Bubbles

Stock supra springs on an sc will lower it about .4 inches front and .6 in the back, so I'm guessing you should expect 1.5 inches lowering all the way around. You need to use supra shocks because the springs are somewhat different.

The supra drivers seat only has slide forward/back and recline up/down. I believe there's only two or four wires that you'll need. They should be blue and white on both the male and female connectors. You'll have to get a small screwdriver to get the male pins out in order to connect it to the female connector, otherwise you'll have to cut the wires.

I believe I sealed the outer rim of the headlight (it should be a tad bit behind the rubber stripping, but I didn't seal the holes.

I believe its somewhere along the 5th-8th character.

Yah it has come up before. It seems that some people have different opinions about them.

About 3/8" in the front and 5/8" in the back.

The stock offset is 50mm. The same goes for the Supra TT, and the Supra TT 17" wheels will fit on the TT brakes. That's all I know.

I have heard that this Power Mirror Computer Control box is the culprit. It is located behind the dashboard next to the steering wheel column; the area above your right leg while driving. My mirrors don't work either so I tried to save the 2 pounds by taking it off, but after an hour of working upside-down I gave up and left it there. Many people just buy a used computer box and zip-tie it to the existing box and swap over the connections.

Does the humming have an interval sound. Something like: WooWooWooWoo..., or is it Wooooooooooooooooo...? Try turning in both directions somewhat hard at 40+mph and see if the sound changes while you are turning.

I replaced my rear wheel bearings. I think the previous owner got hit in the back, so it might have hit the rear hub and increased the bearing gap. Otherwise, you won't need to repack the bearings. When you start hearing the bearings fail, you just have to replace it - the rear bearings and races cost about $200-300 parts.

It could be the exhaust gas recirculation no?

Was it free? You guys should make a road course, but of course only one goes at a time.

I had this problem... it's a grounding problem. If you hit the brakes, the brake lights go on and grounding problems happen. If you hit the turn signals, same thing, except it's pretty cool how the headlights dim as the turn signal lights up. My fix was to take off the negative battery terminal clamp and sand the inside of that along with the terminal itself. Then do it to the postive side and put the postive side back on then the negative. It'll fix most of your problem (i.e. your car won't die out)

I have read some good reviews on GM Top End Cleaner (haven't heard of it beind done on Japanese cars though). You basically run the car, open a little gap in the throttle body, and then you spray the stuff in until the engine floods with it and stalls. Then you wait for 24 hours or so and turn the car back up, and then a bunch of smoke will come out of the exhaust, which means it did its job. Supposedly you have to do an oil change after that because the cleaner might have passed through the piston rings.

The alternative "fix" is to dim the lighting system all the way down and wait until the led starts to come back to life. Then increase the brightness until it starts to flicker off, and then turn it down a bit.