Brownfeld Posted August 23, 2004 Posted August 23, 2004 My practically new 2001 ES300 (13,000) has always had a problem starting in Winter. I live in New York City and keep it in an unheated garage in the winter. Sometimes I don't use the car for a couple of months and then it has a hard time starting. Once I hadn't used it for 5 days and it wouldn't start! Help, I'm about to give up on Lexus!!! The dealer has changed the battery three times, but that's obviously not the problem. Is this a common problem? Maybe the car is just too hi-tech for me. Thanks, Brownfeld
Lexusfreak Posted August 23, 2004 Posted August 23, 2004 It's a good question. I don't know of many owners that have there ES just sit like that for long periods of time without being driven. Perhaps all the 'Toy's' on the car including the security system that has a flashing red light on the dash when the car is locked up, slowly but surely drains the battery down when not used that often. If you are going to let the car sit that long (car's are built to be driven fairly often then not), I suggest to disconnect the battery before you go so it does not completely drain.....try that & seee what happens when you re-connect the terminals as it should hold it's charge. The only downside to this is all your radio pre-set's, clock, memory seats settings will constantly have to be adjusted & perhaps even other electronic equipment (ore detailed information should be in your owners manual, if you don't have one, get one!). That's the best I can suggest, good luck! B) DON'T give up on Lexus just yet! ;) Welcome to the club by the way :)
SKperformance Posted August 23, 2004 Posted August 23, 2004 do you idle your car much? doing this before shutting it off leaves the battery a low voltage than if driven and shut off immediatly as the alternator is not putting out 14.4vdc at idle.
steviej Posted August 24, 2004 Posted August 24, 2004 if you leave the vehicle for long periods of time, invest in a "trickle" battery charger. you hook this up tho the battery (very very simple) when you leave it. Many motorcycle owners do this over the winter when the bike is in storage. The other alternative is to start the car at least once per week and let it run for 10-20 minutes or take it out for a spin. This will help more that just the battery. steviej
jragosta Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 My practically new 2001 ES300 (13,000) has always had a problem starting in Winter. I live in New York City and keep it in an unheated garage in the winter. Sometimes I don't use the car for a couple of months and then it has a hard time starting. Once I hadn't used it for 5 days and it wouldn't start! Help, I'm about to give up on Lexus!!!The dealer has changed the battery three times, but that's obviously not the problem. Is this a common problem? Maybe the car is just too hi-tech for me. Thanks, Brownfeld Everyone seems to be assuming that 'hard time starting' means that it won't crank. Is that the case? If so, the advice given (disconnect the battery before letting the car sit or drive it periodically) is good advice. If that's not the problem, you'll need to be more specific.
amf1932 Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 do you idle your car much?doing this before shutting it off leaves the battery a low voltage than if driven and shut off immediatly as the alternator is not putting out 14.4vdc at idle. Both my '94 & '03 ES's would put out a maximium charge(about 14.5vdc) at idle, with no accessories on. ;)
SKperformance Posted August 26, 2004 Posted August 26, 2004 to be more specific since you are asking again in oppostition................. at "idle"( 600-800 rpm) with a hot engine the 94 will not put out 14.4vdc
amf1932 Posted August 26, 2004 Posted August 26, 2004 Then I guess my voltmeter is wrong. P.S. Like I said both of my ES's and every Lexus car I've checked at idle, with NO load(lights, radio, etc.), put out at least 14.4 volts! This was checked with a highly accurate VOM. In fact my wifes 2001 Toyota Corolla had a similar voltage! Look at the specs in the shop manual before you post. <_<
SKperformance Posted August 26, 2004 Posted August 26, 2004 I am not talking what its specs should be i am talking about what in reality they are. I have yet to find an older ES that is under 1000 rpms that puts out 14.4vdc at idle once the engien is hot and been run for a while ,which is why toyota made a newer pulley in 97-98 for the alternator to speed it up to create proper VDC at idle instead of under powering it. p.s. i Use a 80 series fluke.
amf1932 Posted August 26, 2004 Posted August 26, 2004 At least we agree on one thing...and that's the type of test equipment we use. I used a Fluke meter also, (Model 374ME1890), for these tests. Here's some good reading: http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/vreg.htm
jragosta Posted August 26, 2004 Posted August 26, 2004 I am not talking what its specs should be i am talking about what in reality they are.I have yet to find an older ES that is under 1000 rpms that puts out 14.4vdc at idle once the engien is hot and been run for a while ,which is why toyota made a newer pulley in 97-98 for the alternator to speed it up to create proper VDC at idle instead of under powering it. p.s. i Use a 80 series fluke. It may be that you're mostly testing cars that have a problem. The previous poster is right. A car at idle should put out enough current and voltage to charge a battery. If you let the car with a dead battery idle for 20 minutes, it will have a reasonable level of charge.
SKperformance Posted August 26, 2004 Posted August 26, 2004 It was the nature of the pulley and the alternator not a specific car. All of them have the problem unless it got a rebuild alt with a smaller pulley. Which is why Toyota stopped using such a large pulley.
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