Wiper Pump Dead!

[eric618]

Hey everyone....

About a week ago I ran out of wiper fluid. The "low fluid" light was on also. I know it was working well at the time, cause when it did finally run out it did the whole sputtering thing as it shot out the last drops of fluid. Well, today I *finally* got it refilled and now it's dead. The wipers themselves work fine, but the pump is not working at all. Cannot hear it running at all when I tug on the wiper lever. Same goes for front and back windows (which I assume are driven by the same pump). I checked for clogged lines and they are all okay. Just a crapped out pump. I also checked fuses, thinking maybe the pump and motor were on different circuits. No luck!

Does anyone have ANY idea on this? Also, where is the pump located? Next to the wiper motor, or somewhere else? I don't wanna take off all the shrouding that covers the wiper motor just to find that the pump is elsewhere.

Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide!

[4482]

In my 05 RX manual it talks about not running the washer with an empty fluid tank as it may cause the motor to overheat. I would think this condition might then cause a motor problem over time.

Good luck,

[SKperformance]

The pump is usually inside the bottle

[eric618]

The pump is usually inside the bottle

←

Inside the bottle? As in, inside the reservoir? Hmmmm. I'll be checking into it later today. Thanks for the info.

[RX in NC]

Always keep your washer fluid topped up for this very reason. You created your own problem by ignoring your "low washer fluid" light.

As part of my Saturday morning oil level and tire pressure check, I top up the washer fluid tanks on all our vehicles. Takes about one extra minute, but this story proves that it's time well spent.

[eric618]

Hey RX in NC, thanks for playing, but try again. There is no power reaching the washer motor whatsoever. Checked it earlier. I checked right at the plug to the motor itself.

Another interesting symptom is that when I engage the washer motor for the front, the blades go through a few rotations as normal (just without fluid)...... But when I try the same for the rear, the front blades again go through a few rotations, as well as the rear. I am not engaging the front washer at all, but yet it attempts to activate when I engage the rear. This certainly isn't normal behavior.

Does that help anyone? I am assuming now that the problem is within the switch itself based on the above strange behavior. Thanks in advance!

[RX in NC]

Are you positive that no power is reaching the washer motor? Did you check the circuitry at the power plug with a meter?

In the old days (1970s and 80s), washer motors were frequently prone to seizing up if the owner allowed the tank to run out of fluid. Sometimes these seized motors could be rejuvenated by removing them, squirting a bit of fluid combined with a small amount of silicone spray into their plumbing, and then heating the motor up to perhaps 140 to 150 degrees (go no hotter than this, however, or you'll melt the internal wiring and seals). A few good hard shakes can help once the motor is warmed up. But don't pound it on a brick....

A highly-skilled and very innovative Datsun technician told me about this trick in the late 70s and years later I was able to use this information to help get a friend's Z-car washer motor going again after we had exhausted all other ideas at the time and I finally convinced her that we were not going to charbroil her motor.

If you know the problem is in your motor, I think this is worth trying since you'll have to replace it anyway. But if you're convinced that your motor is okay and your problem is actually in the circuitry or switch, then I would hold off on trying this. That's why it's critical to test your wiring with a meter to prove or disprove that your motor is actually getting sufficient voltage in order to operate. But since you know you were out of fluid to begin with, I think it would be a good idea to lubricate your motor as described above before attempting to bring it back to life.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[eric618]

Hey RX, I checked the power with a meter right at the plug to the motor itself. Not even getting a hint of juice.

As I had explained in my last post, the bizarre behavior from the switch where it automaticaly activates the front when I engage ONLY the back makes me think it's in the switch. I do admit I am merely guessing though.

Does anyone know the voltage that goes to the pump? I can run a bypass line merely to test it, which I would like to do, just to verify. If anyone knows this please share.

Thanks to everyone for their help thus far. Hope it keeps coming.

[eric618]

Well, I checked everything I can regarding this and cannot find where the problem is.

I'm assuming no one else has any tips? If so, share 'em now before it heads to the tech to get diagnosed/fixed.

Thanks!!!

[SKperformance]

I would agree that swithc is very likely.

I had mine replaced by lexus after they relaced my wipers, motors, control unit, and some other parts all because the switch told the wipers to turn off as soon as i turned it off.

[eric618]

First off, I owe RX an apology!

My voltmeter was not working when I checked the juice to the pump. It WAS getting juice. Come to find out earlier today (when I tried to test something else), that there was a short in one of the voltmeter lines. I retested everything, and sure enough there is power reaching the pump.

I tried RX's suggestion (sort of) and got the pump back to working order. I pulled it off the car, connected both output lines with a small section of clear hose (to seal the system, so to speak), and filled the pump area with WD-40. After warming it up as suggested, I kept working it in forward and reverse directions from the battery terminals for a second or 2 at a time. Withing 5 minutes or so, it freed up and circulated the WD-40 through the clear hose. I ran it for several seconds to lubricate everything, then fully cleaned it out and reinstalled it. It works perfectly again.

Anywho, just wanted to throw out the update and also to thank RX for his suggestions. It's appreciated...

Oh, and Happy 4th of July!!!

[RX in NC]

Glad to hear that my suggestion worked for you. Some folks don't have the guts to attempt this solution, but my feeling is that if your pump seems dead, you have little to lose. Just don't use a torch - I prefer a toaster oven set no higher than about 150 degrees and NEVER TAKE YOUR EYES OFF THE PUMP THE ENTIRE TIME IT'S IN THERE. Also, it's a good idea to make sure your wife or girlfriend is out of the house for awhile because if she catches you cooking car parts in her oven, she's likely to try to throw you out of the house along with your pump....

[Erv]

First off, I owe RX an apology!

My voltmeter was not working when I checked the juice to the pump.  It WAS getting juice.  Come to find out earlier today (when I tried to test something else), that there was a short in one of the voltmeter lines.  I retested everything, and sure enough there is power reaching the pump.

I tried RX's suggestion (sort of) and got the pump back to working order.  I pulled it off the car, connected both output lines with a small section of clear hose (to seal the system, so to speak), and filled the pump area with WD-40.  After warming it up as suggested, I kept working it in forward and reverse directions from the battery terminals for a second or 2 at a time.  Withing 5 minutes or so, it freed up and circulated the WD-40 through the clear hose.  I ran it for several seconds to lubricate everything, then fully cleaned it out and reinstalled it.  It works perfectly again.

Anywho, just wanted to throw out the update and also to thank RX for his suggestions.  It's appreciated...

Oh, and Happy 4th of July!!! 

←