Jbabin3xb Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 I want to keep the existing amp in the car.I was wondering if i could put in subs with their own dedicated amp in the trunk without having to get a new head-unit. kinda stripped for cash. and the amp has its own wired volume controller so i don't need to worry about volume from the head unit. Pictures would be the greatest help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95_SC400 Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 I want to keep the existing amp in the car.I was wondering if i could put in subs with their own dedicated amp in the trunk without having to get a new head-unit. kinda stripped for cash. and the amp has its own wired volume controller so i don't need to worry about volume from the head unit.Pictures would be the greatest help It is most definately possible. I myslef just bought a sub and amp last week and am going to hook it up some time soon. Im just not sure what wires to tap into yet. Ill update you with info and pics as soon as i get mine installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbabin3xb Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 thank you so much, i just don't want to waste a perfectly good head unit! when you do could you upload pics of what wires to tap, or a site that gives a walk through, i searched and couldn't seem to find one. I'm mostly concerned with the on/off toggle wire for the sub amp, i don't want to suck my battery to no end. thats my main concern with the install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1995_ES300 Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 It can absolutly be done...I have the stock HU and amp in my car, but I have a dedicated sub amp and a dedicated full-range amp for the speakers in the doors and rear-shelf. I essentially tapped off of the two rear speakers in the back and by using splitters and running all the speakers at 2 ohms, I was able to amp up everything off of those two speakers. My initial worry was the amps cutting off, or an issue with the stock amp being used in tandem with an aftermarket amp....but nothing ill after over a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbabin3xb Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 It can absolutly be done...I have the stock HU and amp in my car, but I have a dedicated sub amp and a dedicated full-range amp for the speakers in the doors and rear-shelf. I essentially tapped off of the two rear speakers in the back and by using splitters and running all the speakers at 2 ohms, I was able to amp up everything off of those two speakers. My initial worry was the amps cutting off, or an issue with the stock amp being used in tandem with an aftermarket amp....but nothing ill after over a year. How did you run the on/off toggle cable for your amps to the main head unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 It can absolutly be done...I have the stock HU and amp in my car, but I have a dedicated sub amp and a dedicated full-range amp for the speakers in the doors and rear-shelf. I essentially tapped off of the two rear speakers in the back and by using splitters and running all the speakers at 2 ohms, I was able to amp up everything off of those two speakers. My initial worry was the amps cutting off, or an issue with the stock amp being used in tandem with an aftermarket amp....but nothing ill after over a year. How did you run the on/off toggle cable for your amps to the main head unit? What I did on mine (Pioneer factory system) is I tapped into all the necessary wiring going to the oem sub amp located on the package tray next to the oem subwoofer. I tapped into the hot, the ground & the on/off. I then cut the wires running from the oem sub amp to the oem subwoofer and ran them to the new sub amp (400 watt - I used a wire-to-rca type converter between the two sub amps for low level output) and then back to the oem subwoofer - now two amps pumping the sub - too much power so I replaced the 10" oem subwoofer with a higher wattage 10" Pioneer subwoofer (not alot of room over the gas tank, though, but it still fit). I added a separate subwoofer volume control device I found on ebay to my system ( I installed the volume control knob in the center console) which allows me to increase or decrease just the subwoofer volume. Pretty cool. For the rear deck speakers (plus two more that I added sitting on the floor board behind the front seats) I cut the wires going to the rear deck speakers and ran them to the another new power amp and back to the oem rear speakers and the two that I added. For hot, ground & on/off I tapped into the the same wires for the new sub amp. Sounds awesome & no problems so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95_SC400 Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 What I did on mine (Pioneer factory system) is I tapped into all the necessary wiring going to the oem sub amp located on the package tray next to the oem subwoofer. I tapped into the hot, the ground & the on/off. I then cut the wires running from the oem sub amp to the oem subwoofer and ran them to the new sub amp (400 watt - I used a wire-to-rca type converter between the two sub amps for low level output) and then back to the oem subwoofer - now two amps pumping the sub - too much power so I replaced the 10" oem subwoofer with a higher wattage 10" Pioneer subwoofer (not alot of room over the gas tank, though, but it still fit). I added a separate subwoofer volume control device I found on ebay to my system ( I installed the volume control knob in the center console) which allows me to increase or decrease just the subwoofer volume. Pretty cool. For the rear deck speakers (plus two more that I added sitting on the floor board behind the front seats) I cut the wires going to the rear deck speakers and ran them to the another new power amp and back to the oem rear speakers and the two that I added. For hot, ground & on/off I tapped into the the same wires for the new sub amp. Sounds awesome & no problems so far. Hey, I am about to run my sub and amp setup really soon and what you just posted helped a lot. If possible please tell me the color wires you tapped into and even better would be if you included some pictures. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 What I did on mine (Pioneer factory system) is I tapped into all the necessary wiring going to the oem sub amp located on the package tray next to the oem subwoofer. I tapped into the hot, the ground & the on/off. I then cut the wires running from the oem sub amp to the oem subwoofer and ran them to the new sub amp (400 watt - I used a wire-to-rca type converter between the two sub amps for low level output) and then back to the oem subwoofer - now two amps pumping the sub - too much power so I replaced the 10" oem subwoofer with a higher wattage 10" Pioneer subwoofer (not alot of room over the gas tank, though, but it still fit). I added a separate subwoofer volume control device I found on ebay to my system ( I installed the volume control knob in the center console) which allows me to increase or decrease just the subwoofer volume. Pretty cool. For the rear deck speakers (plus two more that I added sitting on the floor board behind the front seats) I cut the wires going to the rear deck speakers and ran them to the another new power amp and back to the oem rear speakers and the two that I added. For hot, ground & on/off I tapped into the the same wires for the new sub amp. Sounds awesome & no problems so far. Hey, I am about to run my sub and amp setup really soon and what you just posted helped a lot. If possible please tell me the color wires you tapped into and even better would be if you included some pictures. Thanks! What I did on mine (Pioneer factory system) is I tapped into all the necessary wiring going to the oem sub amp located on the package tray next to the oem subwoofer. I tapped into the hot, the ground & the on/off. I then cut the wires running from the oem sub amp to the oem subwoofer and ran them to the new sub amp (400 watt - I used a wire-to-rca type converter between the two sub amps for low level output) and then back to the oem subwoofer - now two amps pumping the sub - too much power so I replaced the 10" oem subwoofer with a higher wattage 10" Pioneer subwoofer (not alot of room over the gas tank, though, but it still fit). I added a separate subwoofer volume control device I found on ebay to my system ( I installed the volume control knob in the center console) which allows me to increase or decrease just the subwoofer volume. Pretty cool. For the rear deck speakers (plus two more that I added sitting on the floor board behind the front seats) I cut the wires going to the rear deck speakers and ran them to the another new power amp and back to the oem rear speakers and the two that I added. For hot, ground & on/off I tapped into the the same wires for the new sub amp. Sounds awesome & no problems so far. Hey, I am about to run my sub and amp setup really soon and what you just posted helped a lot. If possible please tell me the color wires you tapped into and even better would be if you included some pictures. Thanks! SORRY FOR THE DELAY. I AM STILL TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO SEND ATTACHMENTS. MAYBE THIS WILL BE THE ONE THAT GETS TO YOU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95_SC400 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Hey, Thanks a bunch! that really helps. Im gonna do my setup next week, ill update how it goes. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbabin3xb Posted January 17, 2007 Author Share Posted January 17, 2007 hey thanks for taking the time to upload these , they help alot! i'll run them when they come in and take some pics later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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