#1gs300

Hi Guy To clarify what i was talking about. #1- This is your post: If the thermometer in your garage says 90 deg. F. what does the scantool indicate under air temperature? If it's close to the same, you're good. *This is what im saying: As far as the write up in post #2 about code p0110 (iat) I couldn't do this in my garage because i dont have a scan tool. when i went to the mechanics shop we did this test on the scan tool it read 99.5 degrees when i talked about this particular temp it was reffering to code p1128 i used that IAT for a guide line to determine what my throttle control motor temp may be @ the mechanic shop only because it states in the instructions of testing the ohms for this particular unit that (resistance 0.3~ 100ohms @ 20 degrees celsius 68 degrees fahrenhiet). As far as the garage i was just trying to say i came home from work opened the garage up the car didnt run all day i did the ohms test it came up 1.3 ohms on the multimeter, and the same 1.3 ohms came up the day i took it to the mechanics shop. #2-This is ur post: You say the instructions say 100 ohms @ 68 deg. F. I don't read the chart that way. I see +/- 2000 ohms @ 68 deg. F or about 1500 ohms at 99 deg. F. If your reading of "1.3" is actually 1.3K ohms (1300 ohms) it is ok. *This is what im saying: If u look @ the info u gave me in post #2 about p1128 the first test. this is what i was going by. Resistance 0.3~ 100ohms @ 20 degrees celsius 68 degrees fahrenhiet. I really dont understand it i had my multimeter on regular ohms, not killi ohms, or milli ohms. I'm sorry for the confusion guy i was in a rush when i typed this stuff in my last post. The (+/- 2000 ohms @ 68 deg. F or about 1500 ohms at 99 deg. F) is for p0110 (IAT). Could u do the 3rd test for code p0110, and the 1st test for code p1128 on ur car and tell me what u get guy. Thanks alot man.

hi guy i took my car to the mechanic, we did the tests on the iat, and the throttle motor. as far as the IAT we did the test all te way up to test #3 being as though test #'s 1,2 where fine. #3 the 1 that says check for open in harness or ecm that test came as 284 degrees, but there are no codes when everything is back to gether, would u be kind enough to do the same test on ur car and see if u get the 284 degrees result so what it is saying is replace ecu harness, im not getting any difference in performance or anything unless i had this problem for 4,5 yrs when i brought the car. As far as the p1128 on the scan tool the iat temp was 99.5 degrees, i know that the instructons say 100ohms @ 68 degrees, but @ 99.5 degrees i toke my multimeter and it read 1.3 ohms. the same as it read the other day when i got off work open my garage the car was not ran. Now as far as the throttle position sensor's position it was reading 13.6 at first so he adjusted it @ 15.6 on the nose when the car is @ idle, and (warmed up) it was 13.6, also with the car off @ wot it read 79.7. Could u do those tests and let me know as far as the iat #3 test. Thanks

HI GUY I DID SOME CALLING AROUND I CALLED LEXUS OF WILMINGTON PART WAS 292.00, AND LEXUS OF HAVERTOWN PART WAS 325.00, ALSO I GOT MY L-TUNED EXHAUST IN SO I CALL CARSON TOYOTA IN CALIFORNIA AND LUIS SAID THAT THE PART WOULD BE 20% CHEAPER THAN WHAT LEXUS CHARGES, BY BEING A CLUB LEXUS MEMBER. i DO RECALL READING THAT SOME ONE HAD TO REPLACE THEIRS AND THEY GOT IT FROM CARSON I BELEIVE FOR 206 I BELEIVE, BUT ANYWAY I HOOKED UP WITH MY MECHANIC, IM SUPPOSE TO GO TO HIS SHOP IN THE A.M. SO WE COULD RUN THE TESTS THAT U PROVIDED FOR ME BECAUSE HE HAS THE SNAP ON SCAN TOOL AND I WASN'T SPENDING 280 DOLLARS ON THE ACTRON CP96145 I BELEIVE THATS THE WRIGHT MODEL #, AND THEN POSSIBLY HAVE TO KICK OUT ANOTHER 300 TO 500 DOLLARS TO GET THE PARTS IF SOMETHING IS WRONG. ALSO I WENT BACK TO AUTO ZONE TODAY SO THEY COULD ERASE THE CODES AND IVE BEEN DRIVING AROUND PRACTILY ALL DAY AND I HAVENT HAD ANY LIGHTS COME UP. I'LL KEEP U INFORMED TOMORROW OF WHAT WE FIND. THANKS

Hey guy i hope they i could just by the 1 componet and not the whole throttle body if i am able to do that will it be an easy install. Also i think all this stuff happened 1 day i was cleaning mythrottle body and i was using a rag and a long screw driver to open and close the plate , then i remembered some 1 had a diy write up on thisso then after i did it the way that i did i went to turn the key in the on position moved the accelarator cable to move the plate and all of a sudden the plate closed on me i let the accelarator cable go and reopened it andand i was able to get my screw driver back out, after that i put everything back together and started the car up then i got the vsc, vcs off lights, dont know if the check engine light came on because i have a picture of my son over where the light would appear to come on @. i resetted the ecu and didnt get the lights back, that was 3 weeks ago, so i went to auto zone just to get the obd2 meter put on because i read a post saying that just because u get the lights to go out by ressetting the ecu doesnt mean the problem is corrected so thats when i went to the zone to get the car checked out. Also do u think the auto zone MAF sensor is good enough for the car or should i get it from the dealer. Sorry for the run on sentences, but i really appreciate ur help.

Hi guy i took my ohm meter and checked the ohms, and it read 1.3 ohm. I see that the throttle position switch is connected to the motor should i get a mechanic to do this or do it my self. Also i plugged it back up and turned the key on and heard a loud whinning noise is that a sighn of it being bad.

hey guy thanks for the info, will a autozone obd2 meter work well while i check this out, the autozone obd2 is the 1 that came up with these codes. Also if it is my throttle control motor is it a diy type job or does lexus have to do it. Also what program are u using to find this stuff out ur a lot of help. I may want to get thet program

hi does any body know what i have to do for these codes p0110 IAT (intake air temp), and p1128 Throttle control motor lock malfunction Please help

:) I TOTAL AGREE I JUST RECENTLY BROUGHT ROTORS AFTERMARKET AND BROUGHT BRAKES FROM DEALER FROM THE PARTS DEPARTMENT, SO I MOSEY MY A*^ ON OVER TO SERVICE I SAID HOW MUCH WOULD U CHARGE ME TO PUT BRAKES AND ROTORS ON THAT I JUST PURCHASED. THE IDIOT TOLD ME AFTER HE DAMN NEAR REPEATED WHAT I SAID TO HIM HE SAID IT WOULD BE 210.00 FOR THE FRONT , AND 210.00 FOR THE REAR. I DID AN ABOUT FACE WITH OUT SAYING A WORD AND WALKED OUT FOUND A SHOP TO DO IT FOR 160.00 ALL THE WAY AROUND. THE POINT IS LEXUS ALWAYS OVER CHARGE PEOPLE GOT TO TOYOTA THEY HAVE A NEW SYSTEM IN THEIR COMPUTER THAT HAVE OUR CARS IN THERE AND CAN GET PARTS CHEAPER THAN LEXUS. WITH THE EXTRA MONEY U WILL SAVE U COULD TAKE UR FAMILY SHOPPING AND A NICE DINNER AND MOVIE AND PROBABLY STILLHAVE SOME CHANGE LEFT.

I thought it was the new gs300.

It's a good thing u mentioned that because i just got oem brake pades and aftermarket brembo for the front and some crest auto brand for the rear's and when i would make left, and right turns i hear this rubbing noise from the grove of the rear rotor, and the brake dust cover lip for the e-brake. i took it back to the mechanic after hearing it. It was then when he took everything off and seen the 2 metals rubbing the only option was to just gring a little bit of metal from the dust cover lip ( by the way i just got this done today around noon). After that there was no sound at all.

If u want a stiffer ride then go with tein ss, i personally dont like the ss's that are on my car because they are a little stiffer than stock when i bought mine 2 months ago i thought i was going to get something softer, the person shop that sold them to me was tring to get a quick buck. I learned my lesson the hard way so know i just spent another 1260 for the new cs's which for what i've been reading is supose to give me what im looking for. So fpor know im 950 in the drain for the ss i brought, but im not mad. as far as ur brake system i cant help ya hommie.

the ss are to firm for me, but yes they do handle pretty good. I want the comfort of something better than factory and be able to lower to. I've had the on my car for maybe a month and a half, or 2 months with 1200miles on them i rather have the luxury ride.

I just ordered the new cs's should be here by friday, cant wait to get out of the ss so i could get rid of them.

This is where i got my set from had it for a year and it is a plug and play set. it literally takes 5 min to hook up maybe 20min if u want to make it neat. www.japanjdm.com Trust me they are bright and give off a white bluish look. If u get them hook 1 side up with the hid and let the other stay factory and turn them on and u will see the difference.(THAT IF U WANT TO COMPARE)

I was just wondering if any body had these headers on there gs 300,400, if so how does this make the car sound with the borla exhaust and srt intake.

hey turbo do u know of anyone that got this chip, and if so does this work good with the srt intake

I have the borlas, and the srt intake on my gs300 and i like it. as far as loud go i know its a difference from the 300, to the 400/430 but my exhaust sounds a little quieter than the infinity g35 exhaust standing outside of the car while my fiancee drives it, BUt it sounds a little louder insde the car while she drives it, all in all i dont regret it.

where can i get a set of used ones @ and how much is the difference from a set of new ones, i think the new tein will be out in a couple months but they dont know what the price will be, and if i do get the cs's how could i get rid of the ss is there anybody on here interested in the ss i've only had them on my car for 2 weeks and drove 235 miles on them.

Hey neo, I just got the tein ss on my gs300 my personal opinion it is alittle stiff i live in the city where the roads are f';.ed up i am comparing to the factory ride. Don't grt me wrong i love them over stock im just thinking of getting softer springs. they really feel great on the high way. I was looking into the cs befor the ss, I was looking for a factory ride and to even the front with the rear being though i have a stereo sytem and the car use to sit uneven. the ss gave me the even front to rear but not quit the factory ride. Do u think going from 780lb front, and 670lb spring rate in rear to the 670lb front, and 560lb rear spring rate would give me closer to a factory ride, just wondering if it would make a noticable difference. do you have any issues with noise with these? We have had a fair few UK guys complaining about noise from the mounts. This was with Tein Flex on their IS's. ← Been kind of busy but I always try to find some time to check in. I don't always have time to post though. :( Colin is dead on with the noise issue. The metal pillowmount in the Flex better connects the driver to the road. It does give better feedback. The downside with road feedback feel is that noise comes with it. When I went from Flex to CS, I did not like the drive experience since the CS feel was so muted. This was good noise-wise but bad for drive feel. After some driving though, I got used to it and feel that the CS is a better match for a luxury car. The handling is still pretty good. It is deceptive since there is less feedback. Deceptive or not, though, the Flex is definitely a better road carver. As for the SS, I am surprised that it would drive as nice as the CS. I guess it depends how they build the shocks portion as there is no specs on this for comparison. Looking at the spring rates, though, the SS are pretty stiff. The springs are along the lines of the old HAs (and even stiffer in the rear) which were stiffer than the Flex. I can't imagine it riding as stock as the CS can. I can't say for sure, though, as I've never been in a car with the SS. It would be quite a feat for Tein to build a coilover that is cost effective (vs the Flex and CS), carves up the road (based on the spring rate), while riding like OEM (depending on how the shocks are valved). I can give them the first two points but I will need to test out an install to see if they were able to achieve the last since the shocks would also have to overcome the stiff spring rate. I would doubt it, though, since I think everyone would be on SS instead and I have not seen a movement to that with other GS owners.

Hey guy's i just got my tein ss put on my 98 gs300 today, & i was trying 2 get the rear even with the front of i was wondering for guy's out there that have a system in their car how high do ya'll have ur rear coil overs because mine is 3 to 4 threads from the top and its still not even enough i do' want to really lower the front anymore becaus of rubbing. My front is about an 1/2" away from the fender in the front, & in the rear 1/4 of the tire is tucked into the rear fender. Also when i got home i noticed that i still have 2 bump rubber's that is still new in the box i dont know if they forgot to put them on, or not. Is this a major thing to worry about .

We'll maybe u guys can help me out im only getting 16-18 mpg with a mixture of both city, and highway. What would be a good idea to increase my gas mileage, only thing i can think of for the 4 yrs that ive had my car i never put fuel injection cleaner in my tank although i have always religously used premium gas in my tank. Any 1 please help the situation.

Hey turbo i just e-mailed ya holla back. (kennyg1221@yahoo.com)

Doesn't matter, yes there is some voltage drop to the rear, but 12.4 means it's not being charged like it should. It should be 13.9 minimum, anywhere in the car. You obviously are putting way to much of a load on your alternator and it won't be lasting long. The dual batteries are not helping any. Just because it works, doesn't make it RIGHT!!! however, in this case it's just barely working. ← 13.9 anywhere in the car huh? you got your facts messed up man. 13.9 should be at main battery. Wire can drop your voltage by alot then there are accessories along the way and amps in the back. It'll never be 13.9 at the trunk. Your talking voltage here and not current. As long as your not having problems and your lights aren't blinking its fine. And it must be a good alt then cause almost 2 years now and its still running strong. :P Not trying to argue with you man what i have works and its fine and will last. Any way vtoney you say your voltage drops but its fine at your battery? Where are you checking the voltage when it drops? And whas your system playing while you were checking the voltage at the battery? I will still emphasis that you upgrade your ground wires and your alternator wires they help alot. I would strongly have to disagree with u it is very possible to get 13.9v to the rear battery.atually the difference in vlotage would be .2 max if every thing is wired correctly and with the rear amps on.

I've had 2 sets of 20s on my gs300 the first set was vault elixers (knock off giovani corsica's) and i liked them but i had alot of rubbing i had 255/35/r20 faulkens @ first then went 2 wanli's off of ebay, well i had 25psi in the rear driver side wheel on day as i was driving to a gas station 2 get some air in my tire i hit a f+_:ing pot hole a pretty big one and cracked the rim. I went and brought me a set of 20" TIS 03's with 245/35/r20. Tires are toyo proxes t1r and i get no rubbing the point is what ever u do get the right off set and keep air in ur tires,lol. personnaly i love 20's. Just 2 let u know also i would go with 8.5 width if u plan on dropping it,.

HEY I HAVE A SET THAT I CAN SELL YA EMAIL ME @ KENNYG1221@YAHOO.COM