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Posted

ok, so i hooked up my amp today. i am having trouble with the remote turn on lead. i tried wiring it to the OE sub amp; when i used the blue w/ white stripe and nothing. when i tried using the wire that turns into the red wire after the harness. i tried finding the cell phone wire, but had no luck removing the console. it is more than the 2 screws at the back of the console. so i was runnning out of time so i wired it to the cig lighter and it stays on even when the radio is off. the only thing i didnt do get the back off the OE headunit. can any one help me on this matter?

Posted

would the radio fuse #2 be a switched fuse? i have it hooked to the cig lighter wire right now and i heard that it will give me feedback, such as a whining noise. i will be dropping the sub into tonight, so i will know 100%. i tried using the diagrams from technicalhelp4u.com but for some reason, the "acc" wire reads it gets 8v but when i wire it to the amp, the amp doesnt come on. please help

Posted

Wiring an amp remote turn on to a your cigarette lighter shouldn't cause any whining. That whining you're hearing is either from a bad ground or if you ran your RCA's side by side with your main power wire. If there is voltage present at the switched terminal then your amp should turn on, unless your amp is burnt out or your connections are no good. If the acc or cig doesn't work for the turn on lead then splice it into the power antenna turn on.

A switched circuit is something that only turns on when you "switch" your key to the acc or on position.

Posted

first let me say thank you guys so far. one more thing, so i dropped everything in, and it sounds really good, i have the remote lead hooked into the stock amps ACC. when i turn the car on, it gives me a loud noise from the sub. ince the headunit turns on it stops. this noise is only when the car is turned and right before the radio powers up. then it sounds good. any advice on this?

Posted

You spliced the remote turn on from your aftermarket amp into the remote turn on to the stock amp? I had a similar problem when I was working on a 97 Prelude. It had something to do with the factory amp so I ran a seperate wire to the aftermarket HU and it went away...in your case you could splice it into the power antenna wire. With the Prelude it was because of the auto sound leveling that caused the crack/pop only when I turned it on or off. BTW, if you haven't thrown in a fuse for the remote turn on then now is the time to do so..drop in a 0.5 amp fuse for that wire.

Posted

i also got that crack/pop when i had the remote lead going from the cig lighter wire. i'll try the power antenna, but i just may end up taking it to the shop to install.

Posted

the problem is the ant remote wire is very low volatage and will not turn on most amps

second it only turns the ant on when the radio is on not sure on yours but most it retracts the ant when switched to cd or tape

Posted

SKperformance is right. I didn't think of it that way but the antenna isn't up when it's in cd or tape mode.

Get a dmm and start checking voltage levels, all you need for a remote turn on is 0.5 amps or a little less. Sears has a multimeter on sale for $10.

If you're able to get the wiring schematic for your vehicle then just tap the amp turn on wire into the switched 12v wire behind the HU.

Posted

thank you guys for all your help. i just talked to "car toys" the guy there said that in these cars, some VW's and audis, if you use high level inputs you will get that sound from the sub. the only way to cure it is to change out the headnit. anyon ehear about this? geuss i better start saving for that lcd screen.

Posted

the only crossover i which is not much of a crossover is on the amp. it had a +0,+6,+12, and an HP, LP. and thats it. its a RF 201s. not a big amp but my brother gave it to me so i cant complain.


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