douglasmiami

I'm curious what you've discovered on this site regarding transmission service? There have been various posts regarding transmission work, but you seem to have gathered some information. I too have a '99 RX 300. I didn't realize it was recommended to change transmission fluid every 15k miles? That's frequent. Also, what types of fluid are out there? I'm not mechanically inclined, so I would likely just let someone else change the fluid, unless you've discovered differently? And what is a "real deal" service manual? Thanks in advance for your advice.

Paul, Congratulations on the purchase. I don't have any miraculous suggestions other than making sure that your Lexus has a very good coat of sealant and wax on the car and bumpers. In my personal experience, a good coat of wax minimizes paint damage, and minor scrapes can often be buffed out with a cloth and a little pressure. Lexus also makes touch up paint for true deeper nicks and scratches, although I don't think it matches perfectly for various reasons. Good luck.

RX Lover - did you buy it, or are you leasing. If you bought, then you have a right to have it fixed. If it's a lease, I would make sure that it's documented so that you don't get billed for it at the end. You're just gonna have to elevate to the right person. I've rarely seen an issue that cannot get resolved with a targeted, controlled "tantrum." Open up that can of whoop !Removed!.

I did insert a post asking for feedback on same issue. I was a bit surprised by the amount of tranny problems, but I don't think there's a consolidated posting string yet. I have not had a transmission problem, per se , but I do experience transmission hesitation when I accelerate. I was told by another reply that this was a "normal" issue for the 1999 RX 300, and was a design flaw, but not covered by warranty as there was nothing really broken. My fear, of course, is that it's indicative of future issues (coincidentally after warranty expires). Let me know if I can help in any other way.

What exactly is involved in "suspension support"? Shocks, springs? And what is the estimate to fix from current dealer? I too have a 1999 RX 300 and it makes a strange sound in the back when I hit a bump or hole. Doesn't happen all the time, but I have noticed it. If the cost is significant, and I'm guessing it would be, I would get a written estimate from the current dealer, fax it to the old dealer along with your original invoice and ask to speak to someone who can make a decision (manager). If that doesn't work, I would elevate it up to someone above him - dealer rep, district manager, etc. The worst that can happen is they say no. If they originally stated that nothing was wrong, and now there is something wrong, I think you do have a position. If you have any friends in the legal business, perhaps they can help you do a little brainstorming.

JPI - do you recommend taking the RX to Lexus dearler to flush the transmission fluid, or can I take it to an oil change place? Is there a specific brand fluid that should go into tranny, or are they all similar? SKPerformance, does not using the parking brake wear down the tranny? I've never heard that before. So you suggest always using the parking brake, regardless of make or model? I live in Miami, which is as flat as cities come, but if it wears down the gears, I'm all for using parking brake. Thanks. ps. how do you insert someone else's response as a quote, I guess, so that you can respond directly to that sentence or paragraph?

I just replied to another post by someone with a transmission problem ('99 RX 300). The transmission issue is starting to concern me. I don't know if this is just a small, unique sample or if this forum could be considered an accurate predictor of issues, but I don't like it. Anyone else have problems with transmissions in the RX line?

I too have a 1999 RX 300, although I just bought recently. I am curious what happened with your transmission? I have noticed a little slippage in mine, but other people tell me that it's normal with this year - an "engineering defect" they call it. Also, you list the 90k mile checkup with a dollar figure of $1600. Is that what you expect to pay for the service? If not, how or why did you come up with that figure? Regarding your question as to keep or not keep your car, I will say that I just purchased mine for slightly under $18k with 49k miles on it (Kelly Blue Book value). That ballpark might help you in your decision.

Curious what happened with the old transmission - did it just completely give out, or did it start slipping and then you had it checked out? I too have a '99 RX 300. I've noticed that the transmission "hesitates" when I accelerate. But I wasn't convinced it was a problem. Rebuilt transmission is standard practice. Similar to car thefts - insurance will rarely if ever replace with new parts. I don't think that it's worth paying for a new one, unless the difference between the two is very little.

Any experiences or suggestions for replacement windshield wiper blades? I have a 1999 RX 300. The wiper blades are showing signs of wear. I would like to keep the stock wiper style, but don't know whether or not to get from Lexus or auto parts store. Or, if there are outstanding wiper blade products out there, I might be interested in trying. Thanks.

Steve, In general, what are your feelings on the Klasse products? Do they work well independently of each other, or do they only show impressive results when used together? For example, could I use the P21 polish and then a Klasse sealant followed by #16 paste wax?

Steve, I ran into some time constraints this weekend and ended up doing a "quickie" job on my RX. I washed twice to remove build up, but decided to forgo the clay and swirl mark remover. I used the Klasse AIO and followed with Klasse Sealant and then the Meguiar's #16. The paint came out beautifully, but the clear surface has also greatly magnified all of the scratches, nicks and swirl marks on the paint. I didn't realize to what extent until I saw today when the late afternoon sun hit the paint just right...so many minor scratches and defects in the paint. I was deflated. In addition, the roof of the car is pretty bad in terms of water spots, very persistent bug stains and a variety of other splotches of unknown origin. So, questions: 1. How often can I / should I repeat this polish/seal/wax routine? Does this process slowly remove paint, or is it completely safe? 2. What can be done about the horrid swirl marks and scratches? Do you think the Swirl Mark Remover is the key? 3. Any good suggestions for more abrasive product for the roof? Or would clay do the trick? 4. What's the best suggestion for softening or hiding nicks in the paint. I swear the previous owner followed overflowing dumptrucks as a hobby - a close inspection of the grill and hood after polishing revealed this. Don't get me wrong, for the most part, and from a slight distance, the car looks great. But upon very close inspection, you can really see all the imperfections. Thanks. DDS

I have a 1999 RX 300 that I just purchased. I also feel a slight transmission hesitation at times. More often than not, actually. Is this normal in this model year? I don't know that I have the same technological advancement that the 2004 models would. Any advice is appreciated. DDS

Arabian, Love to hear how your upholstery came out. I have a fairly "distressed" armrest on my RX 300. Looks like the previous owner tried to paint it with something, but the underlying leather doesn't appear to have been treated or conditioned. Now the paint and the leather are cracking and peeling together. I don't know whether or not to have an upholsterer fix, buy a new armrest from Lexus ($200), or try one of these kits, like the one you mentioned above. DDS

Regarding the bumper and waxing, my RX 300 was in an accident prior to my purchase. I don't know the details, but I have noticed that the paint on the front bumper has begun, in two spots, to peel. What can I do about this? Can I seal it with anything and then wax over? I'm trying to avoid the paint peeling any further. Thanks.

Wondering what happened to Blake's Leatherique treatment? I have puchased the Lexol products at the suggestion of some in this forum. I haven't used all over seats, but I tested on portion of my driver's seat. Although no one in this particular forum commented on sticky seats, someone else in another forum on this site did. I found the same problem. I applied cleaner and immediately the conditioner, which I left on for a few minutes and then wiped off. The seats softened a little, but were sticky and tacky for several days. Anyone else have this problem? Is it possible that I didn't leave on long enough? I don't believe the Lexol instructions recommended leaving it on for hours or days. Also, mentioned by same forum as above was the lack of elasticity in the leather after conditioning with the Lexol. He likened it to wrapping a baseball with a piece of paper and then removing the baseball - paper stays crumpled in that shape. Any thoughts on any of this? I was hoping to clean and condition the seat this weekend, because, as the original author of this forum noted, my front seats are close to the cardboard stage, although not in bad shape, considering.

Steve, Reading back over your posts, I realize that you disagree with trying to use swirl mark remover by hand, and therefore not trying to remove marks, but just hide them. Is it that you don't think that a small buffer will do the job? doing the job by hand wouldn't work?, or it's just easier to hide and wax more often? DDS

Steve, I guess it's coming down to how necessary is it to "seal." The P21 doesn't sound like it seals, nor does the Klasse All in One. Also, if I use a Swirl Mark remover, would I still need to hide the swirl marks (hopefully they're gone)? When you refer to "prepping" for the Klasse, I'm planning to wash, clay, and then glaze/seal/wax. Is that sufficient prep? Thanks for all your help. DDS

Steve, Thanks again for response. I'm sorry, but you've confused me. You say to skip the P21S Glaze step in first paragraph, but in second paragraph you imply skipping the Klasse All in One (sealant) step. Is it the application order of the products that you disagree with, or the need for one or more of the steps itself? I've heard that the Klasse (Sealant) product with a good Carnauba Wax produces an amazingly deep shine. You're saying it's more of a cleaner than a sealant and not necessary? Just go straight to final wax from the glaze? Would you recommend using electric buffer with the Carnauba Wax or doing it by hand? Again, your advice is much appreciated.

Steve, Regarding washing car repeatedly, I have heard that a Dawn wash after a Swirl Mark Remover and after Polish (Glaze - P21S Paintwork Cleanser) is recommended. Can you clarify? Also, regarding my original string above, I have a '99 RX 300 Black. Apparently color is important. Car was not babied by previous owner, but it's not in too bad of shape. Thanks again.

Steve, Thanks for the reply and advice. I have looked often at the Autopia site. In on article titled the "Perfect Shine," the author recommends a series of treatments as follows: Wash / Clay / Swirl Remover / Glaze (P21S Paintwork Cleanser) / Sealed (Klasse All-in-One) / Waxed (Carnauba Wax). Do you not recommend the Swirl Remover Polish? I have an orbital buffer I purchased from Sears. It's not industrial strength, just easier. Do you recommend using it anywhere in the above steps? Anywhere not to use it? Your advice is really appreciated. Thanks for your time and attention. DDS

I'm having some difficulty with all of the products and terminology regarding detail of the exterior paint. Could someone please help? - What is the difference between a "fine rubbing compound," a scratch remover and a swirl remover? How will the products for each of these differentiate themselves? - For the Clay products, is it necessary to treat entire car, or just areas of need? - Also, for a few pockets of swirl marks, is it recommended to treat the entire surface of car, or just where I notice imperfections? - Between the processes of paint-cleaning clay, scratch/swirl removal. glazing, and sealing, is it necessary to wash my car repeatedly in between each of these steps? - Many products are referred to as polishes, but have very different uses. How do I keep them straight? Glazes are called polishes, Swirl Removers are called polishes, Sealers are called polishes, etc. Thanks.

Could someone please advise. I sent following e-mail to Zaino Bros. I would appreciate any advice on their response. I'm a little leary of using anything harsh on my paint. Thanks. DDS > Dear Zaino Brothers, > > I just purchased a 1999 Lexus RX 300. Although the car is in fairly good shape, I can tell that the car was not detailed often. Unfortunately, after washing, I can tell that the paint is thin, and the deep gloss that once was certainly there is now gone. Once the paint has diminished, to what extent can it be brought back? Can I get back that thick gloss that I'm sure it once had? What route could get it back (clay? polishing? waxing? And in what order?). Answer: Zaino is non abrasive and will not remove oxidation... or bring back dull paint... Oxidation needs to be removed with an abrasive product... like 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirl Mark Remover #39009 see following tips...

Can anyone help me here. I'm attaching an e-mail I sent to Zaino Bros. Can anyone tell me if they agree with their recommendation or not? I'm a bit afraid of an abrasive product. I want this paint to last for a long time and look great. DDS Dear Zaino Brothers, > > I just purchased a 1999 Lexus RX 300. Although the car is in fairly good shape, I can tell that the car was not detailed often. Unfortunately, after washing, I can tell that the paint is thin, and the deep gloss that once was certainly there is now gone. Once the paint has diminished, to what extent can it be brought back? Can I get back that thick gloss that I'm sure it once had? What route could get it back (clay? polishing? waxing? And in what order?). Answer: Zaino is non abrasive and will not remove oxidation... or bring back dull paint... Oxidation needs to be removed with an abrasive product... like 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirl Mark Remover #39009 see following tips...

Can anyone explain the difference between the NXT Wax and the Color X product? It's my understanding that they're both from Maguiars.