsure:

The test that i did was checking the measurement from the ecm/connector to the ground, and the following test was for the solenoid, is that the test you must be referring to correct?

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Has anyone replaced solenoid before?

my es300 is 1996.

I opened up the transmission pan yesterday; the solenoid plug is right next to the filter, but the solenoid itself is above the valve body! Has anyone tried to remove the valve body to replace the selonid before?

And regarding the in-line filter, is it just the regular transmission filter? or an additional after-market external filter?

Thanks.

Justin

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Has anyone replaced solenoid before?

my es300 is 1996.

I opened up the transmission pan yesterday; the solenoid plug is right next to the filter, but the solenoid itself is above the valve body! Has anyone tried to remove the valve body to replace the selonid before?

And regarding the in-line filter, is it just the regular transmission filter? or an additional after-market external filter?

Thanks.

Justin

are you getting the same code p0773?

Has anyone replaced solenoid before?

my es300 is 1996.

I opened up the transmission pan yesterday; the solenoid plug is right next to the filter, but the solenoid itself is above the valve body! Has anyone tried to remove the valve body to replace the selonid before?

And regarding the in-line filter, is it just the regular transmission filter? or an additional after-market external filter?

Thanks.

Justin

also, i found a seafoam product for transmissions and power steering flush... its call ' seafoam trans tune '

ps. also today was my last day to get smog, since trying to get the 2 codes rid of in the last 5 months, and today, i pass smog, i guess it was kinda of tricking of the ecm, and the mil code was gone till i was able to get the smog test and it pass was great numbers.. hurraayyy.. what a relief

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The test that i did was checking the measurement from the ecm/connector to the ground, and the following test was for the solenoid, is that the test you must be referring to correct?

Yes. I am talking about the resistance from the SL signal on the ECM connector to ground, which should include the solenoid coil resistance.

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sea foam is not for a tranny.

You need a flush ,of course it will look black again as it is still old dirty fluid in there. The solenoid is problem plugged with debris so the new fluid has cleaning agents to loosen it , the inline filter will catch all of the debris to keep it from circulating back into the tranny.

seafoam makes one for transmission also, i was suprised when i found it. anyways i dropped the pan to check out the solenoid and the visible one, which is probably according to the service manual its the one causing the code, and after inspecting and tested with 12v, and the solenoid did not move, so i guess it might be broken, the weird part is the solenoid is not easily taken off, seems like the main inernal body might have to be removed to access the solenoid removal.

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So when you dropped the pan did you see any metal shavings on the magnets or in the pan? I'm curious to know why the solenoid is stuck.

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So when you dropped the pan did you see any metal shavings on the magnets or in the pan? I'm curious to know why the solenoid is stuck.

it was mags were pretty clean.

thank god i was able to pass smog. kinda of funky procedure that i did, but got me thru to pass smog, and i think this might work with cars with other mil codes.

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