Broken Piece From The Air Intake Connector Pipe

[Gumart1]

If my photo doesn't load you can see what I'm talking about in step 9 here:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html

In removing the 2 air hoses on my '91LS, the small plastic piece that the hose fits on that attaches to the intake completely broke off :cries: . In the photo the connectors look like an "L", and it is the lower one, the smaller of the two connectors that broke.

I tried using a 2-part epoxy and let it sit for several days while I did other work. It snapped right off again when I tried to reconnect the hose. And that's after sticking a screwdriver in the hose to loosen it a bit and lubricating the hose end before attaching. The surface area is so small, I can't see any glue working. The entire replacement part is hundreds of dollars. Any ideas/suggestions?

[Threadcutter]

If my photo doesn't load you can see what I'm talking about in step 9 here:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html

In removing the 2 air hoses on my '91LS, the small plastic piece that the hose fits on that attaches to the intake completely broke off :cries: . In the photo the connectors look like an "L", and it is the lower one, the smaller of the two connectors that broke.

I tried using a 2-part epoxy and let it sit for several days while I did other work. It snapped right off again when I tried to reconnect the hose. And that's after sticking a screwdriver in the hose to loosen it a bit and lubricating the hose end before attaching. The surface area is so small, I can't see any glue working. The entire replacement part is hundreds of dollars. Any ideas/suggestions?

Gum:

Give me a little bit of time to get you a picture, I've got a VERY slick solution for you. I feel your pain, I had EXACTLY the same problem. I went to the hardware store and bought a brass barb fitting that was threaded on the other end. I drilled out the plastic until I could (with resistance) thread the threaded portion of the fitting into the plastic. While you're waiting, take a small, fine file or sandpaper on a small block and remove the remaining plastic/what's left of the barb. Just to the point of being flush. Don't take it all the way down to big portion of the tube......you're just removing "meat" unnecessarily.

Also, I cut off some of the total length of the barbed end a little bit because I wanted to be able to remove the hose periodically. I cut all but 2 "ridges" off of the barbed end & I also sanded the back edge of the barbs because they are sharp and are designed to cut into/grip the hose. I wanted to smooth them down so that they wouldn't permanently grip the hose.

You'll love it, it worked very well. I'll post a picture later today.

[SKperformance]

I was going to suggest the same thing.

[Gumart1]

Threadcutter - I thought I was &%^&$ but you saved me. It's good to know I'm not the only one that's had this happen. It sounds like SK has had this happen to this or another part in the past too. It gave me the feeling that my 15 year old car is starting to wrinkle like an old man and turn brittle. I guess it's a very weak connection point.

I'd really appreciate a photo when you get the chance. Also, do you remember the size of the brass fitting and length that you used? And does the threaded end "self thread" into the plastic open end? Excellent solution. Thanks again.

[Kennyr]

This happened to me and I rigged it in 30 seconds. Just get a 1 to 2 inch piece of vaccum line or fuel line big enough to slip over the original hose and the bigger nub still left coming out of the valve. Simple fix. This has worked for years. It even looks good.

[Threadcutter]

Threadcutter - I thought I was &%^&$ but you saved me. It's good to know I'm not the only one that's had this happen. It sounds like SK has had this happen to this or another part in the past too. It gave me the feeling that my 15 year old car is starting to wrinkle like an old man and turn brittle. I guess it's a very weak connection point.

I'd really appreciate a photo when you get the chance. Also, do you remember the size of the brass fitting and length that you used? And does the threaded end "self thread" into the plastic open end? Excellent solution. Thanks again.

Gum:

The wife musta' been hiding her own eastereggs & gotten the camera in there too.........

Here's a good picture of the type of fitting that I used;

This is electroless nickel, not brass, but it doesn't make any difference which one you use.

It gave me the feeling that my 15 year old car is starting to wrinkle like an old man and turn brittle. I guess it's a very weak connection point.

'95's aren't any better. I wasn't real surprised when mine broke, I was pulling on it pretty hard. But it is one of those "awwwww........ sheist!" moments, isn't it?

Also, do you remember the size of the brass fitting and length that you used?

My friend, you just stepped on my "achilles heel"................Pipe threads never made any sense to me. I 'think", the pipe thread side is 1/4", but you need to verify that for sure. When I fixed mine, it was more of an exercise in spatial relations than precision measurements. The good news is that I bought it at one of the big hardware chains.........I don't remember if it was Lowe's or Home Despot........So the availability is good for us weekend warriors. I dragged the whole resonator (big, black plastic piece) broken off nipple & a chunk of hose in with me & fit it all up inside the store. I may have even bought a couple of different sizes because they're cheaper ('buck & a half'ish each) than running back & forth to the hardware store.

And does the threaded end "self thread" into the plastic open end?

Yes, well, sort of..............

(The way my luck runs) I figured if I used the corresponding size pipe thread tap that the threaded hole would be loose & sloppy. So I spent a fair amount of time patiently drilling out the hole with successively large bits just until I could get the threads started. Keep in mind I used a "139 piece" (or whatever it was), drill bit set. Point being, is that each succesive increase in drill bit size was very small. That way, it would be harder for me to drill the hole too large, which was the last thing I wanted to do. Anyway, I got just the right hole size (nope, don't remember the drill size, sorry), began the threading with a closed end wrench around the Hex flat & it threaded nice & snug. You don't want to have to really force it because you might crack the body.........might as well go buy a new resonator then......

Also, I'd recommend against the temptation to enlarge the hole with anything other than a drill bit, like a rat tail file. You want the hole perfectly round, not oblong.

Be patient, it will take you a bit of time to do it right (mine took about a 6 pack). You might want to try using the corresponding pipe thread tap. Just remember, pipe threads are tapered, if the taper on the fitting doesn't line up perfectly with the taper in the hole, it will be a point of weakness.

Also, file down or hacksaw off all but the bottom two barbs. Don't do this while it's threaded into the plastic, it might break.......put it in a vise. Then, sand the sharp edge off the back side of the barbs. If you don't do this, the only way to get the hose off in the future will be to cut it off.

[SKperformance]

Also another option is using a hollow bolt and nut with washers.

[GRAND_LS 4]

Also another option is using a hollow bolt and nut with washers.

I had the same problem, and bought some fittings from Home depot. When neither of them fit, I just glued it together. Still holding on.

[vuster]

Threadcutter - I thought I was &%^&$ but you saved me. It's good to know I'm not the only one that's had this happen. It sounds like SK has had this happen to this or another part in the past too. It gave me the feeling that my 15 year old car is starting to wrinkle like an old man and turn brittle. I guess it's a very weak connection point.

I'd really appreciate a photo when you get the chance. Also, do you remember the size of the brass fitting and length that you used? And does the threaded end "self thread" into the plastic open end? Excellent solution. Thanks again.

Gum:

The wife musta' been hiding her own eastereggs & gotten the camera in there too.........

Here's a good picture of the type of fitting that I used;

This is electroless nickel, not brass, but it doesn't make any difference which one you use.

It gave me the feeling that my 15 year old car is starting to wrinkle like an old man and turn brittle. I guess it's a very weak connection point.

'95's aren't any better. I wasn't real surprised when mine broke, I was pulling on it pretty hard. But it is one of those "awwwww........ sheist!" moments, isn't it?

Also, do you remember the size of the brass fitting and length that you used?

My friend, you just stepped on my "achilles heel"................Pipe threads never made any sense to me. I 'think", the pipe thread side is 1/4", but you need to verify that for sure. When I fixed mine, it was more of an exercise in spatial relations than precision measurements. The good news is that I bought it at one of the big hardware chains.........I don't remember if it was Lowe's or Home Despot........So the availability is good for us weekend warriors. I dragged the whole resonator (big, black plastic piece) broken off nipple & a chunk of hose in with me & fit it all up inside the store. I may have even bought a couple of different sizes because they're cheaper ('buck & a half'ish each) than running back & forth to the hardware store.

And does the threaded end "self thread" into the plastic open end?

Yes, well, sort of..............

(The way my luck runs) I figured if I used the corresponding size pipe thread tap that the threaded hole would be loose & sloppy. So I spent a fair amount of time patiently drilling out the hole with successively large bits just until I could get the threads started. Keep in mind I used a "139 piece" (or whatever it was), drill bit set. Point being, is that each succesive increase in drill bit size was very small. That way, it would be harder for me to drill the hole too large, which was the last thing I wanted to do. Anyway, I got just the right hole size (nope, don't remember the drill size, sorry), began the threading with a closed end wrench around the Hex flat & it threaded nice & snug. You don't want to have to really force it because you might crack the body.........might as well go buy a new resonator then......

Also, I'd recommend against the temptation to enlarge the hole with anything other than a drill bit, like a rat tail file. You want the hole perfectly round, not oblong.

Be patient, it will take you a bit of time to do it right (mine took about a 6 pack). You might want to try using the corresponding pipe thread tap. Just remember, pipe threads are tapered, if the taper on the fitting doesn't line up perfectly with the taper in the hole, it will be a point of weakness.

Also, file down or hacksaw off all but the bottom two barbs. Don't do this while it's threaded into the plastic, it might break.......put it in a vise. Then, sand the sharp edge off the back side of the barbs. If you don't do this, the only way to get the hose off in the future will be to cut it off.

:cheers:

This happend to me today and trying to find a solution. When you screwed on the brass fitting, did you use any glue to secure to make it air tight? Thanks!

[Zeus253]

I wonder if a snug rubber grommet and a snug hose connector fitting would work?