lexlover1

Hi guys I have a 95 ls which has been in storage for about a year now. Fuel was stabalized and all was well when parked. Tried today, rolls over great battery is fully charged. Not a chance of a kick or any sign of the engine starting. I also have an es 300 sitting beside it in the same conditions and it fired fine. Can anyone please give me a few pointers on where to start looking for my problem. Thanks

Has anyone on this site or know anybody that has a 95 that broke a timing belt? Did it damage the engine? Always wondered and have never saw any posts about this I mean real experiences? Also what exactly was done in 95 to change the engine? Thanks very much for replies.

Where exactly is the electric tension reducer connections? What has to be taken apart to get to the connections/

Are all the ls engines interference? Or is it just the newer ones? I have read so many posts about interference or not I am confused. Supposedly the older es is not but the newer ones are, the newer ones have the variable timing.

Hello Mehullica could you please tell me where the DLC connector is located in a 93 es. I have replaced a wheel speed sensor and have to clear the code. thank you.

Let's take a step back. How did you end up with this problem? Did you do anything to cause this problem? ABS light doesn't just pop up unless there is a problem. Replaced the abs wheel sensor, now I need to reset the light since unhooking the power don't reset it.

Can somebody please tell me how to reset the abs light on a 93 es. I know I have saw it on here before but can't find it again thanks.

Well the time is here to remove the starter on my 95. Gathering all the info I can get before beginning. I see most of the guys have left the upper and lower intake manifolds together when removing them. Wondering if you can leave the throttle body bolted on to the intake, or does it have to come off? If so most of the posts that I have read there hasn't been any mention of replacing the gasket. In the manual it says this is a non-reusable item. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks Ed I have read on a few posts that removing the intake was the easy part. Getting the starter bolts and the starter out of position is the real bugger. I have seen lots of pictures and know exactly how it is removed, hopefully I have lots of tools. Just wondered if you could make a list of parts needed for the task. Not sure if you can see them or not but the starter bolts seem almost impossible to see with the intake on the engine. I mean I know where to look but I think it would be to great advantage to be tall to see and reach in there. Mine has been in storage for the cold months but coming out real soon. Was yours clicking or did it just stop working all at once? Mine has been a clicker for a while. Guessing you never got into the tearing apart of your old starter since you sent back the core, wondered how the contacts were inside. Thanks for the info much appreciated.

Your welcome. Wish i took some pics along the way, but I did not, too much frustration at times to take out the camera and snap pics. But I'll be here to answer any questions i can. Your welcome. Wish i took some pics along the way, but I did not, too much frustration at times to take out the camera and snap pics. But I'll be here to answer any questions i can. Hi Ed I am not young but have a strong back and have to do the dirty deed. Just wondered after you removed the intake and everything hooked to it, how long before the starter was removed. Thanks in advance.

Had my 95 on the highway for a rip, really impressed. I had my ls for about 6 months now and knew it was a real nice ride on the highway. This week I took it out on a section of new pavement and stomped her down. Once up over 85 to 95 things really started to happen, I was sunk back in the seat and was real impressed when it didn't shift the last time until right around 125. Driving just as smooth and quiet as could be. As far as I know these cars have a lock up torque converter and that is what happened at that speed but it certainly was still pulling good. I have seen several articles where they say the top speed for this car is 149 and after this experienceI can beleive that. Although I know this is totally illegal and would not suggest it I had to let off at that point but am going to put it to the limit in the near future. I certainly realize these cars were not made for this kind of driving. Whatever I drive I like to know what it will do, not like the guy with the new porche who will never know what happens if he holds his right foot down.

Do you have any idea where I might find rear antilock valve, combination valve? I think the front antilock valve is the one with all the lines going to it under the hood.

You still have air in your brake system. Did you use a power bleeder, or if not, did you bleed the brakes in the proper sequence? I used a one man bleeder and didn't know there was a proper sequence. The right rear was the problem, so I blead rr then lr. After I still had air in the systemI did both front. Have used this procedure on many vehicles over the years and never had a problem. However this is my first with abs if that makes a difference.

I recently had a rear brake line go bad on my 93es. After replacing the line, bleeding all 4 wheels. The pedal still goes down much further than it used to. After a few pumps it comes up almost normal but still not the same as they were before the line replacement. All suggestions appreciated.

Never had this issue with my old-school 98 but I know there is a way to see what is draining the battery; just can't remember. Maybe a search. I will look since I would like to know and help ya out. I fully charged the battery and it will stay fully charged but will only last a few days when hooked up. I have a volt meter, just not sure how to check how much drain is coming out of it., car is charging great when running.

I have a 93 300. All was fine for the last year now all of a sudden something is killing my battery with everything turned off. Anyone ever had this problem on an early ES model? Battery is just a year old and will hold a charge if left disconnected. Thanks for any replies in advance.

Thanks very much Monarch appreciate that.

Just wondered if anyone can tell me the proper way to check the transmission fluid in the 95ls. Manual doesn't say anything about checking the transmission fluid. I know there is a cold and hot marking on the stick. As far as I can figure the cold is just a reference mark. Is it best to leave it running at operating temperature and check in park? I find it really hard to get consistent readings, one side of the stick reads different than the other. I do realize it holds 8.2 liters empty. Flushed mine and added around 8.5 liters and seems to be as close as I can get to between the high and low levels at operating temperature. All advice is appreciated.

Ditto to that. Love the 20inch rims everything about the car and especially the photography skills which are a big part of these shots. I like the fountain and hard rock cafe back drops best.

I know on the honda accord 2 liter fuel injection you can set the idle.

:whistles: or any other throttle body cleaner (ie. CRC) for that matter, just make sure it says "safe for O2 sensors" on the side of the can. steviej Is there any tutorial on this subject on this site anywhere, throttle body cleaning. Thanks for the onfo guys.

I am new to the forum, have a 93 es300. Seems to idle real slow when warm, works great other than that. Wonder if anyone could give me some info on how to adjust the idle up a bit. Runs around 500rpm at idle and when in drive is to low for me. Thanks

While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line. And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer) While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line. And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer) While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line. And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer) While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line. And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer)

New to the forum, just bought my 95 LS a few days ago. Great forum by the way. Have been reading everything I can about the good and bad points of the ls and came to the conclusion the power steering is the weakest link. Have read all of the posts I can find about flushing the system. Saw all of the pictures of the solenoid with the tiny screen in the end. Never attempted it yet but I beleive from what I have seen I will be able to remove it. My question is after I remove the solenoid, is that where I drain the system from? Figure with that off the fluid will flow from there if the wheels are turned. If the reservoir is attended and kept full, should be able to keep the fluid flowing until the fluid is coming out clean without letting any air into the system. I might be totally wrong but any info would definitly be appreciated. Thanks in advance.