nc211 Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 Done....it was cake for me! Didn't have to warm up the engine, no need for a punch, just a set of channel locks. The hardest part for me was figuring out the electric connector. I had to remove the solenoid with the electric connector attached before I could get a better look at how it went together. I've also got a hole in one of the screens....does this mean I need a new solenoid, or can I just get a new screen and put it in there? MAN!! WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Wow, I'm amazed at how easy it is to steer this thing now. I thought it was good before, but now? Night and day difference. Here are a bunch of pictures of the process :D Total time was maybe an hour.
Arkansawyer Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 That makes me feel better. A while back when I flushed the ps fluid and solenoid screen I found a hole in mine as well. I wonder if all the pressure from it being clogged causes the fluid to push a hole through the screen?
Gumart1 Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 Great Pics! Very easy to see - Great job too - I wonder why yours was so easy to remove? If someone had cleaned it before or just that you have a newer LS than us Gen I's or your climate or luck of the draw? I cleaned exactly the same part, but I asked a while back if the solenoid disassembled even more to reveal more screen. Not sure if I found the answer. But my steering did improve dramatically. You should probably add that return line filter to catch any particles that pass through the solenoid screen. There's almost nothing left to do, right?! ;)
monarch Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 Best pictures we've ever seen nc211. I guess it's too late now, but it would be neat to see a picture of how you gripped the solenoid with the channel locks and which way you turned it to loosen it. Also, after you cleaned and reinstalled the solenoid, what procedure did you use to refill and bleed the PS system to avoid all the hard steering problems some other owners have experienced?
nc211 Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 Thank you guys, yeah I think I was FINALLY blessed with one of those "luck of the draw" wild cards out there! I think I had earned at least one! hahaha Monarch, I grabbed the top part of the solenoid, at the bolt section. The channel lock handle was towards the driver's side tire, and I pushed it foward, towards the front of the car. Basically, I went clockwise to loosen it, counterclockwise to tighten it, the opposite of what we're used to doing for screws. It took maybe 15 lb's of force? Not too much. I'm wondering since I did not allow the system to warm up, if it might have been easier for me due to no pressure build up in the system?? Not sure, just a thought. I think I just got lucky. It did drain a good bit of fluid, enough to drain the resivour dry. After I got it back on, I put some fluid in the resivour, backed it down the ramps than immediately shut it off "pump was making a horrible noise, knew it was low on fluid". I then jacked up the front with (1) my craftsman floor jack on the driver's side and the (2) car's jack from the trunk on the passenger's side. I filled up the resivour again and did 25 side to side turns with the steering wheel, with the engine off. Checked the fluid, seemed to hold steady, so I started the car, and did 25 side to side again, with wheels still up in the air. No foam, no bubbles in the fluid. However, I should say that I did the Lexls flush about 8 weeks ago already, so the fluid was already pretty new to begin with. I have a bunch of leftover fluid from it that I used today. Put the cap on, put the car back on the ground, and went for a drive around the neighborhood, big willey style. Steers great now, but I think I'm going to investigate a new solenoid soon due to that torn screen. Question: That BIG hex plug in the bottom of the rack, is that to drain the power steering fluid? I've circled it on this picture below. Great Pics! Very easy to see - Great job too - I wonder why yours was so easy to remove? If someone had cleaned it before or just that you have a newer LS than us Gen I's or your climate or luck of the draw? I cleaned exactly the same part, but I asked a while back if the solenoid disassembled even more to reveal more screen. Not sure if I found the answer. But my steering did improve dramatically. You should probably add that return line filter to catch any particles that pass through the solenoid screen. There's almost nothing left to do, right?! ;) Yeah I was thinking about one of those filters too. I'll have to investigate that a little bit....time for me to do a search.. ...almost nothing left to do?? Hahahaha.... I'm just getting warmed up! hahahaha.. Some call me the village idiot around here for a reason! Hahaha!!
RFeldes Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 Confused Hamma...If you were under the car pushing on the left side tire forward...wouldn't that be counter-clockwise Same as a screw? Experiment: Now get on the floor and put your Channel locks in your hand and turn the way you described. LOL forward left side. Okay..now get a screwdriver and turn it the way you described..Is it not Counter-clockwise? "Lefty loosey Righty tighty". Am I wrong??? Damn Cat Litter!! :chairshot: LOL Sometimes, I get confused when I'm on top or Bottom, which way to turn the Screw.
nc211 Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 I need some of that cat litter... I stand corrected, to loosen it, it is clockwise. to tighten it, it is counter clockwise. Ralph, man, how much for a "baggie" of the good stuff? ;) edit: man i'm all over the place here, rainman confussed. from looking up at it, with my feet towards the back wheels, head towards the front wheels, it's.....arghhh....crap....this is why I failed engineering 101. hahaha. all i know is the channel lock's handle was pointing out, towards the driver's side of the car, and I pushed them foward towards the front, and it came loose. Whew....Hamma' needs some beverages....be back later...
RFeldes Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 You're hurtin me......LOL Great job and great pictures!!! I believe that bolt is to drain the P/S fluid from the rack so you don't sniff too much of it prior to cleaning the solenoid which could cause hallucinations..Same affect as Cat Litter. Can't remember seeing it on my 90 when I cleaned that same screen..and you are right..night and day difference in the steering. Maybe management can clean this up and make it a topic as it is "so important" for that screen to be cleared in order to put a halt to all the P/S pump problems. I am not a mechanic and am not sure in an in-line filter would be as fine a mesh. Me, personally, I would replace the solenoid and screen if it was torn as I don't think you can replace just the screen. And I could be wrong..It's happened before..two marriages :whistles: Maybe you could find a price for the solenoid/filter since you are so familiar with the service department..LOL had to get that in..HE,HE but Love your tenacity and your posts.
Gumart1 Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 You definitely turned the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. It's easy to get confused when you are lying down. I always imagine if I sat upright and also turned the car upright 90 degrees so the undercarriage is in front of me. Now you are looking at that solenoid nut and turning it left (counter). If you placed the wrench at the 3pm position you would turn it towards midnight. What you did specifically was start at about 9pm and turn it towards 6pm - OK I'm confusing myself now! But hopefully you get the idea. The inline filter I installed was an A1 Cardone Premium Magnetic Inline Filter. I believe the actual filter said Magneflow on it. It is $17.12 plus shipping at Rockauto.com. Sorry I didn't take pics during the install but it took no more than 10 minues to add before replacing my return hose to the pump. It comes with 2 new clamps - it was a tight fit but it worked. I intend to replace it yearly with every flush but it does have a bypass on it in case it gets clogged.
Threadcutter Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 You definitely turned the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. It's easy to get confused when you are lying down. I always imagine if I sat upright and also turned the car upright 90 degrees so the undercarriage is in front of me. Now you are looking at that solenoid nut and turning it left (counter). If you placed the wrench at the 3pm position you would turn it towards midnight. What you did specifically was start at about 9pm and turn it towards 6pm - OK I'm confusing myself now! But hopefully you get the idea. The inline filter I installed was an A1 Cardone Premium Magnetic Inline Filter. I believe the actual filter said Magneflow on it. It is $17.12 plus shipping at Rockauto.com. Sorry I didn't take pics during the install but it took no more than 10 minues to add before replacing my return hose to the pump. It comes with 2 new clamps - it was a tight fit but it worked. I intend to replace it yearly with every flush but it does have a bypass on it in case it gets clogged. NC & Gum: The solenoid is a simple device. Apply 12 VDC; if it clicks & the plunger moves, it works. Apply 12 Vdc; No click, no plunger movement, it's DEAD. Has NOTHING to do with the screen/filter. Just buy a new screen, not a new solenoid. If the "old" screen has a hole in it, someone has had it (the solenoid) off before. That explains why your solenoid was "easy" to remove. To flush, I removed the screen from the solenoid entirely (temporarily) and re-installed the solenoid. I scabbed on a return hose extension into a coffee can and ran about 4 to 5 quarts of P/S fluid through the system until it came out the return tube (extension into the coffee can) clean. Once it ran clean, I replaced the screen onto the solenoid, topped off the fluid in the reservoir, started the car, 10 turns left, 10 right, put the wheel back on, off the jack and around the block. Life is good......
nc211 Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 Thread, I'm interested in how to replace just the screen. Is it a needle nose pliers type of thing, not hard to do? Or a little bit more involved than that? I will definetly NOT be replacing the solenoid as I just checked, it's a part of the control valve assembly, at $450 buck! So, no way until it just breaks completely. My next concern is the screen in the bottom of the resivior canister...it's filthy! Can I just pull it out with some needle nose pliers as well, clean it, and put it back in, or more involved also? I really don't want to take the thing apart to get to it. Was thinking maybe just using my slim attachment for my shop vac and seeing if that won't pull the dirt up from the screen as well.
Threadcutter Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 Thread, I'm interested in how to replace just the screen. Is it a needle nose pliers type of thing, not hard to do? Or a little bit more involved than that? I will definetly NOT be replacing the solenoid as I just checked, it's a part of the control valve assembly, at $450 buck! So, no way until it just breaks completely. My next concern is the screen in the bottom of the resivior canister...it's filthy! Can I just pull it out with some needle nose pliers as well, clean it, and put it back in, or more involved also? I really don't want to take the thing apart to get to it. Was thinking maybe just using my slim attachment for my shop vac and seeing if that won't pull the dirt up from the screen as well. n: I'm interested in how to replace just the screen. With the solenoid removed (obviously), "walk" the screen up the circumference of the solenoid "nipple" (ya' gettin" hot yet?). I used a single edge razor blade. Any (very) thin piece of metal will work. Hmmmmm....maybe even a feeler gauge. Keep the needlenose in the tool box. It wasn't very difficult; just be patient or you'll tear the screen, The marvel of Modern Engineering that it is.......NOT! Sorry, but it really is a little POS. I will definetly NOT be replacing the solenoid as I just checked, it's a part of the control valve assembly, at $450 buck! So, no way until it just breaks completely. Yepper!..................You don't need to. My next concern is the screen in the bottom of the resivior canister...it's filthy! Can I just pull it out with some needle nose pliers as well, clean it, and put it back in, or more involved also? I really don't want to take the thing apart to get to it. Was thinking maybe just using my slim attachment for my shop vac and seeing if that won't pull the dirt up from the screen as well. I solved that question with a re-man pump.........didn't have to deal with it. I thought someone did a nice thread on the reservoir screen clean/replace. I'd look, but I'm in the middle a 6 inch (8 fingers) Johnny Walker Black. I doubt you'd find the results of my search very useful. You should probably invest in a turkey baster to suck out the excess fluid, then GIVE the shop Vac a try. I would. Otherwise, you'll have to remove the reservoir from the pump "in situ" (cool word, saw it the other day....), which will be a PITA. BTW, It's all that crap, most of which you can see, that ultimately kills your P/S Pump (& your rack, & your alternator, etc.........)
Threadcutter Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 Done....it was cake for me! Didn't have to warm up the engine, no need for a punch, just a set of channel locks. The hardest part for me was figuring out the electric connector. I had to remove the solenoid with the electric connector attached before I could get a better look at how it went together. I've also got a hole in one of the screens....does this mean I need a new solenoid, or can I just get a new screen and put it in there? MAN!! WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Wow, I'm amazed at how easy it is to steer this thing now. I thought it was good before, but now? Night and day difference. Here are a bunch of pictures of the process :D Total time was maybe an hour. n: Gawd!...........You could have made a motorcycle tire out of all the rubber that came off that screen! BTW........Mine looked just like yours........
ko90ls Posted March 24, 2006 Posted March 24, 2006 Just Removed Solenoid! :D :D :D use the primative hammer and chisel! screwdriver was too small, vice grips locked but didn't turn, i also went to pep boys and bought a "universal non scaring rotation tool" but i wouldn't grip (couldn't figure out use). the thing that was hardest about the chisel was the fact that you might have it too high and grind into the R&P. i was, then i moved it down a bit and one good strike (like others have noted ) and the thing turned. i didn't even notice until the chisel mark wasn't there. also might wanna keep some vice grips in case it stopps turning (mine did multiple times). also the wire connectors just pop out, sorta like the trunk lining (simple plastic tabs, use medium force!) hope this helps others and... Good Luck!
monarch Posted March 24, 2006 Posted March 24, 2006 hope this helps others What would really help is a photo or two. Like many others, I'm waiting patiently (2 years and counting) for someone to post a photo(s) of how they removed the solenoid. There's so much that can go wrong when attempting removal and so much at stake (a $2,000 steering rack) that I'm not willing to chance it until I see a photo showing exactly what needs to be done to remove the solenoid.
ko90ls Posted March 24, 2006 Posted March 24, 2006 hope this helps others What would really help is a photo or two. Like many others, I'm waiting patiently (2 years and counting) for someone to post a photo(s) of how they removed the solenoid. There's so much that can go wrong when attempting removal and so much at stake (a $2,000 steering rack) that I'm not willing to chance it until I see a photo showing exactly what needs to be done to remove the solenoid. Monarch, as easy as the procedure sounds.... it's ten times easier! seriously, i used the pic you posted showing the turning direction and exactly where to place the chisel and hammer (sorry no Digi Cam yet :( ) i already had a chisel slot on the unit but i didn't use it, and also had a small rip in one section of the screen. but a madium sized (medium as in about a half inch wide) chisel and good hammer hit did the trick. like i said be sure to not hit the R&P but if so (you'll see scars) move the chisel down a bit and.... WHACK! thing turned! when i get a cam, next week i'll show you the position! also cleaning was a breeze but tedious. used LOTS and LOTS of WD-40 (Brakleen spout broke) and a small sowing pin. i scraped the black gunk into oblivilion (spelling) then washed it out with the WD and shop towels. Done, thanks guys! also replaced return line. aftermarket shops think it's pressurized and will all say "Go to the dealer" so i did. good people! the whole line down to the R&P was $125 but i showed the tech what i needed and he said that a regular power steering hose was all i needed. $12 and when you remove the hose hardly and ATF will spill, so don't worry!
ko90ls Posted March 25, 2006 Posted March 25, 2006 one more thing while it's still fresh! when flushing i didn't start the car, alt possibly dying again(another story) so i jacked both sides up and used the lock-to-lock method to drain. here's what i've discovered: 20 rotations empties a full(to the brim) pump reservoir to the bottom of the dipstick and 30 is all the way. wouldn't go more than 30 to be safe! :D
monarch Posted March 25, 2006 Posted March 25, 2006 ko90ls, are you saying you removed the return hose then just jacked up the front end of the car and then WITHOUT starting the engine you turned the wheel lock to lock 20-30 rotations and it emptied the PS fluid reservoir?
Leadfoot Posted March 25, 2006 Posted March 25, 2006 NC & Gum: The solenoid is a simple device. Apply 12 VDC; if it clicks & the plunger moves, it works. Apply 12 Vdc; No click, no plunger movement, it's DEAD. Has NOTHING to do with the screen/filter. Just buy a new screen, not a new solenoid. Guys, the 12V check is fine, but you must check the resistance is also within spec. Ambient temperature you should have 6 to 11 ohms. You can check the resistance with the unit still mounted in the rack, just undo the connector seal, then pull the connector apart. Put an ohmeter across the solenoid terminals. The solenoid position is controlled by the ECU, as road speed increases it moves, controlling the flow through the flow dividing valve. Thus the amount of power assist is controlled by the solenoid position and the position of the flow dividing valve. It is a positioning device, not just a on/off device so it is important that the resistance is correct. The screen is oddly enough on the outlet from the flow dividing valve, so the filter stops crap going to the pump. The actual flow rate is small since the pressure bleedoff is handled through the dividing valve. Mine came off easy but had holes in it. I replaced the rack and was told a new screen was installed, but will check this summer when I am next under the car, as it is not sold as separate part. cheers!
ko90ls Posted March 25, 2006 Posted March 25, 2006 ko90ls, are you saying you removed the return hose then just jacked up the front end of the car and then WITHOUT starting the engine you turned the wheel lock to lock 20-30 rotations and it emptied the PS fluid reservoir? Sure did. Took a LONG time but sine the alt is bad i didn't wanna prematurely kill the battery form too many starts! i used a piece of 3/8" O.D. clear tubing and shoved it into the return hose, then used the clamp to secure it. some fluid leaked but the shop towels were there! Hey Leadfoot i found the manuals "official" Solenoid bump test! Only for the 90-91! steering_system_electronic.pdf
Threadcutter Posted March 27, 2006 Posted March 27, 2006 Lead: The screen is oddly enough on the outlet from the flow dividing valve, so the filter stops crap going to the pump. The actual flow rate is small since the pressure bleedoff is handled through the dividing valve. Thanks for the enlightenment on the functioning of the solenoid position(ing). I'll have to dig up the tech info to see just how they accomplish posiotioning in an "open loop" system (referring to the solenoid only). I had wondered if maybe the location of the screen wasn't on the outlet.......... I believe that may imply that Lexus engineers were more concerned about contaminants wearing out the P/S Pump prematurely than they were about harm coming to the solenoid. But, because of the way the screen gets clogged, the majority of the contaminants MUST be coming from the pump "on the first pass"; meaning that probably very little of the contaminants are re-circulating through the system over and over. I've given serious consideration to removing the screen altogether and putting a large & efficient filter in the return line back to the P/S Pump Reservior. This is the low pressure side of the system, so finding a suitable filter is no problem. In fact, there is at least one thread here where one or more posters put the large filter in. They even supplied the Rock Auto P/N. If I remember correctly, the filter was at least opaque, if not clear, such that you could see the color/quality of your fluid at a glance. I'm very interested in your thoughts about doing that.
ko90ls Posted March 27, 2006 Posted March 27, 2006 Here you go Monarch and others. the pic shows the line on the left edge of the solenoid. the pic isn't too good but you should be able to make it out. P.S. i took the tire off
nc211 Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 Gawd!...........You could have made a motorcycle tire out of all the rubber that came off that screen! BTW........Mine looked just like yours........ I was wondering...where is this rubber coming from? Would it be in the rack, and taken as an indication the rack is worn pretty badly internally??
lexlover1 Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 Surely you jest! New to the forum, just bought my 95 LS a few days ago. Great forum by the way. Have been reading everything I can about the good and bad points of the ls and came to the conclusion the power steering is the weakest link. Have read all of the posts I can find about flushing the system. Saw all of the pictures of the solenoid with the tiny screen in the end. Never attempted it yet but I beleive from what I have seen I will be able to remove it. My question is after I remove the solenoid, is that where I drain the system from? Figure with that off the fluid will flow from there if the wheels are turned. If the reservoir is attended and kept full, should be able to keep the fluid flowing until the fluid is coming out clean without letting any air into the system. I might be totally wrong but any info would definitly be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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