sumshane Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Can't seem to get the rear brake rotors off the car. Anyone know how to get them off? I got the calipers off but can't figure out the rotors. Thanks
tburk Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Can't seem to get the rear brake rotors off the car. Anyone know how to get them off? I got the calipers off but can't figure out the rotors. Thanks ← on my rx300 i just banged them off with a soft hammer. they were rusted so there was some resistance that i had to break through. keep on it, just dont hit it too hard, sometimes placing a piece of wood on rotor then hitting the wood with a hammer can protect it. good luck. also, make sure there is not a small screw holding the disk in place. also, use some wd-40 to loosen the grip of rust. not too much now. Tom
sumshane Posted June 30, 2005 Author Posted June 30, 2005 Can't seem to get the rear brake rotors off the car. Anyone know how to get them off? I got the calipers off but can't figure out the rotors. Thanks ← on my rx300 i just banged them off with a soft hammer. they were rusted so there was some resistance that i had to break through. keep on it, just dont hit it too hard, sometimes placing a piece of wood on rotor then hitting the wood with a hammer can protect it. good luck. also, make sure there is not a small screw holding the disk in place. also, use some wd-40 to loosen the grip of rust. not too much now. Tom ←
sumshane Posted June 30, 2005 Author Posted June 30, 2005 thanks tom. I've been trying that technique for a while now but they won't budge. I guess i'll keep at it.
mburnickas Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Can't seem to get the rear brake rotors off the car. Anyone know how to get them off? I got the calipers off but can't figure out the rotors. Thanks ← I use a ball hammer (rubber hammer with BB's inside). I then install Never-seize uon the rotor mating surf when re-installing.
lexusk8 Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Check out this link here. I know it's for an LS400, but the procedure should be the same. Hope this helps :)
Toysrme Posted July 1, 2005 Posted July 1, 2005 Rotors always have some holes drilled in them that are tapped. That lets you put a bolt through the rotor. The bolt pushed the rotor off the hub. Typically an SAE 5/16" bolt will thread and push them off. Go a turn at a time in opposite bolts. If the rotors are in bad shape, or hot, they could crack on you. There is no reason to go hitting the rotors with a hammer when a small amount of force will do the job with less chance of missing and hitting something you don't want to!
tburk Posted July 1, 2005 Posted July 1, 2005 Rotors are all way have some holes drilled in them that are tapped.That lets you put a bolt through the rotor. The bolt pushed the rotor off the hub. Typically an SAE 5/16" bolt will thread and push them off. Go a turn at a time in opposite bolts. If the rotors are in bad shape, or hot, they could crack on you. There is no reason to go hitting the rotors with a hammer when a small amount of force will do the job with less chance of missing and hitting something you don't want to! ← this is true, although, i stripped the threads on my rotor using this method. the rotors were so rusted that the bolt ripped the threads right out after a few half turns, so i had to resort to the pounding of the hammer.
mburnickas Posted July 1, 2005 Posted July 1, 2005 Rotors are all way have some holes drilled in them that are tapped.That lets you put a bolt through the rotor. The bolt pushed the rotor off the hub. Typically an SAE 5/16" bolt will thread and push them off. Go a turn at a time in opposite bolts. If the rotors are in bad shape, or hot, they could crack on you. There is no reason to go hitting the rotors with a hammer when a small amount of force will do the job with less chance of missing and hitting something you don't want to! ← this is true, although, i stripped the threads on my rotor using this method. the rotors were so rusted that the bolt ripped the threads right out after a few half turns, so i had to resort to the pounding of the hammer. ← I must agree anyone that use TAPPED holes to push something off is nuts. At least put some helicoil in the holes to add some additional strenth. It is only steel here folks.....cheap and poor material properties.
Toysrme Posted July 1, 2005 Posted July 1, 2005 In ten years I've never had a problem. Maybe try using the correct thread pattern instead of whatever is close enough to begin to thread?
mburnickas Posted July 1, 2005 Posted July 1, 2005 In ten years I've never had a problem.Maybe try using the correct thread pattern instead of whatever is close enough to begin to thread? ← hmm, since I am enginner (mech) and have broken (stipped) MANY tapped holes. Again not many people used tapped holes since they suck. They make helicoil coil for a reason and they are 10X better. I know all about 3unc, 2unc, TPI, min and minor dia, pitch etc. Nevermind the lube w/torque factorts, torque at certain degrees. Again, they are poor by design and not used much; neither is steel.
Toysrme Posted July 2, 2005 Posted July 2, 2005 I'm not saying tap or re-tap the holes. They come tapped / threaded. Find the right thread, use them, and they won't break out.
mburnickas Posted July 2, 2005 Posted July 2, 2005 I'm not saying tap or re-tap the holes.They come tapped / threaded. Find the right thread, use them, and they won't break out. ← you are missing the complete point. Threaded holes are poor by design. I would not use them to pull something off since the stress in the threads, due to surface area will almost break. It is a fact here. you can use the correct thread etc but the threads are the weak link.
monarch Posted July 2, 2005 Posted July 2, 2005 Toyota has used the threaded hole design successfully worldwide for 40 years. Understandably, the threads may rust in snowy winter climates like Ohio and Massachusetts where there is extensive use of road salt.
mburnickas Posted July 2, 2005 Posted July 2, 2005 Toyota has used the threaded hole design successfully worldwide for 40 years. Understandably, the threads may rust in snowy winter climates like Ohio and Massachusetts where there is extensive use of road salt. ← That is great they used threaded holes for that long and I am sure these holes (threaded) at not to be used to pry of metal parts that are together by dis-similar metals, rust etc. It is weird that cars used tapped holes "for 40 years per Monach/Saber etc) but they are to NOT be used in commerial and military apps since they are not good by design and testing shows it. For me, why not spend the $0.0005 on a helicoil and call it a day? I guess I would never make a good car enginner.... The point I am trying to make is that I would not rely on tapped hole to pry something apart. You are just asking to strip the threads, big time. Moach it has nothing to do with Ohio or MA as our profile states. It is common (basic) design here. It is more variables then "snowy winters here".
SKperformance Posted July 4, 2005 Posted July 4, 2005 I have a post where i explain brake replacment in the workshop tutorials. It uses the main carriage bolts on the rear suspension to pop off the rotors. It takes both bolts to be tightened slightly to even the pressure to pop them off with a bang.
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