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Crack In The Evaporator Core Case


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I had moisture on my passenger floorboard (2001 GS) and figured it was a clogged A/C drain line. Dealer called and told me I had a cracked case around the evaporator core. First of all, how does the case crack without any impact? I guess it's possible, but wouldn't it take some force to crack it?

Second of all, it's very expensive to replace (10-12 hrs labor), but another repair shop suggested it could be repaired by just sealing the crack with an apoxy (epoxy?) sealant that is actually stronger than the plastic case itself.

Has anyone heard of a cracked case, or know how it could happen?

Can anyone shed light onto what my best alternative is (excluding the obvious cost savings)?

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Here are my two theories:

1. The drain was indeed blocked (at least at one time). Water collected in the bottom of the case. The collected water froze from the low temperature of the evaporator. Freezing water expands. Yada, yada, yada.

2. The case cracked along a molding line; an area where two pieces are joined during manufacture of the box. Should be warranty, or at least partially (since your 4 year 50K mile is probably out) if you complain loudly enough to the right people.

During normal operation of the air conditioner, condensate collects on the evaporator. If there is any crack in the case, however small, a leak is very likely.

The best way to attempt a repair of the case would be to remove and disassemble it to thouroughly evaluate the damage. Removing the case does require removing the entire dash board, so the labor will of course be costly. Prudence suggests replacing the case if you have gone so far as to remove it.

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I would opt to replace it. If the epoxy repair does not work, you run the risk of cracking the evap core if the ice builds up too much again. I had to replace the craked evap core on my 95 for the same reason...no fun.

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  • 3 months later...

I have the same problem on my 98 GS400 and the dealer is saying the cause is a Evaporator Core Heater Box. The Lexus Dealer is quoting $3200. I told him he may have hit his head....What did you end up doing?

I had moisture on my passenger floorboard (2001 GS) and figured it was a clogged A/C drain line.  Dealer called and told me I had a cracked case around the evaporator core.  First of all, how does the case crack without any impact?  I guess it's possible, but wouldn't it take some force to crack it?

Second of all, it's very expensive to replace (10-12 hrs labor), but another repair shop suggested it could be repaired by just sealing the crack with an apoxy (epoxy?) sealant that is actually stronger than the plastic case itself.

Has anyone heard of a cracked case, or know how it could happen?

Can anyone shed light onto what my best alternative is (excluding the obvious cost savings)?

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  • 2 years later...

I have the same problem on my 98 GS400 and the dealer is saying the cause is a Evaporator Core Heater Box. The Lexus Dealer is quoting $3200. I told him he may have hit his head....What did you end up doing?

I had moisture on my passenger floorboard (2001 GS) and figured it was a clogged A/C drain line.  Dealer called and told me I had a cracked case around the evaporator core.  First of all, how does the case crack without any impact?  I guess it's possible, but wouldn't it take some force to crack it?

Second of all, it's very expensive to replace (10-12 hrs labor), but another repair shop suggested it could be repaired by just sealing the crack with an apoxy (epoxy?) sealant that is actually stronger than the plastic case itself.

Has anyone heard of a cracked case, or know how it could happen?

Can anyone shed light onto what my best alternative is (excluding the obvious cost savings)?

My 99 GS300 has the same problem, Lexus of Manhattan wants $2500 to fix it. This quote was given to me without taking the dash apart as I would have to pay out 6 labor hours @ $654 to take it all apart. I'm taking my vehicle to my brothers mechanic who is quoting around $700.

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just replace it........would hate for the epoxy to crack or not hold the seal and have to pay for this twice. dunno how they doing yours without removing the dash hihosilver its not possible you have to remove it!

brian

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just replace it........would hate for the epoxy to crack or not hold the seal and have to pay for this twice. dunno how they doing yours without removing the dash hihosilver its not possible you have to remove it!

brian

\Brian,

I am fully aware that the entire dash needs to come apart... I was supposed to just get a new evap box for around $390 or so, the remaing monies would of been to take the dash apart. My brother handles the mechanics computer operating system, thus the cheap labor quote. Now I find out that you cannot buy the box alone, you need to buy the whole entire assembly which is $1600. The dash was taken apart yesterday, the evap box has been taken out (pinhole leak at the bottom of the evap box right at the seam), been dismantled, resealed at the seams, sealant applied to the bottom of the evap box for extra precaution and is now in the process of drying. Tomorrow the box will be filled and left through the weekend to see if there are any leaks.

I love my 99 GS and it looks beautiful as it has been garaged kept for most of its life but I cannot justify a $2500 fix for a car that's probably worth only $10,000 or so. I realize cars are depreciating assets and spending money to properly maintain them is a must but spending 25% of the value of the car doesn't make sense to me. I think I could think of better ways to *BLEEP* my money away, besides the mechanic at Bay Ridge Lexus (& Queens) had told me to seal it as well and not to replace the entire assembly. If the leak comes back again, I'll just have to sell her and upgrade. If I'm going to *BLEEP* money away, I might as well get a better/newer car.

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My 99 GS300 has the same problem, Lexus of Manhattan wants $2500 to fix it. This quote was given to me without taking the dash apart as I would have to pay out 6 labor hours @ $654 to take it all apart. I'm taking my vehicle to my brothers mechanic who is quoting around $700.

well u talk about not wanting to put money into the car but what if the sealant comes of again? just seems like a cheap cruddy way to fix it! your essentially not fixing it just kinda sweeping it under the floor! what kinda sealant did you put on this? i wish you woulda said you just had a pinhole leak..........i coulda sent you some of this automotive super seal we sell at work!

http://www.cliplight.com/automotive/produc...mp;productID=16

put this in my old es which i sold to my father and it has had no leaks since. i used to put almost a pound of freon in it EVERY year! it got old then like 4 years ago we started carrying this. mainly sell it for home systems but we carry it for commercial, heat pumps, and automobile also! well anyways good luck and let me know how it turns out! oh and i misunderstood you bout the dash thought u were saying

brian

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My 99 GS300 has the same problem, Lexus of Manhattan wants $2500 to fix it. This quote was given to me without taking the dash apart as I would have to pay out 6 labor hours @ $654 to take it all apart. I'm taking my vehicle to my brothers mechanic who is quoting around $700.

well u talk about not wanting to put money into the car but what if the sealant comes of again? just seems like a cheap cruddy way to fix it! your essentially not fixing it just kinda sweeping it under the floor! what kinda sealant did you put on this? i wish you woulda said you just had a pinhole leak..........i coulda sent you some of this automotive super seal we sell at work!

http://www.cliplight.com/automotive/produc...mp;productID=16

put this in my old es which i sold to my father and it has had no leaks since. i used to put almost a pound of freon in it EVERY year! it got old then like 4 years ago we started carrying this. mainly sell it for home systems but we carry it for commercial, heat pumps, and automobile also! well anyways good luck and let me know how it turns out! oh and i misunderstood you bout the dash thought u were saying

brian

Brian,

It might be a cheap way of fixing it but your dads ES seems to be fine and I'll assume that it will work for me as well. If it lasts another 4 years or so, I'll be more than happy, Ill be turning 40 in 3 years and I will most likely treat myself to another vehicle. Picking the car up this afternoon, mechanic is only charging me $500 for the repair which my company picks up 75% of the cost :) - My company has a $1600 limit per year and with this repair I'm up to $1300, $300 more dollars to spend for the remainer of the year. BTW, thanks for the link ! I'm driving out to the Hamptons tommorow with the A/C on all the way there and back. Should be a good way to test it all out, I'll let you know how all turns out.

Al

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my dads es didnt get epoxied! but thats besides the point......must be nice to have a company picking up repairs! im jealous :cries: :cries: so how was the drive to the hamptons?

brian

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my dads es didnt get epoxied! but thats besides the point......must be nice to have a company picking up repairs! im jealous :cries::cries: so how was the drive to the hamptons?

brian

Drove out today and back, had the A/C on for about 5 hours today and NO more wetness/moisture :) - So far it seems to working, let's hope it lasts...

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Drove out today and back, had the A/C on for about 5 hours today and NO more wetness/moisture :) - So far it seems to working, let's hope it lasts...

thats the most important ? or the million dollar ? congrats! but still not recommended

brian

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  • 1 year later...

You guys are too spend thrift. Patch it good and forget it. I used to repair small engines. I had a rod punch through the block of an engine and repaired the hole with epoxy and a screen it still runs to this day. If you do a proper patch with good adhesion it will hold up as long as you own the car. I used hot glue to repair my Window wash bottle it is still holding fine. If it's a Hair line crack you drill a tiny hole through at both ends of the crack so the crack doesn't travel further, then you seal it.

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