Lexus Brake Rotors

[viclykewhoa]

Hey all,

I am looking into replacing my worn rotors and have heard that Lexus coats the hub (the middle of the rotor, not the braking surface) with a rustproof layer of paint. I was wondering if this is true as I am debating whether I should buy OEM or buy the Brembo rotors.

I already have the PBR Ultimate (ceramic) brake pads on.

Also, has anyone used Brembo rotors before? If so, is there a significant difference between that and OEM?

Please let me know. Any comments, experiences will be greatly appreciated.

[GuyTelefunken]

I believe tha all rotors will rust over time. The Brembos are a lot less money than the OEM, but iron is iron; provided it is machined acurately and finished well. I would stay with the regular smoothies if it was up to me. I've used all kinds on many cars and have yet to see a reason to slot, drill, or otherwise *BLEEP*ize a plain old rotor for "normal" applications.

The only problem I have had with aftermarket rotors was on the rear. There is a groove on the backside of the rotor that fits around the plate surrounding the parking brake components. I've gotten aftermarket rotors (not Brembo) where the groove wasn't deep enough and rubbed on this plate.

[#1gs300]

I believe tha all rotors will rust over time. The Brembos are a lot less money than the OEM, but iron is iron; provided it is machined acurately and finished well. I would stay with the regular smoothies if it was up to me. I've used all kinds on many cars and have yet to see a reason to slot, drill, or otherwise *BLEEP*ize a plain old rotor for "normal" applications.

The only problem I have had with aftermarket rotors was on the rear. There is a groove on the backside of the rotor that fits around the plate surrounding the parking brake components. I've gotten aftermarket rotors (not Brembo) where the groove wasn't deep enough and rubbed on this plate.

It's a good thing u mentioned that because i just got oem brake pades and aftermarket brembo for the front and some crest auto brand for the rear's and when i would make left, and right turns i hear this rubbing noise from the grove of the rear rotor, and the brake dust cover lip for the e-brake. i took it back to the mechanic after hearing it. It was then when he took everything off and seen the 2 metals rubbing the only option was to just gring a little bit of metal from the dust cover lip ( by the way i just got this done today around noon). After that there was no sound at all.

[GuyTelefunken]

I did consider that solution. I would have actually preferred to cut the groove in the rotor a little deeper. Unfortunately, I don't have the appropriate tooling for that. So, in keeping with my personal need to continue paving the road to perfection, I opted to have the original rotors cut to very near minumum thickness. They have been working well for >10K miles.

[rhwimmers]

My front right tire grinds pretty bad when slowing down - im pretty sure i just need new brake pads - Is their something I should get instead of OEM pads - whats the difference?

Thanks

Ross

[viclykewhoa]

I believe tha all rotors will rust over time. The Brembos are a lot less money than the OEM, but iron is iron; provided it is machined acurately and finished well. I would stay with the regular smoothies if it was up to me. I've used all kinds on many cars and have yet to see a reason to slot, drill, or otherwise *BLEEP*ize a plain old rotor for "normal" applications.

The only problem I have had with aftermarket rotors was on the rear. There is a groove on the backside of the rotor that fits around the plate surrounding the parking brake components. I've gotten aftermarket rotors (not Brembo) where the groove wasn't deep enough and rubbed on this plate.

yea i agree with you... i wasn't about to get cross drilled or slotted... i was looking into getting Brembo OEM replacements. after reading your post though i am wondering if brembo makes the groove for the rear rotors deep enough. i will be sure to call brembo before ordering...

thanks for the input.

[SKperformance]

Actually the OEM rotors are not painted but cadmium plated.

This coating is just a heat treated barrier from the iron/steel rusting. When you do see rust on OEM rotors it is because the brake dust has embedded itself onto the coating and that dust is actually rusting not the rotors.

You don't need deep grooves just a nice bevelled edge for the slotting which prevent banding on the pads surface. Too deep slots will degrade the structural integrity of the rotor. This will cause the rotors to succumb to heat easier and warp.

Brembo also coats there rotors as do some aftermarket companies. Painting them is a band aid solution that never looks or lasts as well.

[viclykewhoa]

Actually the OEM rotors are not painted but cadmium plated.

This coating is just a heat treated barrier from the iron/steel rusting. When you do see rust on OEM rotors it is because the brake dust has embedded itself onto the coating and that dust is actually rusting not the rotors.

You don't need deep grooves just a nice bevelled edge for the slotting which prevent banding on the pads surface. Too deep slots will degrade the structural integrity of the rotor. This will cause the rotors to succumb to heat easier and warp.

Brembo also coats there rotors as do some aftermarket companies. Painting them is a band aid solution that never looks or lasts as well.

thanks for the clarification SK. so, is the reason why so many reviews on TireRack.com about the Brembo rotors rusting due not to Brembo not coating the rotors but due to the brake dust rusting on the rotors surface?

i'm going to check my rotor's thickness tomorrow morning and will order the Brembo replacements if i need to.

also, it seems that my rear brake pads wear much, much faster than the front. i don't believe that is normal as most of the brake force is on the front calipers and rotors. SK, what could be causing this?

[SKperformance]

You definitely have a problem if you burn through rears faster.

You may have a blockage or in need of replacing the flex lines which may not be transferring the hydraulic pressure .

When did you bleed the brakes last?

Also make sure the pistons are lubed when doing the brakes as well as it may be sticking on the front.

[viclykewhoa]

You definitely have a problem if you burn through rears faster.

You may have a blockage or in need of replacing the flex lines which may not be transferring the hydraulic pressure .

When did you bleed the brakes last?

Also make sure the pistons are lubed when doing the brakes as well as it may be sticking on the front.

i've never bled my brakes before and i've driven the car for over 30,000 miles. i will attempt to do that tom morning. how would a blockage in the rear brake lines cause the rear pads to wear faster? is it because the blockage is preventing the caliper from retracting?

thanks...

i will let all know how that goes tom...

[SKperformance]

Sorry , i should have clarified.

When i said blockage or flex lines that are weak i meant in the front braking system . By having increased pressure up front you would have more pressure out back causing the rears to apply more pressure to the pads than the front.

As a normal rule of thumb you should normally replace the rears every other time you replace the fronts.

Also make sure the rears are not sticking either.

[BlexusGS]

I have Brembo Cross drilled/slotted rotors all around on my 2000 Gs400 for over a year now and no problems at all. They work great! Purchased them on EBAY for $269.00 for (4) new rotors and $79.00 for (4) AXXIS Metalmaster pads. Installed myself; very easy. Excellent products. Just my 2 cents.