914lps Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 I found out my idle surging was in fact a bad Idle Control Valve. It just died on it’s own. Unrelated to the water that got onto the engine. Unit will not move even when jumped, etc., and code readout states it is also bad. The mechanic says he can order one for $725.00! O.K. I found one online for $600.00, but come on! What is in this thing that they are charging $600.00! I can buy one hell of a nice TV for less, or a great digital SLR camera!…… Any suggestions on saving on this? I can’t really go without fixing it.. I have two other cars, so the Lexus will sit till I decide what to do. Also I need new plugs and wires. The water did mess them up. The car has 116,000 miles on it. Last tune up etc., was at 60,000 miles major service. Any thoughts on if I should replace the “distributor” caps also. And the timing belt???? Open to any and all thoughts. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 umm have you thought about removing it and cleaning it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LS400Bob Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Clean it or wrecking yard. Lexus parts are nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmyofOne Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Clean it or wrecking yard. Lexus parts are nuts. ← Best i can do: IDLE SPEED CONTROL, LS400, SC400 90-92 List Price: $697.54 Your Price: $523.16 best i can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
914lps Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 Clean it or wrecking yard. Lexus parts are nuts. ← Best i can do: IDLE SPEED CONTROL, LS400, SC400 90-92 List Price: $697.54 Your Price: $523.16 best i can do. ← The price is good I'll be in touch with you. As for the guy saying to clean it: A mechanic diagnosed it. He took the part off and tested it. It tested bad. So how would cleaning it help, and how do you clean it???? Test it etc…?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 If it is stuck with carbon it won;t move if it is freed up like most with throttle body cleaner then it can move again ,i didn;t see it but did it look black with carbon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
914lps Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 Yes it was very black. Should I just take it off and spay the you know what out of it with carb cleaner? And should I spray the cleaner into the opening that I take it out of? Sounds like I have nothing to loose but time on trying to clean it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Spray and clean the heck out of the ISCV, and make sure the solvent you sprays into the intake does not foul the O2 sensors and/or catalytic convertors. Let's know the results, will you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 The car has 116,000 miles on it. Last tune up etc., was at 60,000 miles major service. Any thoughts on if I should replace the “distributor” caps also. And the timing belt???? My former timing belt was quite worn when I replaced it at 150kmiles so change it soon. You can also remove the cam cover on the driver side (~10min job) and inspect the timing belt for cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
914lps Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 On the spry I use to clean the valve. I would assume (a bad thing to do) that a good choke and carb cleaner would be OK to use and not mess up the O2 sensor unit or the catalytic converter. On the trimming belt. When the mechanic that looked at the car looked at the valve, he took enough parts off to see the belt. It "Looked" ok, but told me if I decide to replace the distributor caps, when I do the wires and plugs, I may want to do the belt also. But he did confirm, that if the belt goes when driving, the car shuts down, but does not eat the engine. One other thought. I’m going to replace all the plugs. But should I just test the wires and replace as needed or just throw in a new set. I’m sure I need about 2 or 3 new wires. I hope to find the time to get into the cleaning of the valve by Saterday. Well post the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 On the spry I use to clean the valve. I would assume (a bad thing to do) that a good choke and carb cleaner would be OK to use and not mess up the O2 sensor unit or the catalytic converter.On the trimming belt. When the mechanic that looked at the car looked at the valve, he took enough parts off to see the belt. It "Looked" ok, but told me if I decide to replace the distributor caps, when I do the wires and plugs, I may want to do the belt also. But he did confirm, that if the belt goes when driving, the car shuts down, but does not eat the engine. One other thought. I’m going to replace all the plugs. But should I just test the wires and replace as needed or just throw in a new set. I’m sure I need about 2 or 3 new wires. I hope to find the time to get into the cleaning of the valve by Saterday. Well post the results. ← A full set of wires are in order [ especially if you know 2 or 3 are bad ] B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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