Multiple Codes - P1150, P1153, P1155, P0330

[sum_yun_gai]

My 1999 Lexus RX300 is showing the following 3 codes

P0330

KS 2 Circuit Malfunction (knock sensor?)

P1150

Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1153

Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1155

Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Any clues as to how to approach this? I'd really hate to spend nearly a thousand dollars replacing all these sensors if there's only a minor problem, or if one of the bad sensors malfunctioning is causing the others to throw codes..

Has anyone seen this before?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Seth

[sum_yun_gai]

No suggestions? Comments? At this point anything would be helpful.

Thanks!

My 1999 Lexus RX300 is showing the following 3 codes

P0330

KS 2 Circuit Malfunction  (knock sensor?)

P1150

Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1153

Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1155

Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Any clues as to how to approach this?  I'd really hate to spend nearly a thousand dollars replacing all these sensors if there's only a minor problem, or if one of the bad sensors malfunctioning is causing the others to throw codes..

Has anyone seen this before?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Seth

←

[SKperformance]

If you have that many codes then i would say it is not a simple problem.

Check the intake pipe for rips and clean your maf first.

Lots of threads on both things

[bluestu]

I would just replace the air/fuel ratio sensor on bank 2 sensor 1. Sometimes a bad air/fuel sensor can cause multiple codes. I know the code P1153 means you need to check or replace bank 2 sensor 1. I'm pretty sure the code for a bad bank 1 A/F sensor is P1130. I had a similar problem a few months ago and replaced the bank 2 sensor on the front manifold and all the codes that were reading cleared.

I did have a problem with Bosch selling me a defective sensor. If it's not labeled Bosch on the sensor, don't purchase it. Apparently Denso supplied Bosch with either the wrong part or a defective part. If you purchase one from Lexus or Toyota, it should be labeled Toyota/Denso.

[bluestu]

I found my code printout. Mine read the same as yours except for the P0330. I replaced Bank2, Sensor 1 on the front manifold, had the codes cleared, and the check engine light never came back on. I paid $190 for the Bosch A/F sensor. I put it on myself, but it was difficult to get off. Lexus Service Dept. told me if you're not careful you could strip the threads on the manifold. It shouldn't cost very much in labor. It took me about 20mins..

[sum_yun_gai]

Thank you all! I cleaned the MAF, and got a short-term improvement in performance, I am going to try to find the bank2 sensor1 O2 sensor today.

I'll let y'all know what happens!

Thanks,

Seth

[sum_yun_gai]

Couple of questions.

Is Bank2 Sensor1 before or after the catalyst? The parts stores don't seem to know what banks and sensor numbers are.

Also, one site states that the pre-cat sensors are required in pairs, which means that $200 sensor is now going to cost $400, for a pair. Is this true?

Thanks for any help!

Seth

[cardona6569]

Thank you all!  I cleaned the MAF, and got a short-term improvement in performance, I am going to try to find the bank2 sensor1 O2 sensor today.

I'll let y'all know what happens!

Thanks,

Seth

←

Hi: Make sure your air filter is clean as well, because if you maf was dirty so was the filter. Replace that first oxygen sensor. After you clear it use emissions test passer to clean out the system as well give it a good run on the highway, 65MPH if no lights come on during a two hours period you must be cured. Bad O2 sensors are a common trend on the Lexus family, make sure you are using the recommended gas for that SUV 91 octane or higher, do not use bad brands of gas. Texaco one of the best, I do not recommend Shell's defenda, since is made to help the American cars, not the Japanesse made.

C. PR

[bluestu]

Couple of questions.

Is Bank2 Sensor1 before or after the catalyst?  The parts stores don't seem to know what banks and sensor numbers are.

Also, one site states that the pre-cat sensors are required in pairs, which means that $200 sensor is now going to cost $400, for a pair.  Is this true?

Thanks for any help!

Seth

←

It's listed as an air/fuel ratio sensor. It is visible on the front exhaust manifold. There is also one on the rear manifold under the car and it is the same part number as the front one. You can definitely purchase them separately.

[sum_yun_gai]

It's listed as an air/fuel ratio sensor. It is visible on the front exhaust manifold. There is also one on the rear manifold under the car and it is the same part number as the front one. You can definitely purchase them separately.

Thanks! I changed the front sensor and the 'check engine' light went off for 30 miles, came back on for 50 miles, and has been off again for about the last 50 miles.

Here's hoping it's fixed!

[Chev-Hell]

you may want to run some fuel injection cleaner thru it also, along with cleaning the MAF again, all these codes indicate a lean mixture to me. too much air, not enough fuel, could be maf or fuel clogged up, also check/change the fuel filter if it's due..

[sum_yun_gai]

I ran the code scanner again tonight and got a code P0330 (Bank 2 knock sensor).

This sounds right on target with what I am seeing, so I'm going to do as you suggest and re-clean the MAF and run some fuel injector cleaner through.

Thanks a bunch for the advice!

you may want to run some fuel injection cleaner thru it also, along with cleaning the MAF again, all these codes indicate a lean mixture to me. too much air, not enough fuel, could be maf or fuel clogged up, also check/change the fuel filter if it's due..