Finally, My New Rx 300 Showed Up

[tealboy]

I mentioned that i finally pulled the trigger on a used certified lexus, 2002 rx 300 awd w/ 36k miles. It is white.

due to the hurricane and gas shortages, it did not get shipped out right away, but it arrived last night. I purchased it out of NY and had it shipped to florida since i was unable to find what i wanted and in the condition desired, in my local area.

this car is in fantastic shape inside and out. the only thing not perfect is under the hood, you can definately tell it was a car from up north. There is some amount of corrosion on nuts/bolts and some discoloration on the alternator and things like that. It doesn't seem excessive, but the evidence is clear.

not sure if there are any negative consequences of this or whether i should do anything to protect it from this point forward, but if you have suggestions, pls advise. overall, i am very pleased with the vehicle.

[RX in NC]

Vehicles from northern climates often bear considerable evidence of corrosive salt and chemical treatments used to get the roads passable again after snowstorms. The key to preventing and minimizing this effect is to thoroughly spray the complete underside and engine compartment immediately after each trip out in these conditions. As you would surmise, very few northern owners do this because it can be messy and difficult to get your outdoor faucets and hoses working in subfreezing conditions. And you're really wasting your time and money by trying to do this at a commercial carwash while there's still melting snow on the roads because by the time you drive home again, you've once again coated your underside with whatever is on the roads.

So your damage is probably done. You'll see the corrosion spread over time. But if you keep your underside and engine compartment relatively clean yourself, it may be that you can greatly slow down the progress of the corrosion for quite awhile.

Your current experience explains why many of us living in the mid-Atlantic states would never purchase a vehicle from up north. In my opinion, the likelihood of gradual corrosion from prolonged exposure to road salt and chemicals is too great for me to be willing to take a chance.

But since you already have, keep that chassis clean and lubed and perhaps you can successfully fight the battle. Keep us posted on how it goes.

[SKperformance]

What a way to make the guy feel like he just purchased a lemon that is about to rust out on him RX.

Any car that is looked after is less likely to rust.

My 94 ES300 has no rust but i am sure i can find some under it .

It is part of owning a car that even normal rain will cause it to show some corrosion.

If they have oil spray rust inhibitors in Florida get it shot with that stuff after a good amount of power washing in the tiny nooks and crannies and it will be fine.

[RX in NC]

You missed the point, SK. He asked for advice on rust protection. Having a bit of experience on this topic from several friends' vehicles brought down from the Northeast, I offered him the suggestion that he keep his underbody and engine compartment clean and he'll probably have a much better chance of inhibiting current and future corrosion. Nothing was either written or implied about his vehicle being a lemon about to rust out on him. From his description of the vehicle, it sounds relatively solid.

[tealboy]

i must admit, i didn't feel real good after reading the post. i thought about it all afternoon, thinking i should not have bought the car, lol. Of well, on the outside and inside, it is truly immaculate and even ;came w/ brand new tires. I was just a little surprised to see the discoloration and such from the salt. It isn't bad, but living in fl my whole life, that was new.

anyway, i saw a gallon jug of LPS Rust Inhibitor in the store, on clearance for $5. I need to make sure it can go on the engine, but that product may be perfect. Any suggestions on a product that better fits the bill, pls advise. I will wash thoroughly and put a coat of it on the engine.

[katzjamr]

i would be really careful washing any engine if at all its so easy to get electronic parts wet in places water doesnt normally go.

[JDC]

Personally, I wouldn't be overly concerned about it. I own a 2002 RX and here in Nova Scotia, Canada we're forced to use a pile of salt on our roads (not to mention the salty coastal air). Toyota products hold up very well here (easily 10 years in really very brutal conditions - lots of precipitation etc - similar to Maine).

Enjoy your RX and don't fret your corrosion issues. It'll serve you well for many many years.

Jim

[RX in NC]

The key to washing an engine compartment is to be very careful around the electronic components while doing so. Foam spray engine cleaners such as Gunk can do a good job if you follow the directions properly and minimize the amount of water used in the rinse process afterwards. If you're using a garden hose rather than a pressure washer, adjust your nozzle to the finest mist spray possible. Keep in mind that a pressure washer uses far less water than a garden hose does and therefore it does not soak the area nearly as much as holding a garden hose on it will. Just be careful not to get the tip of the pressure washer too close to the components since you could wind up perforating hoses or wire insulation if your pressure washer is rated fairly high (2,500 psi or above). If you keep your wand tip at least 18 inches away from the surface you're spraying, you're going to be fine. Just make two or three quick passes of all foamed areas and you're done. A little water goes a long way in this particular job.

When you're done rinsing, be sure to run the engine for five minutes or so to hasten the evaporation process of any remaining water under the hood.