LSPaul

That does sound like a nice, clean setup! Those two amps together weigh, what, 40-50 pounds or so, right? MDF, by the nature of the stuff, isn't going to do that great structurally with that kind of weight mounted to it... it's going to flex--your concern here. Call in the reinforcements for that. ;-) I didn't see that amp model on RF's site, so I don't know what the current demand would be for the 3KW amp on top of the amp for the drivers--given that Rockford Fosgate recommends a 200A alternator for their 2-2.5KW amps. Cutting the big amp in is going to have a significant demand of current right off the bat, no matter what car it would be mounted in. Are you using any kind of inrush current limiter (also known as a "soft start" device) with your system? An inrush current limiter goes between your charging system and amp power input and should mitigate the HUGE current inrush spike that happens when one powers up a BIG amp. You'll to want to do some research on car audio forums or even check with RF's tech support to see if you really need some sort of current inrush limiter for this setup, and if so, what's the best design to use. There's plenty of guides out there online to calculate your needs and DIY your own limiter, as this is a common issue in the ham radio world--plenty in that crowd use 2KW RF amplifiers, and have to deal with this issue on a larger/higher voltage scale (110/220V in, 2000+V high voltage transformers, etc).

If the seating in the '99s is anything like the earlier cars, say good-bye to the back seats if one wants to mount underneath (plus the resultant heat and amp cooling issues you'd run into). The shape of the seat springing underneath pretty much takes up any available space, plus the driveshaft tunnel makes it too narrow to fit the amp's length. The only flat-ish mounting surface long enough for that big of an amplifier would be behind the seat back, but it's an impossible fit with the seat back in place. Once again, kiss your back seat good-bye. The only space inside the car that I could think of using... if you're not using the original sub mounting hole for anything, is under the parcel shelf cover. You'd need to get an extra parcel shelf skin, cut away a good chunk of it, and build a vented/grilled cover (or access panel!) to fit the amp. Fit grill cloth so it looks stock-ish, sorta' like the original parcel shelf cover, where the opening for the sub rises to the bottom of the rear window. You've gone this far for a custom sound system, might as well keep going! ;-) Failing that, if your subs are bolted down in the trunk, mount a sheet metal plate to the back of the box then mount the amp to that. Done right, it'll add strength to the box, cut down on the box flexing and as a bonus, give you extra metal for heat dissipation. Paul

The proper IAC valve isn't THAT expensive (last one I bought was >$70 from a Toyota dealer selling on eBay) and worth doing right. The easiest way to get at it to do the change is to go at it from underneath, remove the serpentine belt, then the alternator. That will give you enough space and clearance to get at the IAC, plus be able to catch the ATF that will pour out the bottom of the opening. Paul

Hi, Bob-- As with conventional struts, I don't believe air struts between UCF10s and 20s are compatible. 10s and 11s, yes, but not with the '20s. Paul

Yeah, that's what new outside door handles cost. The fact that one can actually *find* a new door handle to buy is pretty amazing, ya' know? Otherwise, '95-97 parts *might* fit (they're both UCF20 cars, like yours, but the part number is slightly different). Given that '98-00 used parts appear to be hard to find, it's worth a try. Good luck! Paul

I was on the hunt for a replacement driver's door handle for my '94 last summer. For the earlier LS400s, the driver's door handles were still available from Lexus dealers (do a web search), but usually had to be ordered in. I found the best pricing online from a dealer in the Denver, CO area, but all that was left out there were handles in black, and I would have had to paint one to match. I ended up finding a good used driver's side front door handle on eBay in the correct color (a lucky find, as mine's the fairly rare "warm gray pearl" that was used on the 5th Anniversary cars. Paul

If I recall correctly, each O2 sensor has its own engine code, so if the CEL stays out, drive on. In my own experience, the other upstream sensor failed not long after the other. I'd hang on to the other new sensor as you'll likely need it eventually. Paul

Hi, Walt-- If we're talking about a Windows-flavored computer, do a right-hand mouse click on each file name, then save it to your computer. Usually it'll land in the "documents/downloads" directory. Mac? Don't know, sorry! Hope this helps-- Paul

Once you dig down to that level, the differences will be pretty clear. The temp sensor that drives the temp gauge is a single-wire connector, black casing on it. For the coolant temp sensor that sends signals to the engine ECU, the connector's green in color and is a two-wire connector on both my '93 (now sold) and '94 LSes. Use care in removing the connector, as the plastic's likely a bit on the brittle side and the locking portion will snap off pretty easily. For the temp gauge issue, you only need to deal with the single-wire/black connector. Also, for parts numbers, I've had good luck with the site, www.toyodiy.com as a reference source. You'll need to register on the site (a Russian Toyota enthusiast site, for what it's worth) to get access to the parts lookup functions. It's not a proper electronic parts catalog, but it's been accurate for my needs over the last few years. Most auto parts stores should carry the sensors, no big deal--shouldn't need a part number. Call or check online in advance. Bring sockets and extensions (mostly 10mm, but also bring a 12, and some deep sockets to remove the temp sensor(s) from the intake manifold, if need be. If I recall correctly, that's either a 17 or 19mm?). If you do have to pull either of the sensors, be prepared to move quickly, as coolant will come out of either opening once you've pulled the sensors. Best, Paul

I've seen paper shop manuals (one manual for the car, one manual is for the electricals) pop up for sale on the usual online auction website. Otherwise, one can go online to Lexus' site; for $15/day, you can buy access to Toyota/Lexus TIS (technical information system) and download what you need or as much as you can download in 24 hours' time. All of the sections are in Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) format. Paul

I can't tell for certain, but that price is typical for one O2 sensor at a time. Paul

The shop manual has a process to see whether it's the sender or the temp gauge portion of the instrument cluster. It's in the "body electrical" section of the manual, pages BE-175 and 176. To check the sender, the manual tells you to start by disconnecting the temp sender wire. With the key on, the temp gauge should read 'cold'. Next, ground the sender wire through a 3.4 watt 12v bulb--(a 194 is probably close enough at 3.8 or so watts). Put the bulb in series with the sender connector, connect a test lead to that and ground it. Then, turn the ignition switch on. The bulb should light up and the temp gauge should climb. If that is the case, replace the temp sender. If not, you'll need to take out the instrument cluster to check resistance on the connections to the temp gauge. Once you've disassembled the instrument cluster, the manual says to check resistance between the three connections on the back of the gauge. Between terminals A-B, it should be approximately 173 ohms. Between A-C, 54 ohms. Between B-C, 220 ohms. If this isn't right, then I suppose one could get a used cluster from a junkyard and remove the temp gauge part to replace in your grandson's car. There's two coolant temp sensors/senders that are adjacent to each other under the hood. They're located just behind/underneath the top side ignition coil in the intake manifold--a bit of a pain to get at. I've pulled the air intake ducting, then removed the cover over the ignition wires, then removed the top ignition coil to get at the sensors. The sender that drives the temp gauge is a one-wire sensor, not the green-colored two-wire connector, which is for the coolant temp sensor that connects to the ECU/FI system (if that one's bad you'll get trouble code/DTC 24). Hope this helps. Paul

Yes, "upstream" would equal "main" O2 sensors. You're in the right place if you're looking above the catalytic converter on both right and left side. Denso is the OE part, IIRC. I can't remember if the code clears once you replace the sensors, but worst case, clear the codes after you've done the job by pulling the fuel injection system fuse for 20-30 seconds (or disconnecting the battery for a similar time). Paul

My own experience with that is after I had the leaking exhaust gaskets replaced on my '93 (at the cat-exhaust pipe junction), I eventually ended up having to replace both upstream O2 sensors. Paul

Where at in Iowa? Iowa City here... When one turns the key to start it up and cranks the starter/engine, nearly all of the instrument cluster lights DO light up, briefly. Do all the lights stay on after one lets go of the key after starting, or do they go out, as normal? Paul

If it's a matter of a leaking or failing air bag (which sounds like your case), no. FWIW, a decent used air strut will typically run $100-150, depending on condition, and the fronts are quite easy to change out. If it's an electronic issue with the suspension, yes, sorta. Paul

I've had to deal with this recently on my '94. I have been getting Code 13 intermittently pretty much from the moment I got the car back on the road a couple months ago. It was a bear to start cold (chugged pretty badly), but eventually got better as the car warmed up... mostly. That got really old over the last couple months/7k miles (!), so I dug into it again a couple nights ago... Both cam sensors were in spec--resistance was in-range both warm and cold, and the CPS was just fine. So, I dug into it further, pulling more plastic bits off. With the crank at TDC/0 degrees, the LH cam (driver's side) was fine, but the RH side (passenger side of the car) was off one tooth to the left. Today's project? Correct this problem. What happens when one removes the TB tensioner is that there's slack on the right hand side of the belt, and when one deploys the tensioner, it pushes up on the timing belt tensioner, removing the slack and thus, it rotates the RH cam to the left... If you set the right hand cam on the timing mark before putting the tensioner back in, you'll end up one tooth off to the left. I did on mine was this: Once I got the tensioner out (and re-armed), and the rest of it disassembled, I rotated the RH cam one tooth to the *right*, put the belt back on, keeping the side of the belt on the LH side of the engine (to my right, going toward the water pump) snug. I re-installed the cam sensor bracket and distributor rotor, then installed and deployed the TB tensioner, which took the slack out of the timing belt and... rotated that right hand/passenger side cam exactly one tooth to the left... meaning I was dead on. As a bonus, with that bank on the mark, the center line of the distributor rotor lined up perfectly with the notch on the left hand side of the cam sensor bracket. I cranked the engine by hand a couple rotations, and all was on the marks. I put the rest of the car back together and started it up--no CELs, nice and easy cold start, smooth idle, etc. Hope this helps. Paul '93 LS, '94 LS 5th Anniversary

Front or rear driver's side? On the early ('90-94 cars) Rear driver's side would be matter of finding a used air strut for that corner. Fronts (right/left) interchange; rears are specific to that corner. As for the conversion kits out there, probably the best bet for the proper Lexus ride would be to find a set of used, low-mile OEM strut assemblies from a non-air ride car. As far as aftermarket stuff goes: In my experience, the Strutmasters setup has a slightly high ride height (okay, it feels like about the equivalent of the air setup on 'high'). They ride a bit firmer (supposedly their springs are made by Eibach), but I'm good with that. The rear shock inserts on mine failed quickly, but KYB Excel Gs have been a good pairing with the Strutmaster springs. FWIW, I recently came across a full set of the Strutmaster replacement struts in a pick-a-part yard in central Iowa on a '92 LS. Suncore's springs feel a bit on the wimpy side, but are probably a closer match to the OE ride. If it were me, I'd check car-part.com and the usual auction site for a used air strut and change it out. Paul '93 LS and '94 LS 5th Anniversary

90-94s are pretty much interchangeable, suspension-wise. '95-'00 are different than the early cars. Paul

Very clean '94 you have, by the way. I took another look at my '93 key (same as '94) a moment ago. It looks like the transmitter antenna is soldered to the key, but I couldn't figure out how to get the back half of the remote body off the key shank. Worst case, buy a used '93-94 key with remote for the upper half of the shell--at least you'd then be able to put a key ring back on the key. Paul

Wow... an early key remote that still works? I believe the radio transmitter guts are bonded (soldered/strap?) to the part of the shell that's attached to the key. The push button and top half of the remote shell will swap, no problem. It's been several years since I messed with the remote to my '93, and I've never bothered replacing the battery on the remote to my '94. Paul

I'm one for two with stripes on my first gen cars. The *fully* loaded '93 doesn't have them, my '94 Anniversary car has them. They're not tape stripes, either.

I find that it's much faster to remove the headlight assembly to do this. You'll need a 10mm socket/ratchet, and an extension, and a Phillips head screwdriver. Remove the screw, carefully remove the corner light, like VB said. There are four bolts and one nut that hold it in, two on top, two on bottom (one under the corner light and the other on the other side of the light). The nut is through the fender sheet metal, under the top lip of the fender. Once the nut and bolts are out, the assembly lifts up from the front and center of the car. I usually unplug the fog light and headlight connector now, then do the bulb change. On the headlight assembly, there's a plastic lock ring; unscrew and remove it. There's also a rubber seal; lift that off. Now, there's a clip that holds the bulb in place. Unhook one side and pivot it out. Pull the old bulb, put the new 9003/H4 bulb in (it's keyed and only goes in one way). As VB says, don't touch the glass (if you do, clean it with rubbing alcohol to get any skin oils off). Re-hook the wire clip, put the rubber gasket and lock ring back on, hook up the wires to the fog light and head light and reinstall. DO consider replacing the other side bulb while you have the hood up-the old bulb will be considerably dimmer than the new one and probably isn't far behind the first failed bulb. Replacing both bulbs should take 20-30 minutes, max, even at a leisurely pace. Paul '93 and '94 LS400

For ATF, I've successfully used Valvoline's import synthetic stuff (bought at the nearest O'Reilly's to me), which lists T-IV compatibility. No issues in either of my LSes. Mobil 3309 ATF is also directly compatible. Paul

You'll want to start with the basics--did you check the fluid level? Follow the procedure in the owner's manual to determine fluid level (transmission warm versus cool). I had a similar issue with my '94 a few weeks ago when I put the car into service after it had sat a long time (probably a couple years before I bought it as well as the first year I owned it). There was a considerable delay after I put it into gear when it was very cold outside. The color of the fluid on the dipstick was fine, but it was down a full quart. Topped it off properly and all has been well since. Paul '93 LS400 and '94 LS400