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Is $880 Worth It?


gazhalim

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I just got my 91 LS400, 158,000 miles, a couple of months ago, and already, i've had to get a new battery, a brand new rack and pinion system, and now, my alternator is starting to go...

I took it to a mechanic and he found two major issues with it. He said that my upper control arm is effed up and that he would fix that and my alternator for $880 out the door.

Two questions:

1) Is this a good deal?

2) Am I better off just selling the car, or is $880, plus my other $275, just a part of normal wear and tear?

Besides that, the mechanic said that the car is perfect, but i'm just not sure if i should fork up $880 for an upper control arm and an alternator.

Thanks in advance for ur time,

Gaz

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http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...991&catalogid=2

Altenator = $222

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...991&catalogid=1

upper control arm = $282

Control arm is easy as pie to do. Alternator I'm not sure about. But, if one control arm is bad "bushings toast", then you can pretty much bet all the others are on their way, if they have not been replaced. NOW, having said this, you're model is the Generation 1. And, there are other options for that year for these bushings. There are aftermarket ones for a lot less. Diazen is the company. Do a search and you'll find them.

If you're a DIY type, then I'd keep the car. If you're not, then expect to pay for repairs. I've got a 95 w/ 98k miles. I'm switching out all the control arms this weekend on my own. Nothing too intense. But I love my car, and know it will continue to run for many many many many more years under my care.

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http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...991&catalogid=2

Altenator = $222

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...991&catalogid=1

upper control arm = $282

Control arm is easy as pie to do. Alternator I'm not sure about. But, if one control arm is bad "bushings toast", then you can pretty much bet all the others are on their way, if they have not been replaced. NOW, having said this, you're model is the Generation 1. And, there are other options for that year for these bushings. There are aftermarket ones for a lot less. Diazen is the company. Do a search and you'll find them.

If you're a DIY type, then I'd keep the car. If you're not, then expect to pay for repairs. I've got a 95 w/ 98k miles. I'm switching out all the control arms this weekend on my own. Nothing too intense. But I love my car, and know it will continue to run for many many many many more years under my care.

B) Cool, thanks for the quick respons and awesome links!!! :cheers:

How do you go about changing the control arm? If you don't mind, when u're done doing that this weekend, if I could maybe pm you or something for some pointers, or if you don't mind posting steps on the forum for other users also, i'd really appreciate it.

I'll see what research I can do at home this weekend, tutorials and what not, but once again, thanks for the info...

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Hey, nc211 - are you going to be putting together a how-to? I was going to replace the front upper control arm on my 91 LS this weekend as well (provided parts arrive today) and was going to do the pics and such, but I don't want to duplicate work pointlessly.

In regards to the Daizen bushings, check around for them at Sewell Lexus. Or click on this Linky, yo

Last time I checked, Daizen didn't have them out, but wanted to target May 2005. Of course, they said that they'd be out 4th quarter of '04, so we may or may not see them. However, for $100 for both sides, you can't really go wrong if your bushings are bad.

That said, I've had to replace my control arms not because the bushings are bad but becasue the upper ball joint is shot. There's no way to replace that by itself, so you'd need a new control arm. Make sure your bushings are bad rather than the ball joint before you invest in the Daizen aftermarket stuff (unless you want to replace them anyway).

Also, alternator isn't necessarily a snap, but it's not all that hard either. Certainly easier than a power steering pump, which you should ABSOLUTELY check for leaks as well. The pumps on Gen 1's seem to be notorious for leaking all over the alternator and ruining themselves and the alt. If your alternator is bad, it's possible you have a leaky P/S pump.

That said, welcome to the club. I love working on my Leuxs, and a lot of others around here feel the same way, so never hesitate to ask if you have questions.

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I was going to do that, but checking the digital camera last night I came to the sad realization that the battery is toast :cries: . It won't hold a charge at all anymore. It's a cannon snapshot. I will however post up a description on how I did it with pdf. files from the manual. I went to Autozone last night and "rented" a pitman arm puller, ball joint seperator, and a few other gadgets. If you're already aware of this service from Autozone, disregard my blabbering. If not, check out their website! You basically put down a deposit "purchase price" and then when you're done, bring them back, and they refund your money back! Saved me about $150. The uppers don't look too bad from the files. It's basically 3 bolts: Two with the bushings and the one that connects to the steering arm. I'll post up on Monday. I'm also doing the shocks, rack mounts and hopefully the rear differential bushing mounts. I attempted the differential mounts once before, but was defeated due to improper tools.

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nc211

Do you use just hand tools (with breaker bars), or you have to use the impact tool (along with air compressor and stuffs), to remove the control arms?

I plan to replace mine too.

Thanks

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nc211

Do you use just hand tools (with breaker bars), or you have to use the impact tool (along with air compressor and stuffs), to remove the control arms?

I plan to replace mine too.

Thanks

Check out this link guys:

http://www.lextreme.com/bushing.html

for alternator replacement, see the following:

http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html

Much thanks goes out to lextreme for his informative website.

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Won't you need an alignment after you replace control arms, ball joints, etc.?

I just installed the Daizen upper control arm bushings in my '90 LS, And it was tedious but not difficult. I borrowed the ball joint breaker from Kraegens; everything else I had in my box. I was going to do the lower ball joints and control arm bushings this weekend, but the parts didn't arrive. It definitely needs alignment now. I'll see how it tracks after the lower end is tightened up.

By the way, it took 3 months to get the bushing kit from TM engineering. If anyone else is going this route, with bushing kit from Daizen, and you need some tips, let me know.

John

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I plan to do exactly the same thing on my car, 1990 LS400, 208k miles.

Please help.

Thanks :D

Do you have a manual for your car, or any of the PDF manuals? Also, do you have a torque wrench capable of 110 ft/lbs?

Required tools: Jack, jackstand or blocks, 1/2" drive breaker bar , ratchet, and a few metric sockets (14mm, 17mm, 19mm), balljoint cracker (available @ autozone/kraegens for loan) , workbench and vise, hacksaw, propane or mappgas torch (acetelyne would also work, if you use a cool flame and caution), hammer, cold chisel-small, and a 2-prong gear puller comes in handy(a good one comes in the Kraegen kit).

Are you ready?

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I will buy propane torch, and borrow the ball joint cracker and gear puller.

I already have 2 volumes of Lexus 1990 repair manual, and I have the rest of items you recommended. I just recently had the front lower ball joints replaced at a local mechanic shop (I bought the parts from IronToad).

How can I deal with TM Engineering to get the bushings for the front control arms? After getting them, then I will be ready, I guess.

Thanks.:D

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Jadecuir,

I forgot to "confess" that I have to buy a torque wrench too!

Any recommendations before I go shopping for all of these stuffs to get myself ready?

Thanks a million. How nice of you!:D

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I'd check with autozone before buying all this stuff. You might beable to borrow them.

Well, once again I was defeated this past weekend with my chore. I couldn't even get the 1st nut to come loose on the upper control arm. So, in typical southern fashion, I packed it in. Went to the store, got a 12 pack, and spent the rest of the day cussin' at the car. I've decided to work a deal with my local mechanic. He's going to put all my parts on in exchange for my computer skills. I'm going to redo two of his home computers and make them fly! I figure that's a good deal. He's got that air wrench set up. Oh well.

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I've been on several forum boards in the past, but you guys on here rock!

Everyone is so polite, and I just want to say thanks for all the help.

My new problem is that my front right tire is leaking air, and the people at Cassidy tire said that a set of four new tires would be $614 out the door.

Now my issue is this, should I try to sell this 91 LS400 or go ahead and pay the $880 for the control arm and alternator, along with the $614 for the tires. That's more than $1500, and the car is a little over a month old!

But the thing is, I seriously love the ride and the feel of the car, so it's a hard decision...

:unsure:

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I've been on several forum boards in the past, but you guys on here rock!

Everyone is so polite, and I just want to say thanks for all the help.

My new problem is that my front right tire is leaking air, and the people at Cassidy tire said that a set of four new tires would be $614 out the door.

Now my issue is this, should I try to sell this 91 LS400 or go ahead and pay the $880 for the control arm and alternator, along with the $614 for the tires. That's more than $1500, and the car is a little over a month old!

But the thing is, I seriously love the ride and the feel of the car, so it's a hard decision...

:unsure:

If you can't take the heat get out of the fire now. These are great cars and we all love them to death !! BUT !! either you work on it yourself or you find a good independent Toy/Lex shop and be preparred to pay maybe 500, 1000,1500 a year. Hopefully way less. Don't even think about going to a Lexus dealer unless you are willing to pay a premium. Not that they are not honest, they pay their tech's the most and have the best facilities and training. Its just that you will be paying for all that. A good independent will do the same job for 70% of the cost. Sometimes they can offer you used parts or aftermarket parts also (if the situation calls for it). So try to base part of your decision on the repair options available to you and your tollerance for the future expenses. Good Luck

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Jadecuir,

I forgot to "confess" that I have to buy a torque wrench too!

Any recommendations before I go shopping for all of these stuffs to get myself ready?

Thanks a million. How nice of you!:D

Reference TM Engineering: You can order online like I did, then find out they are out of stock, or call them and check stock first. As it worked out, they didn't bill my card until they shipped the set, and they did not charge shipping. They want $100 for the set, and the other dealers want over two bills. I think Sewell charges a reasonable price, too. Check with them, also.

Don't buy any tools until your sure you can't borrow them, although a torque wrench is a good thing to own. Since abuse can throw them out of calibration, I tend not to loan out my Snap-on. I've had it for 33 years now, and had it repaired twice (free). The mappgas torch is inexpensive, and you can also use it for brazing copper pipe and lighting Havanas when your done with your car.

I'm 100 miles from my home computer and camera, but when I get home later this week, I'll post the necessary PDF's, and try to describe the old bushing removal process as clearly as possible.

Another tool I used, because I had one already, is a small Cylinder hone, to clean the bores up. Fine sandpaper would also work, but takes a little longer.

John

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John,

I checked with TM Engineering and they said they have the Daizen bushing kit in stock "at the moment". I'm not sure I will buy from them or I might try Sewell ($94.50 plus shipping, no tax).

I will buy mappgas torch for sure, although I don't have Havanas "at the moment". Just kidding.

And I will check with AutoZone for all other tools before buying as per your recommendations.

Thanks a million. :D

Don

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John,

I checked with TM Engineering and they said they have the Daizen bushing kit in stock "at the moment". I'm not sure I will buy from them or I might try Sewell ($94.50 plus shipping, no tax).

I will buy mappgas torch for sure, although I don't have Havanas "at the moment". Just kidding.

And I will check with AutoZone for all other tools before buying as per your recommendations.

Thanks a million. :D

Don

Great! Letme know how Sewell treats you, as I need some Differential Cushions, and they had the best price.

John

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My new problem is that my front right tire is leaking air, and the people at Cassidy tire said that a set of four new tires would be $614 out the door.

Whoa - $614 for tires? What are they made out of? Once you hit $500 for tires on the LS, you probably should be thinking about what you're buying. Tires are a big part of ride quality, but there are diminishing returns as you go up the price scale.

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I would check out the Perrilli P6 out. Set of 4 is just over $425 at Discount Tire. They replace the 6000 series, which where very good tires. They might not have the highest speed rating but are quite and handle driving in hard rain and puddled rain great.

I was lucky when I got my 91 LS. Only paid $5200 for it and drove it 50K without having to get it fixed. All of a sudden I am gioing to be putting in several thousand. A new AC comp. was $1,100 installed. Power steering pumg, shocks, timing belt ect...

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