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metaspace

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Sorry, I'll stick with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Again recommendations are just that, recommendations. Again most people will not justify the huge delta in price when comparing them together. Most people do not understand the different grades and groups of oil, additive package etc.

Do you think a manufacture will say go XX miles in dino and 3X in synthetic, when most do not even know why they can?

If you do some homework there is a HUGE difference in dino oils and synthetic. If you read up on it, you will know why you can go longer.

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jragosta: my dad has forgotten more about engines than alot of people will ever know. i know quite a bit about them too if i do say so myself :P  i would NEVER knowingly put info on this board that would cause damage to another persons vehicle or cause personal injury.

im not even sure which comment you are referring to, but i jyst wanted to throw that out there, if we didnt knwo anything about cars, we wouldnt be in this coversation.  people who dont knwo anything about cars dont worry about what oil is in it, they trust the speedylube to worry about that.

No one ever disputed that you know a lot about cars.

But when your advice conflicts with the manufacturer's recommendation, I am simply recommending that people go with the manufacturer.

Lexus designed the car. They've tested the car for millions of miles. They've collected reams of scientific data. They have to offer a warranty on the car. They service hundreds of thousands of cars.

It's not very likely that your experience exceeds that.

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The Mobil 1 website provides only generic car care advice, not Toyota /  Lexus specific advice. Below is a good example of how the Mobil 1 website can lead Toyota / Lexus owners down a path of self destruction:

For years and years Mobil 1 has claimed its 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil "eases gear shifting in manual transmissions"  While this may be true on a zero degree winter morning, countless thousads of owners who have tried it during the spring, summer and fall have found it causes stiff, notchy gear shifting and gear clash. Result: prematurely chipped gear teeth and prematurely worn out gear synchronizers.

Then also consider how Mobil recklessly recommended 25,000 mile oil changes when Mobil 1 first came out and how Mobil never admitted its early formulations of Mobil 1  cause oil seal leaks in older cars until years later.

Bottom line: Following the advice of Mobil is somewhat risky while following the advice of the Toyota / Lexus engineers is not.

I do not use M1 gear fluid so I will pass on that.

But when Mobil came out they had different POA and esters. They could go longer but confused the heck out of people with their interval and the manual. Yes, they had seal leaks along with our oils since they did not have seal enlargers. Again that was a long time ago and all have been fixed. Also I do however commend Amsoil, Fleetguard and Redline for standing by extended drains.

Mobil 1 is improved and is a lot better now then ever. Can you go longer with M1, yup. I have seen people that go 25 to 50% longer with M1 with zero problems.

A synthetic oil is not even in the same ballpack as a dino oil. I would not put do not trust into engineers since we do screw up and most times $$$ are behind designs, not the design itself.

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jragosta: my dad has forgotten more about engines than alot of people will ever know. i know quite a bit about them too if i do say so myself :P  i would NEVER knowingly put info on this board that would cause damage to another persons vehicle or cause personal injury.

im not even sure which comment you are referring to, but i jyst wanted to throw that out there, if we didnt knwo anything about cars, we wouldnt be in this coversation.  people who dont knwo anything about cars dont worry about what oil is in it, they trust the speedylube to worry about that.

No one ever disputed that you know a lot about cars.

But when your advice conflicts with the manufacturer's recommendation, I am simply recommending that people go with the manufacturer.

Lexus designed the car. They've tested the car for millions of miles. They've collected reams of scientific data. They have to offer a warranty on the car. They service hundreds of thousands of cars.

It's not very likely that your experience exceeds that.

it sounds to me liek you are a person who will never do a performance mod to their car for the reason that its not directly reccomended by the manufacuter...and thats cool, but if you read up on synthetic, you will knwo why its better. again, im sorry i get defensive, but when i see potential misinformation i jump on it, and maybe i do jump the gun a little bit, but dude, synth is a must for anyone who is looking to make their car last a long time. yes, your car wll likely last long enough with conventional oil, but when i buy a car, i will drive it into the ground. i guess i was assuming others do this as well. my apoloigies.

but WHERE does my reccomendation Conflict with that of toyota/lexus. just becuase they say you dont need it, doesnt mean they advise against it, which is what i take you to mean when you say this:

But when your advice conflicts with the manufacturer's recommendation, I am simply recommending that people go with the manufacturer.

i understand your reason behind your suggestion...it is a safe one. i am simply throwing out an alternative. show me one single place where Lexus/Toyota Reccomends against a synthetic oil, and i will retract my suggestion. no hard fellings. B)

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Meta,

This usually is a pretty loaded question to ask what oil one should use (I as well as many others on these forums use either Mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30 synthetic.....10W being for owners with 75k miles & up mainly). Again, there is much discussion between the likes of regular 'dino' oil VS. synthetic so many can's of worms can be opened up here. The basic bottom line here is as long as you use a quality brand name engine oil with a quality oil filter (stay away from Fram oil filters) & change the oil as per your owners manual instructions you should be fine. It's that simple! Good Luck.

:cheers:

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Meta,

This usually is a pretty loaded question to ask what oil one should use (I as well as many others on these forums use either Mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30 synthetic.....10W being for owners with 75k miles & up mainly).  Again, there is much discussion between the likes of regular 'dino' oil VS. synthetic so many can's of worms can be opened up here.  The basic bottom line here is as long as you use a quality brand name engine oil with a quality oil filter (stay away from Fram oil filters) & change the oil as per your owners manual instructions you should be fine.  It's that simple!  Good Luck.

  :cheers:

Crap i just put a fram filter on yesterday, whats wrong with them?

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Sprung for the bosch filter last time, $6.99. my car is worth it HAHA.

Would you consider using a Toyota filter or a Fram filter in a new German luxury car like a Mercedes? Or just a Bosch filter or Mercedes filter?

frams have issues with their anti-drainback valves not working correctly...this =very bad for your engine...

there are 2 oils i would NEVER EVER USE and they are Pennzoil and Quaker State. i have had engines open that have had these oils in them for over 75K, and the oil passeges are clogged and GUNKED with nasty crap. these are the only oils i have seen do this, and i have sen it in 5 totally different engines. although none werre toyotas, it doesnt make me feel any better about using it.

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Should i change my oil again just to put a new filter on? Is there a pretty good chance that im not going to have a problem if i just put a different filter on in 2500-3000 miles.

In other words is this something that needs to be changed right now, or at the next oil change?

Thanks

Chris

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Should i change my oil again just to put a new filter on? Is there a pretty good chance that im not going to have a problem if i just put a different filter on in 2500-3000 miles.

In other words is this something that needs to be changed right now, or at the next oil change?

Thanks

Chris

many people use frams, most never have problems, btu their filter capabilites arent all that great either, i woudl just change it, you dont have to change the oil compoletely, just the filter, pull the old one off, and stick the new one on, then top off.

i would go with STP, Bosch, K&N or toyota OEM.

its up to you, now that you know, dont put another one on, you should be ok if you do a regular change interval. the problems arise mainly when the oil gets old, with fram filters, they dont liek dirty oil. i used one on a chevy astro van and i ended up replacing a motor, due to the faulty anti drainback valve, crap that had clogged in the fliter came out and got in the pasages, went through the crankcase and spun the #2, 4, and 5 rod bearings on the 4.3L V6. :blink: not a big deal, i had a 350 in the garage on a hoist...i just swapped in the 350 and made it into a drag van, my dad and i called it the "draggin shaggin wagon!" :D

but the point is, that it does happen, i woudl never go over 2500 miels on a fram oil filter ever, but thats because i would never put another one on any car. but you should be alright this time, just dump it after 3K.

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chris, save yourself the obsessing and don't waste you thoughts on it.

you will be fine. you can wait until your next regularly scheduled oil change. It will do minimal damage if any damage at all until then. When you do change it, just go back to a better grade filter.

happy motoring!

steviej.

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