mburnickas

I know but most times (in general), the dealers only know about the oils from what Amsoil writes or states. If someone asks a question outside of there pretty flyers or books on P, Zn, CA, Tan, TBN, base oils, add pkg manufacture, etc etc 99% of them will not know. Our ask them if there new oils contain calcium-magnesium overbased sulfonates or what kind of esters it contains. They will not know or have a clue here. Nevermind the “upline and the down lines”. It is all flat out a joke I feel. Product good/very good; complete administration and business practice are not. Amsoil loves to not finish the story with there tests in there flyers. The only print what makes Amsoil stand out and not the complete story. Most times they do not even post all the data either. Nevermind if you ask the TS managers (Ed or Darryl) if there oils can really go 25K drains. Nope since it is not real world situations and most times the oils will not last that long. These drains are in ideal conditions. I used to believe in there product 100% for all/every application, but the more and more I read, the stone is getting chipped away.....fast.

You are partially correct; but#1 Based on the numbers from Amsoil you are not gaining much "start-up protection" if anything (as I posted before & now). Again, based on CCS; the CCs is only a slightly delta (very small and it is8.2%) and four ball the 0w-30 loses by 3% min here. If I am missing something please show me since there data says otherwise. I posted these before; This is the data from Amsoil and un-used oil tests. VI: ASL= 178, 0w30=194 (more VI needed in 0w-30) HTHS: ASL=>3.5, 0w30=3.4 (ASL wins) Noack Volatility: ASL=5.1, 0w30=8.6 (0w30 uses more oil overtime) P: ASL=1100ppm, 0w30=1200ppm (0w-30 wins by 0.083 %) ZN: ASL=1300ppm, 0w30=1500ppm (0w30 wins by 13.3&) Ca: ASL=3242ppm, 0w30-3104ppm (ASL wins by 4.2%) TBN: both are >11.0 (no winners) CCS: (winner 0w30 wins within 8.2%) Pour is –60 and pumping is –40 for both.(no winners) Four ball is smaller on the 5w30. (ASL wins) Flash Point: (winner is ASL). Again, looking at the KV there is a minimal delta and I mean small. KV @ 100: ASL is thicker at 100 C by 3.44% +(which is better) KV@40:ASL is thicker at 40C by 14.5%; but look at the pumping and CCS. Again, too small to worry about. Based on these numbers it is too small and if you are not testing the oil to see who really wins, you are trusting there papers; which I would not. The thinner oil might help and might not. Again, without testing here, you are guessing. It is not worth the extra money. Plus the 0w-30 does not pass the 505 spec and is not Energy Conserving II formula. #2 Synthetic CAN have negative long term effects; hence look at me with there ES300 sludge engine. I would have high TAN, low TBN, high OXD and NOX over some internal of miles (for me it would be around 17K miles approx). I personally can’t /would not make a global comment like that since it is incorrect. So if you think, stress think here, their 0w-30 is the best oil that is great. But based on the numbers it is overpriced for what you get. I would stress again, test your oil since you are not really seeing the picture here nor the data involved.

I have it on the wifes car. You can also view the complete TSB and how and what parts to fix , part repairs times, etc...For the $25 it is good I feel.

Sorry about that. I still do not know what you are gaining by the extra $12 based on the numbers....

That is great you are a dealer but I think people here and myself need more then that. Plus I do not take what dealers say “to the bank” & you do not sell product that way. I have used the stuff for 12 years and I personally think it is the best product for the money. I was a dealer at one time but stopped for 2 reasons. #1 I get it at commercial pricing from family members so why pay a stupid few for the same thing. and #2 I get tired of Amsoil papers, flyers etc that only tell half the story.

I agree the 0w-30 might be better at start up but I would need to run and tests to see the delta in numbers. So far the ASL is working just fine here. So far the numbers do not show that much or anything to be better at startup for the 0w-30. The only thing I would say is test your oil here or at least I would. I am not saying you are wrong but you do not have any idea or clue on where or how the oil is performing here. Could be great or poor and you never will know. There ASL is pretty darn close (and cheaper) then there 0w-30 VI: ASL= 178, 0w30=194 HTHS: ASL=>3.5, 0w30=3.4 Noack Volatility: ASL=5.1, 0w30=8.6 P: ASL=1100ppm, 0w30=1200ppm ZN: ASL=1300ppm, 0w30=1500ppm Ca: ASL=3242ppm, 0w30-3104ppm TBN: both are >11.0 CCS: is within 8.2% to eachother Pour is –60 and pumping is –40 for both. Four ball is smaller on the 5w30. If you compare the KV @ 40 or 100F, it is a slight delta here. No "0w30 shines is in its protection at morning start-up" since the numbers do not say that; nor does the CCS. For the extra $2.XX at dealer cost for the 0w-30, I do not think you are gaining anything here. But ha, I only have 5w-30 oil tests.. Also I have no clue on how you get $12 for an oil change since the 0w-30 is almost $7 per qt at dealer price??????

I somewhat agree here. But even without doing any oil testing [used] etc it not to hard to narrow down the selection if not selecting one. Example, if you have oils that are low in ZDDP, low in VI, low HTHS, low in Ca, low in TBN; 1,000 to 1 these oils will perform LESS then oils with the opposite values. You can throw out the group 1 through 3 here before even starting unless you have a need for them. I am not an Amsoil “fan” here; but, show me better oil that is equal in price and gives me the same (if not better) durability, longevity, protection & time savings and boy, will I switch ASAP. Again I pay $45 for an oil change, and I should note that ALSO includes the oil tests. :D :) :whistles: I disagree on the intervals since there is no proof that any customer needs to adhere to it. I have stated on the topic since I started here and not going to comment on it. I have seen oil tests on the same year as my Lexus with only 5K miles (over 58.3% less then mine) and the oils tests where horrible. My answer to anyone would be select the two oils you narrowed it down to and then run both and see what works in your application. Run the same interval for both, etc etc. Then and only then will the truth be known to you. For me, looking at the un-used oil tests, you can select the two pretty easily. I am going for another oil tests this fall. Hopeing to get the same miles as my last drain (12K+ miles).

Well I am a little late in the game here, but Amsoil 0-30 has a very good base stock oil and add pkg here. Not picking sides here but post the facts here. Amsoil nor Moibl needs to do anything here. The people(users) already know what is better. The problem is $$$ for most or the lack of understanding. Show me an oil tests (dino) that is better then a synthetic? Not, gonna happne. And when I say syntheitc I mean a group 4 or 5 and not a group 3 hydro cracked either. Your friend can only go that long with oil tests every normal oil change internal or he has a bypass filter. As far added protection and longevity, yes you will get more; as to how much is intergal to your engine characterics. It is simple if you just do some homework and test the oil. If you do not testing, ANYONE is guessing here. Then their beliefs are flying around like mad..... :D For me using their ASL was a no brainer. $45 a year for great oils tests…hmm Even if the wear numbers with the same (which they are not) with my 12K drains, the price savings and time savings are worth the $$$$$. As per the numbers you would not have ANY problems starting an engine at –35 to –45 below F. This is the pumping temp of this oil. This oil also uses Lubrizol new additive package amd it looks like a good oil and with un-real high VI of over 190 and passes a lot of ACEA’s specs. Is it better yup, would I use it not since there cheaper ASL works just fine for me.

Any idea which O2ID goes to what location? Example, O2S11 in the font, back or by the cat..

The dual bypass is great for engine oil. You can go a LONGGGG time. The problem I see, are then the bypass filters are like over 50% of a complete oil change.

I was at one time going to do a bypass filter for the engine oil. Did a trade study and not worth it. The initial cost and filters kill it. The ATF filter might be but I do not know without doing a study. The Amsoil Atf cost around $6 per qt and lasts 30 to 40K miles(for me). So that is $25 for 2 years of driving. I do not know what I would benefit form a filter. Less Cu, Fe, Pb, Al?? It will be interesting to see the Oxidation, TAN etc? If it is high or not. ← Keep me posted on the ATF test results. I'm curious as to your findings. B) How do you find your tranny shifts with the Amsoil ATF compared with the Toyota type IV? Mine is just fantastic & ever so slightly smoother & that was just a 'drain & fill' ;) ← The shifts are well, you do not even notice them. No jerking etc. This is one my #2 and #3 drain will be at 100K miles.

added info above

**EDIT: mileage in city: 23.273 to 24.875 (via my tacking from past 3+ years. Highway is 27 to 29.XXX mpg. 1 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.650 O2S12: 0.555 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –4.7 ST FTRM1(%) –7.8 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.9 ST FTRM2(%) –0.8 ST FTRM11 (%): -3.9 ST FTRM 21 (%): –4.7 2 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.430 O2S21: 0.660 LT FTRM1 %) –2.3 ST FTRM1(%) –5.5 LT FTRM2 (%) –2.3 ST FTRM2(%) –5.5 ST FTRM11 (%): -6.3 ST FTRM 21 (%) –5.5 3 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.265 O2S21: 0.655 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -5.5 ST FTRM 21 (%): -5.5 4 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.205 O2S21: 0.660 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -6.3 ST FTRM 21 (%): -4. 5 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.660 O2S12: 0.160 O2S21: 0.655 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -3.9 ST FTRM 21 (%):-4.7 6 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.160 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -3.9 ST FTRM 21 (%): -4.7 7 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.150 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -3.1 ST FTRM 21 (%):-4.7 8 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.160 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -2.3 ST FTRM 21 (%): -3.1 9 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.160 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -2.3 ST FTRM 21 (%): -3.1 10 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.155 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -2.3 ST FTRM (%) 21: -3.9 11 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.175 O2S21: 0.655 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -3.9 ST FTRM 21 (%): -3.96 12 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.190 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -2.3 ST FTRM 21 (%): -3.9 13 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.650 O2S12: 0.230 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -2.3 ST FTRM 21 (%) : -3.9 14 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.640 O2S12: 0.325 O2S21: 0.660 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -4.7 ST FTRM 21 (%): -3.9 15 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.355 O2S21: 0.645 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -1.6 ST FTRM 21 (%): -3.1 16 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.650 O2S12: 0.535 O2S21: 0.650 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -3.1 ST FTRM 21 (%) : -4.7 17 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.675 O2S21: 0.655 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -3.1 ST FTRM 21 (%): -4.7 18 VEH SPEED (MPH): 42 O2S11(V): 0.655 O2S12: 0.685 O2S21: 0.655 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 ST FTRM11 (%): -1.6 ST FTRM 21 (%):-3.9

I was at one time going to do a bypass filter for the engine oil. Did a trade study and not worth it. The initial cost and filters kill it. The ATF filter might be but I do not know without doing a study. The Amsoil Atf cost around $6 per qt and lasts 30 to 40K miles(for me). So that is $25 for 2 years of driving. I do not know what I would benefit form a filter. Less Cu, Fe, Pb, Al?? It will be interesting to see the Oxidation, TAN etc? If it is high or not.

Lexusfreak The ATF fluid is Amsoil’s that will be tested. My most current oil test (with 12K+ miles) showed that 5w30 (Amsoil) thicken to 13.57 cSt (very little); normal for this enigne and oil. While there 5w40 is a 40w but there cST is about 14.5; so a 7.3% delta. Both are in 40 grade viscosities here. Plus the 5w40 is more shear stable. It is a yes/no answer. If I have worn piston rings and cylinder walls and the thicker oil is giving you a better ring seal and higher compression....If not, more drag LESS Mpg. The euro oils are made for high temp, high HTHS and longer drains (the norm over there). Which I think this oils is better for these sludge engines. MPG changes is due to many factors. The reason that viscosity of fluids may play a role in the MPG’s. The amount of this change is argued constantly anywhere - I think there might be a slight effect on MPG when using a thicker oil. For the average Joe just try keeping the these things “flat lined”/ constant (driving conditions, weather, tires, fuel, etc) over enough time to detect the difference in oil viscosity can be done, but it is very difficult. It is a toss up with MPG and the slight delta in weights here. Also both A3, B2/3 oils etc etc. Still debating here I know people think I am nuts for a 20w50 in my bike and I get 40 city and over 50 highway more MPG. Going to try there 10w40 and see what happens. Maybe more MPG and better shifting. Maybe higher temps? No clue yet.

The kicker was back in the 1970's amsoil and mobil had the drain wars. They were 25K miles or 1-year and that was in the 70's! Then Mobil stopped. Then started back this year...Go figure. As Toysrme & Lexusfreak stated, all the group 4 and 5 synthetics can go over 10+K miles. In most engines that is not even pushing the oil add pkg. I will be testing yet again in 1 month on the my ES. See if my last numbers were on the money, etc. Last drain was darn good for over 12K miles. This drain might be only 10 or 11. Not driving that much since the gsxr gets ridden more now. I will be testing the ATF also just for ha ha's. For me, the less wear, less messy oil changes and being proactive (not re-active)on down time is worth the $45 a year for an oil change. That is less then my Chopin Vodka (1.75 L) or not even 1 blade on my r/c heli....not breaking the bank here. I was thinking about swtiching to Amsoil new AFL (5w-40 European Motor Oil) since there ZDDP and Ca are VERY high. Low NOAK and >4.0 HTHS and a TBN of 12.2! Plus it passes Volkswagen spec and the MB229.3 spec. For $0.20 more per qt, I will take it.

I figured I would share this for any of the guru's out there. Most I get so I will need to pull the book for some of the odd ball things. Do not ge the, for example, LT FTRM x (long term fuel trim). Car sitting for 3 days, in garage, since I take my bike to work. Outside Variables: -Outside temp 78 F -8-18-2005 -Car data via Snap-on Microscan Scanner Took 39 “snap shots” - I did not post all 35 here....to long...so this is a snap shot of data...neat I think. (1 out of 35) (just started) MIL STATUS: OFF ABSLT TPS (%) 13.3 ENGINE (RPM) 1517 CALC LOAD (%) 25.1 MAF (LB/M): 1.49 COOLANT (F): 86 IAT (F) 79 IGN ADV (DEG) 10.5 LT FTRM1(%) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –5.5 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.9 ST FTRM2(%) –5.5 VEH SPEED (MPH) 0 FUEL SYS 1: CLSD FUEL SYS 2: CLSD O2S11(V): 0.655 STFTRM11 (%) –5.5 O2S12: 0.080 O2S21: -.655 STFTRM21(%) –7.0 (11 out of 35) (pulled out of driveway and starting to move) MIL STATUS: OFF ABSLT TPS (%) 16.1 ENGINE (RPM) 1343 CALC LOAD (%) 40.4 MAF (LB/M) 2.17 COOLANT (F): 109 IAT (F): 81 IGN ADV (DEG) 20.0 LT FTRM1 %) –5.5 ST FTRM1(%) –4.7 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.1 ST FTRM2(%) –6.3 VEH SPEED (MPH): 6 FUEL SYS 1: CLSD FUEL SYS 2: CLSD O2S11(V): 0.665 STFTRM11 (%) –3.9 (21 out of 35) (driving down road about 1/5 mile) MIL STATUS: OFF ABSLT TPS (%) 18.0 ENGINE (RPM) 2124 CALC LOAD (%) 31.4 MAF (LB/M) 2.61 COOLANT (F): 124 IAT (F): 81 IGN ADV (DEG) 31.5 LT FTRM1 %) –3.1 ST FTRM1(%) –2.3 LT FTRM2 (%) –3.9 ST FTRM2(%) –9.4 VEH SPEED (MPH): 37 FUEL SYS 1: CLSD FUEL SYS 2: CLSD O2S11(V): 0.600 STFTRM11 (%) –20.3 O2S12: 0.865 O2S21: 0.685 STFTRM21(%) –14.8 **Any comments throw them out. I did it since of the other thread that Toysrme commented on (thanks). He got me thinking about my o2 sensors. So this was the outcome. Overboard as :D :D

Since O2 sensors where brought up. What is the min and max voltage on the sensors? I only ask since my scanner tells me the volts of them. If they are getting old I should see less volts or no movement on my meter/scanner. If they are fine, not going to replace sensors that are fine. So far, I am around 0.493 volts at idle and moving +/-…. Hit the gas, they change (which they should). I agree clean the EGR and others and clean. Maybe it is dirty (you would know it) and maybe fine. I clean mined and noticed nothing but I am sure it helped. I personally changed my diff fluid everytime I do the ATF fluid (30 to 40K miles running Amsoil ATF). Fluid is as clean (and smells the same) as the day it goes in. Going to test this fall with the engine oil. Unless you are running a cheaper dino atf, I see no advantage to draining so soon <15K miles.

http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/lexus.htm There is mine. Installed about 3.5 years ago without issues. Ballast as Phillips and bulbs are Philips Ultinon 6000k. Going to either buy a set for my bike or my tactor :) ← Ultinons, those are d2s right how much glare compared to a d2r bulb? ← Again, not problems since being installed. No flashing, no law people, no nothing. Works great and I will ever go back…EVER! J As far comparing to others…no clue since I only have the one set.

1) Amsoil oils (not XL) can go a lot longer then 7,500 or 6 months. 2) Most times the thinner oils in today’s cars is because of EPA reasons and not design. 3) Synthetics (group 4 and 5) can go longer, perform better, extra protection the dino oils. It is a fact and looking at the numbers will tell you that. I am not poking fun of anyone but some here like the synthwtic and others do not. They will fight tooth and nail rather then say it is better. Unless it comes with a Lexus or Toyota stamp they do not like it. Once (not if) Lexus go to synthetic watch how fast they change. J If you are doing these short drains (below 7,500 miles) I do not know what you will benefit from using a real synthetic. You could use a blend (group 3) and get the same results (I would think). But on the flip side blends are almost the same price as the real stuff. .

I agree a timing belt is like what $40 (oem).....

http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/lexus.htm There is mine. Installed about 3.5 years ago without issues. Ballast as Phillips and bulbs are Philips Ultinon 6000k. Going to either buy a set for my bike or my tactor :)

The ES and most other cars do not need Iridium plugs. It comes down to what you want to buy and performace. Maybe in your app any plug is fine and maybe not. Example, I can buy cheap tires for my es, cheap plugs, cheap wires, cheap belts etc. I can do the same for my GSXR1100. I tried cheap on my bike and well it never worked out and ran like crap. I tried cheap on my wifes car, and that did not work out and spent more in the long run. Not doing it again with my car now. I am sticking with what works for me. $66 is for 6 plugs, even at $12 each (6x12=72) is not a huge delta. You could put in other plugs for $3. Then it would be around $18 to $20. Maybe these are fine and maybe not. I do not know. For me, in drivign 120,000 miles (about 10 to 11 years total on my car) it would cost me about $125 in plugs over this time or these years. I like saving $$$$ here, trust me, but fuel for one month cost more then that. I worry more about my mortgage, G&E, car and tractor payments, daycare, etc..not spark plugs.IN the big picture for me, plugs and the price are so small.....

ok, just trying to save you some $$$$.

WOWis that overpriced!!! .. I just bought 5 of them (Maxell lithium ) for $4.99 (shipped) to my door... More $$$ saved for some Corona.And this price is the norm online and you get them with 3 to 4 days. I was going to throw the other 4 in the trash..