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Changing Rotos And Distributor Caps


lincolntran

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Go to the tutorial section and look at the timing belt one I posted. Just follow those steps in the tutorial until you reach the distributor cap and rotors...stop once you get to that step and just remove and replace with the new ones.

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I just replaced the distributor caps, rotors, ignition wireset and plugs this weekend on a 93LS with 102K miles. Access is easy for everything but the distributor caps and rotors. You have to loosen the lower halves of the distributor/timing belt covers to get access to the lower 8mm bolt for the distributor cap. I was able to loosen the covers enough to get access without removing radiator hoses, fans, etc from the engine front. The right bank is tougher than the left bank because you have two bigger bolts that go through the cover which I think also go through the water pump. Once you get all the bolts in the cover loose you can pull them far enough away to remove the distributor caps. Word of caution here, be careful with your tools and screws that you remove when working in this area because there is a natural funnel there that will allow anything dropped inside the lower distributor cover to fall into the serpentine belt tensioner and when that happens you will be looking for a gun to shoot yourself with. Trust me on that. If you drop anything inside the lower cover on the right bank, you will also become familiar with the procedure for removing your serpentine belt tensioner and alternator. Take you time and it's a piece of cake. BTW, after I got the caps and rotors out, they really were not in bad shape after 102K. I wouldn't have replaced them if I had X-ray vision and could see what kind of shape they were in without removal. Once they were removed there was no way I was going to put the old parts back on. The ignition wireset was another story after 102K. When I pulled the sparkplug connectors off, on three of the plugs, the wiring inside the extention tube for the plugs separated and a section of the wire stayed on the plug. All of the wires checked bad as far as ohmic restistance was concerned. The reason I replaced the ignition parts was that the car had developed a miss occassionally at idle and when running hard. I couldn't tell if it was a fuel injector or ignition miss but when I raised the hood after dark when it was missing occassionally, I noticed an arc coming off the high tension lead of the left bank ignition coil when it missed so it was a no brainer ignition problem. I replaced the wireset with a Borg Warner wireset along with Borg Warner caps and rotors along with NGK OE style platinum plugs. What a difference it made in the car, smooth as silk once again, can't feel the engine running at idle and nothing but smooth power on acceleration. I also used dielectric grease on the sparkplug leads to prevent them from seizing in the future . The Borg Warner wireset was the same 5MM size as the original leads which was is good because they fit the clips that hold the wireset in position. They come with a lifetime warranty and are very reasonably priced also from O'Reilley's . They also measured a very low ohmic value, less than 2K ohm resistance for the longest leads.

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LOL 92Lex, don't you just hate it when that happens. I might not have worried too much about one of the rubber caps but I dropped an 8MM 1/4" drive socket down there. None of my magnets would retrieve it either, found it tucked in a corner under the serpentine tensioner after I beat my head on the garage floor for half an hour first.

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  • 11 months later...

:cries:

I have 93 LS400. Today, I planned to replace Spark plugs,Cables,Distributor caps & rotors with copy of www.lexls.com-How to Replace the Spark Plugs & Ignition. Everything was smooth enough except removing two timing belt covers for caps and rotors. anyone has detailed instruction or photos how to remove two covers? how many screws I have to remove all together? Please help me. Thanks.

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