Newbie Question: Sealt, Chip Protection, Etc

[vxg]

Hi all, I'm new here and will soon be (fingers crossed) the owner of a Black Onyx 2005 ES330. Now the dealer tries to sell you three things (1) paint protection - i.e. some sort of sealant; (2) Chip guard based on a 3M product for the front of the hood, headlights, mirrors, etc. and (3) leather and uphostery protection.

I plan to decline these but I know black onyx does not have a clear coat (thanks to this forum). So my question to the wise out there - how much of this stuff is really useful? I know I can get them all done from local detail shops for a lot less than the dealer is proposing - but even then I'd only want to do it if it was useful.

For the record I'm in the Seattle, WA area - plenty of elements that may impact the paint on the new car.

thanks for any advise.

VXG

[SKperformance]

The paint protection is worth every cent but ca always be found cheaper from the same places if done direct. $400 is the most for an amazing complete job.

Paint protection is nothgin more than a wax.

int protection is a waste as well.

[vxg]

Thanks for the advice. What about this 3M chip guard product - its some sort of clear urathane film that is placed over the hood, front bumper, headlights, mirrors, etc to guard against road chip damage.

I'm concerned that it would be similar to the impact of clearcoading Black - it sort of dulls it out. Does anyone here have any experience with this product?

The paint protection is worth every cent but ca always be found cheaper from the same places if done direct. $400 is the most for an amazing complete job.

Paint protection is nothgin more than a wax.

int protection is a waste as well.

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[LexKid630]

Thanks for the advice.  What about this 3M chip guard product - its some sort of clear urathane film that is placed over the hood, front bumper, headlights, mirrors, etc to guard against road chip damage. 

I'm concerned that it would be similar to the impact of clearcoading Black - it sort of dulls it out.  Does anyone here have any experience with this product?

The paint protection is worth every cent but ca always be found cheaper from the same places if done direct. $400 is the most for an amazing complete job.

Paint protection is nothgin more than a wax.

int protection is a waste as well.

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I have always declined that 3M film on the front of the bumpers. Mostly because it looks like crap.

All it is is a thin film that is glued (well kinda) to the front bumper and half of the hood. The only thing is, you can see where it is and isn't. It looks like a scratch halfway across the hood. And, this stuff doesn't show rock chips etc, so after a month or so, the rest of the car has a few sand chips, and the area with the 3M stuff looks clean. I just don't like it.

And, if you ever decide to remove it after a year or two, you will be able to see the spot where it was/wasn't. the part where it wasn't, you will see that it has mison rock chips etc....

i personally wouldn't put in on a $39,000 car, but if you want to, then go right ahead..

[vxg]

Thanks for the advice.  What about this 3M chip guard product - its some sort of clear urathane film that is placed over the hood, front bumper, headlights, mirrors, etc to guard against road chip damage.  

I'm concerned that it would be similar to the impact of clearcoading Black - it sort of dulls it out.  Does anyone here have any experience with this product?

The paint protection is worth every cent but ca always be found cheaper from the same places if done direct. $400 is the most for an amazing complete job.

Paint protection is nothgin more than a wax.

int protection is a waste as well.

←

←

I have always declined that 3M film on the front of the bumpers. Mostly because it looks like crap.

All it is is a thin film that is glued (well kinda) to the front bumper and half of the hood. The only thing is, you can see where it is and isn't. It looks like a scratch halfway across the hood. And, this stuff doesn't show rock chips etc, so after a month or so, the rest of the car has a few sand chips, and the area with the 3M stuff looks clean. I just don't like it.

And, if you ever decide to remove it after a year or two, you will be able to see the spot where it was/wasn't. the part where it wasn't, you will see that it has mison rock chips etc....

i personally wouldn't put in on a $39,000 car, but if you want to, then go right ahead..

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Thanks, the concept of a film-like substance sort of creeped me out - hence I asked. I just wasn't buying that this was too good of an idea.

BTW, I just got delivery of the car. Super glad to be a first time Lexus owner.

VxG

[SW03ES]

The paint sealant and the leather protectant are a ripoff. For the single stage black all you need to do is learn to wash and maintain the car peoperly yourself (which you can do here) or pay a professional to detail it. You could have the car detailed 5-6 times for what the paint sealant will cost.

As for the clear bra, clear bras are an excellent idea but I've heard some bad things about the 3M product. Other products like Armorglove or XPel are thinner and have a smoother surface than the 3M product.

LexKid is "kinda" right in what he's posted, you will be able to see the line from some angles across the hood. BUT it looks much better than it will after a few years of road chips trust me. Unless there's a line you wont be able to tell where the product ends and where it starts it will be invisible. I wish I had gotten the clear bra and I will on my next one. Here at some point I'm going to have the front bumper of mine repainted and then have the product applied to it.

Where LexKid is wrong is when it comes to chipping and the appearance after the film has been removed. The portions of the vehicle covered by the product are the only areas that are prone to chipping. You may get a few chips higher up on the hood but unless you're parked in a sandstorm these areas don't get sandblasted to the point where you would see a difference between the filmed area and the unfilmed area.

The second falacy is that the paint will look different after the film is removed. This is true of an actual bra because it blocks UV rays and keeps the paint underneath from fading along with the rest of the paint. A clearbra though has no UV inhibiting properties, so the paint will look exactly the same where it was and where it wasn't. All this and you can remove it yourself with a hairdrier.

As for price, $400 sounds way low to me. The cheapest I've seen everything done including the lights is $900 or so. Find a pro, go with a product like Armorglove or Xpel, but have it done trust me. It will be put on my next car before I even drive it a mile, believe me.

If the appearance of a line really bothers you have the hood custom wrapped and have them cover the whole thing. It'll cost a little more but then it'll really be invisible.

I say a $39,000 car is finally something worth this small investment. Have it done, in two years you won't be able to thank me enough.

[larrytrk]

The paint sealant and the leather protectant are a ripoff. For the single stage black all you need to do is learn to wash and maintain the car peoperly yourself (which you can do here) or pay a professional to detail it. You could have the car detailed 5-6 times for what the paint sealant will cost.

As for the clear bra, clear bras are an excellent idea but I've heard some bad things about the 3M product. Other products like Armorglove or XPel are thinner and have a smoother surface than the 3M product.

LexKid is "kinda" right in what he's posted, you will be able to see the line from some angles across the hood. BUT it looks much better than it will after a few years of road chips trust me. Unless there's a line you wont be able to tell where the product ends and where it starts it will be invisible. I wish I had gotten the clear bra and I will on my next one. Here at some point I'm going to have the front bumper of mine repainted and then have the product applied to it.

Where LexKid is wrong is when it comes to chipping and the appearance after the film has been removed. The portions of the vehicle covered by the product are the only areas that are prone to chipping. You may get a few chips higher up on the hood but unless you're parked in a sandstorm these areas don't get sandblasted to the point where you would see a difference between the filmed area and the unfilmed area.

The second falacy is that the paint will look different after the film is removed. This is true of an actual bra because it blocks UV rays and keeps the paint underneath from fading along with the rest of the paint. A clearbra though has no UV inhibiting properties, so the paint will look exactly the same where it was and where it wasn't. All this and you can remove it yourself with a hairdrier.

As for price, $400 sounds way low to me. The cheapest I've seen everything done including the lights is $900 or so. Find a pro, go with a product like Armorglove or Xpel, but have it done trust me. It will be put on my next car before I even drive it a mile, believe me.

If the appearance of a line really bothers you have the hood custom wrapped and have them cover the whole thing. It'll cost a little more but then it'll really be invisible.

I say a $39,000 car is finally something worth this small investment. Have it done, in two years you won't be able to thank me enough.

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Has anyone applied these products themselves, I am contemplating buying on E-Bay and installing on my 400H. My Rx300 had terrible stone pitting after a few years.

[SKperformance]

If you can tint auto windows and know how to pull stretch heat and cool something then you might have a chance.

Otherwise do not even attempt it or you will make the RX look really bad with air bubbles and creases.

The kits sold should be applied by pros but the pros buy the film in rolls.

If you want to protect something and do it yourself do not go any further than using the films made for headlights and fog lights.

It is easy to do as most are flat and a small area.

[SW03ES]

Has anyone applied these products themselves, I am contemplating buying on E-Bay and installing on my 400H.  My Rx300 had terrible stone pitting after a few years.

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No, don't try you'll just be wasting your money. Applying this stuff is a very difficult skill to master, just watching someone do it and you'll realize that real quick.

The RX400h is a $50,000+ car, I'd spend the $1000 to have it professionally installed without even missing a beat.