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Posted

I think my car is soon going to need front brake pads again. When I stop after driving on the highway, they have a "unsmoothness" about them that only started about 4 days ago. They were installed 11K miles ago, but shouldn't they last longer than this? I think it had Toyota brand pads installed. How often do you have to change the front brake pads on your car?


Posted

that is usually a characteristic of warped or uneven rotors........when you had your brake pads replaced did they "machine" the rotors for you as well?

Posted

No, they were installed 4000 miles before I bought it from the previous owner. I assume/assumed the rotors are/were fine, because there are no "pulsations" from the brakes until most recently and now I can start to notice a little of that.

Posted

that pulsation could be from loose wheel bearing, just jack up each tire and grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and see if there is any movement. If there is than you have loose wheel bearing. Usually you can feel it when you come to a stop sign real slow and the front end feels like it is moving up and down.

as far as the breaks go to autozone and get a set of Performance Friction Carbon Matallic pads, you will not be able to wear them out and they are way better than anything that toyota makes, my jeep has 80,000+, may ford torino has a set on them from 1994, and my ls400 has over 40,000 miles on them. I just wish they made a set for the rear of the Lexus

Posted
that pulsation could be from loose wheel bearing, just jack up each tire and grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and see if there is any movement. If there is than you have loose wheel bearing. Usually you can feel it when you come to a stop sign real slow and the front end feels like it is moving up and down.

as far as the breaks go to autozone and get a set of Performance Friction Carbon Matallic pads, you will not be able to wear them out and they are way better than anything that toyota makes, my jeep has 80,000+, may ford torino has a set on them from 1994, and my ls400 has over 40,000 miles on them. I just wish they made a set for the rear of the Lexus

More good news about my car..... :( :P

Posted

it doesnt matter when rotors were installed, you overheated them with hard breaking and then u were holding brakes while car was not moving and they bent. you shoudl be able to do more then 11k on ur brake pads plus you have a sensor that will tell u when to change them. in the meantime just go to any shop and them to resurface your front rotors

Posted
plus you have a sensor that will tell u when to change them.

kinda off topic, but once the 'brake wear limit' light comes on, is it true that the sensor is compromised?

Posted
it doesnt matter when rotors were installed, you overheated them with hard breaking and then u were holding brakes while car was not moving and they bent. you shoudl be able to do more then 11k on ur brake pads plus you have a sensor that will tell u when to change them. in the meantime just go to any shop and them to resurface your front rotors

Are you talking about the "audible" sensors, because the 1990-92s do not have a "low brake lining" warning lamp.

I may have the rotors turned first.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, to update- I tried changing my brake pads this evening. Got the LF wheel off and went ahead and removed the pads. They are still 75%! I went ahead and put the new ones on and went to the passenger side. The bolt on the bottom of the caliper will barely turn and it seems like it is going to break. My father was there and tried to remove it and it continously is very hard to turn. We thought we was going to break it- so we stopped. Luckily, the pad still on there is 75%. So.... it must be the rear pads causing the roughness I am feeling through the brake pedal. It is not a pulsation, like a rotor is out of round, but just like the pad is worn. The emergency brakes do not work, so I bet it is the rear. I guess I will let the next owner know about this so THEY can replace. How difficult are the rears? I have never changed rear disc brakes- are they about as easy as the front? Thanks in advance.

Posted

yeah, and its not really a "sensor". it just when brake pads are worn to the limit, they stopconducting electricty and enable the cirquit that lights that brake pad light. if you hhave a ligght on even after you changed the pads it means that the wire is broken or the wires were not connected.

Posted
How difficult are the rears? I have never changed rear disc brakes- are they about as easy as the front? Thanks in advance.

yeah......they are no different really, same procedure......it is just a single piston caliper and a smaller pad, thats it....

i just did my rear brake pads yesterday, (they were starting to squeek) it took me about 30 minutes. its a breeze, good luck ;)

Posted

I've posted a reply about "jerky brakes" several times before, and I still believe the following:

If you have a heavy car like a Lexus, and your recently changed pads are giving you trouble, you should change the rotors as well. It's an easy job, and any DIY type can do it easily. I don't believe in simply grinding down the existing rotors, because everyone drives differently, and Joe #1, who never anticipates stopping, and is always slamming on the brakes - never hears squeals and such, while Mr. Careful Joe #2 has noisy brakes all the time, since he is forever anticipating stops.

What I mean is that to be sure you are starting out on a level field, change both the rotors and the pads. The contact items. Then, if you still have a problem, you can go on to other solutions. Have a great day....

Posted
I've posted a reply about "jerky brakes" several times before, and I still believe the following:

If you have a heavy car like a Lexus, and your recently changed pads are giving you trouble, you should change the rotors as well. It's an easy job, and any DIY type can do it easily. I don't believe in simply grinding down the existing rotors, because everyone drives differently, and Joe #1, who never anticipates stopping, and is always slamming on the brakes - never hears squeals and such, while Mr. Careful Joe #2 has noisy brakes all the time, since he is forever anticipating stops.

What I mean is that to be sure you are starting out on a level field, change both the rotors and the pads. The contact items. Then, if you still have a problem, you can go on to other solutions. Have a great day....

Not sure what you mean by "jerky" brakes. My pedal feels smooth, but there is a roughness to it- something I have never had before. The brakes were put on 11000 miles ago and they have been smooth, until about 1000 miles ago. Pads are still 75% as mentioned on the front. If the pads are still good- shouldn't the rotors still be as well? That is why I was thinking it was the rears, since my ER brakes do not work and just from looking through the wheels- they look worn. I am just wondering if they are difficult to replace. Thanks again.

Posted

I really doubt that the rear brakes are the problem with such a heavy car that wants to "dive" forwards when the brakes are applied. I've learned that the way to determine your brake problem is to attack it one method at a time. For the lowest cost. If your pads have adequate thickness, then don't regrind the rotors-replace them. And it's simple. For example:

I bought a 94LS with 99,000 miles. It had a bad steering wheel vibration, and a shudder upon braking. The first thing I did was to have a front wheel rotation and balance. No alignment-it wasn't leaning right or left. Then I replaced the brake pads myself, and had the rotors refaced. This didn't solve the brake shudder. I had wasted money-when I replaced the rotors, the problem was solved. The LS ran like a top.

Upon reviewing the Lexus Owners History of the car that I got from the dealer, it noted that the brakes were shuddering at 90,000 miles, and the previous Owner paid $500 to have the pads replaced-and the rotors refaced. Then at 94,000 miles, the poor guy returned to the dealer with the same brake problem-and they did the same repair for $600-including another REFACING/TURNING of the rotors!! So when I got the car at 99,000, it's obvious that the rotors were worn out, and needed to be replaced. I missed this the first time-dummy...

Replacing the rotors is simple-I got 2 rotors for $60 plus shipping at Rockauto.com. Yes, they're cheap-But I can always replace them now that I know how to do it. And the brakes are now as smooth as silk....

Posted

Thanks. I was just confused because they have been smooth until most recently and the brake pads are still good on the front. I do not understand how "good" brake pads can cause the rotors to go bad. I guess I will replace them if the rear pads are indeed worn out. I just do not know if the rears are more difficult to change than the front, as I have never worked on rear disc brakes before.

Thanks again!

Posted

The rear brake (disk pad) is easier to work on than the front. BUT: if the brake drum (used when the hand brake lever is engaged) is worn, then it may be a bear to replace :(

Posted

Thanks. I did notice something disturbing today, as well as most recently. When driving on wet roads, my ABS (anti-lock) seems to be "activating" a lot more than it used to- even on the same roads and same braking power I have always used if the roads are wet. The tires have not been changed and the tread is still fine on all four. Could this be a sign that my rear pads are bad? Or a sign of? Its getting a little scary to say the least......


Posted

I don't think you have to loosen the lower bolt on the calipers. Remove the top bolt and the inner caliper assembly should rotate out so you can remove the pads. The rear brakes are simple to replace as well. Just make sure you correctly assemble the shims and springs because it might not work right if they are missing. Email me for a PDF on how to do this.

Posted
I don't think you have to loosen the lower bolt on the calipers. Remove the top bolt and the inner caliper assembly should rotate out so you can remove the pads. The rear brakes are simple to replace as well. Just make sure you correctly assemble the shims and springs because it might not work right if they are missing. Email me for a PDF on how to do this.

Thanks VB- I will probably replace them, even if I do sell it. Mainly because of the safety issue. As mentioned, my ABS seems to be "activating" much more recently. Scary.

Posted

Strange that you mentioned the ABS 400. The other day I was driving and some idiot started to blow through a stop sign off a side road. I hit the brakes hard and the ABS activated. Well the ABS works terrible on these cars, it was like I had no brakes! I would rather had had a lock up as I know I would have hit the dude had he continued into the intersection. This was the first time I ever had the ABS activate.

Posted
Strange that you mentioned the ABS 400. The other day I was driving and some idiot started to blow through a stop sign off a side road. I hit the brakes hard and the ABS activated. Well the ABS works terrible on these cars, it was like I had no brakes! I would rather had had a lock up as I know I would have hit the dude had he continued into the intersection. This was the first time I ever had the ABS activate.

I agree- the ABS is lousy on these cars. I have had several other cars in the past with ABS and all worked fine. When activated, they would still seem strong and safely stop the car. On the LS- it is like you have no brakes. Like your car- my ABS rarely activated when I first got it, but lately, it is doing it much more often, even on the same roads where they used to not activate. That is why I was thinking it may be where my rear pads are worn out, because something is also making a "vvvvrrrrr" noise when I apply the brakes at speeds above 45mph, but no pedal vibrations.

About the poorly operating ABS brakes- Just yesterday, I was coming to a stop on a wet road, applied the same brake pressure I always have at that spot on a wet road and ABS kicked in. I thought I was going to plow into the rear of that truck. I do not think it was anything like oil on the road, because it did it a couple of times yesterday at different locations. I have learned that when ABS activates, press the brake as hard as possible and let ABS do the work. It just seems like even more pressure is required on the LS in order for them to work safely. My old 94 Lumina, as well as my 92 Park Avenue had ABS brakes and it worked fine on both of those cars. The Lumina had 4-wheel discs and the Buick had front disc/rear drums. My brakes are mak

Posted

It probably is worth a look at your back brakes. They don't really show up as working poorly until you need them. I guess if the front brakes were having to do all the work, it would put a strain on the front causing them to try to lock and activating the ABS. Makes sense to me. I wish I could disconnect the ABS on the Lexus because they are just to scary.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
It probably is worth a look at your back brakes. They don't really show up as working poorly until you need them. I guess if the front brakes were having to do all the work, it would put a strain on the front causing them to try to lock and activating the ABS. Makes sense to me. I wish I could disconnect the ABS on the Lexus because they are just to scary.

To update- I finally had the time this afternoon to check the rear brake pads. They appear to still be 75%. There is at least 1/4 inch of pad still left on these.

I just do not understand why they are making this "growling" noise when I apply them at highway speeds. In town- they are quiet as a mouse. There is also still no pulsation in the brake pedal, but I can feel "quick unsmoothness" when this sound is occuring. Rotors @ every wheel are still smooth and thick. :unsure:

Guess I will have to live with it (until I sell it).

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