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91 Ls400 Timing Belt, Water Pump, Tuneup


vyhanh

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Hi,

Well, my son's 91 LS400 hit my pocket big time !!!! $2500 parts and labor (at indie and not dealership $72 per hour) for:

1. Timing belt

2. Water pump

3. Ignition coils

3. Ignition caps and rotors

4. Plug wires

5. New coolant reservoir

6. New coolant sensor (off the reservoir)

Car is going good. Will take 3 hrs long drive this pm to really test the mileage.

What do you guys think?

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Hi,

Well, my son's 91 LS400 hit my pocket big time !!!! $2500 parts and labor (at indie and not dealership $72 per hour) for:

1. Timing belt

2. Water pump

3. Ignition coils

3. Ignition caps and rotors

4. Plug wires

5. New coolant reservoir

6. New coolant sensor (off the reservoir)

Car is going good. Will take 3 hrs long drive this pm to really test the mileage.

What do you guys think?

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That's a very, very, very expensive....

$60 TB

$115 h2o pump

$140 both coils

$60 caps and rotors

$115 wires

$12 coolant recovery tank

$60 coolant sensor

$40 fluids-coolant/tranny fluid

total: $602 for the parts. Parts prices from Park Place Plano.

Let's give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt and say that he bought the parts from the dealer for $1000 which leaves $1500 in labor which comes to more than 20 hours of labor, and if it takes him 20 hours to do those tasks, he should seek a new career path. No pulleys, tensioner, no oil seal replacements? That could be a problem in the years to come. A Lexus dealer wouldn't even charge that much! What was the breakdown on the receipt?

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Hi,

Well, my son's 91 LS400 hit my pocket big time !!!! $2500 parts and labor (at indie and not dealership $72 per hour) for:

1. Timing belt

2. Water pump

3. Ignition coils

3. Ignition caps and rotors

4. Plug wires

5. New coolant reservoir

6. New coolant sensor (off the reservoir)

Car is going good. Will take 3 hrs long drive this pm to really test the mileage.

What do you guys think?

Frankly, you got ripped off IMO. The shop probably had some trouble with your car and charged you the extra hours over standard book time. At an independent shop, I'd say you were overcharged 500.00 minimum. Why did you have the coolant reservoir replaced? What was wrong with the sensor?

I bought the TB, WP, all the seals, all the pullies [150+ alone], and an air and fuel filter from Seawell Lexus in dallas for 400.00, and that includes TX tax.

I did all the labor myself in about 30 hours, and I am FAR from a mechanic. In fact, I missed a washer and did the whole process TWICE in that amount of time. I also had NO power tools and used a VERY time consuming chain wrench tool I was unfamiliar with to remove the crank/cam pulleys.

I'd certainly make sure all the idle pullies and tensioner were replaced as well as the 2 cam and 1 crank seal for that price.

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Hi,

Thanks for your replies. Yes, I think I know that I was ripped off but it was an urgent situation. The problems happend so fast within a week and he needed the car for school. First, the car lost power and ran very rough. As a matter of fact, it was not like a V8 and could not make it up a hill (due to both coils gone, plug wires cracked, bad sparkplugs). Then, there were engine noises (in restrospect, made by the water pump). I got the manuals but do not have time to order parts online and also work on the car. Yes, the 2 idlers and tensioner were also replaced. I got all the old parts back and the new parts were from Lexus dealer. New Iridium NGK plugs put in. Phosphate-free coolant (kind used in MB and BMW also red in color ) put in. The coolant sensor was replaced because it was damaged when the reservoir had a crack in it. This explains my earlier post about loosing coolant but I could not find the leak.

Long trip last night returned 25-27 mpg (doing 70 freeway with few quick accelerations to 85-90). Dash temp gauge showed fluctuations between half mark and lower (ie cooler) marks.

Please tell me:

1. The manual says that the coolant level in the reservoir should be between HOT and COLD when the engine is cold, but the level keeps staying just below the COLD level mark.

2. The engine idles at 950. Should it be at 850?

Thanks

VH

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Hi,

Thanks for your replies. Yes, I think I know that I was ripped off but it was an urgent situation. The problems happend so fast within a week and he needed the car for school. First, the car lost power and ran very rough. As a matter of fact, it was not like a V8 and could not make it up a hill (due to both coils gone, plug wires cracked, bad sparkplugs). Then, there were engine noises (in restrospect, made by the water pump). I got the manuals but do not have time to order parts online and also work on the car. Yes, the 2 idlers and tensioner were also replaced. I got all the old parts back and the new parts were from Lexus dealer. New Iridium NGK plugs put in. Phosphate-free coolant (kind used in MB and BMW also red in color ) put in. The coolant sensor was replaced because it was damaged when the reservoir had a crack in it. This explains my earlier post about loosing coolant but I could not find the leak.

Long trip last night returned 25-27 mpg (doing 70 freeway with few quick accelerations to 85-90). Dash temp gauge showed fluctuations between half mark and lower (ie cooler) marks.

Please tell me:

1. The manual says that the coolant level in the reservoir should be between HOT and COLD when the engine is cold, but the level keeps staying just below the COLD level mark.

2. The engine idles at 950. Should it be at 850?

Thanks

VH

I'm glad they at least replaced the idlers as well, but you didn't mention the seals unless I missed it, which are at least equally as important.

You will probably have to continually add fluid [i'm assuming it was done correctly by the shop the first time it was filled] until it settles. Not abnormal when you remove all the fluid. As long as the temp guage doesn't go over the half mark, you are doing fine. 950 is a little high, but I'd give it some time to adjust and go lower, say 500 miles, before making a fuss about it as long as it is a smooth idle.

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