mburnickas

I have personally used Amsoil for several (many) years. Do a search on it since I have posted many times on it. I am not a dealer also but know many. Here is what I posted on it last since I do not want to re-invent the wheel. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...20737&hl=amsoil

What defines expensive? Compared to what? I send $45 a year on oil and (1) oil test. I spend $24 for ATF fluid every 2 years.

Yup, they have been making these claims and many business and oil companies are following there lead! Hate to tell you they benchmarked this field. There (Amsoil) claims WORK since they are tested per ASTM and SAE testing. Also I can’t claim on Royal Purple since they have dino oils two. Monach take a look at BITOG site and they know more info that you can grasp, download in your PC and a lifetime. Go post over there and they will set you correct. These people will amaze you with there understanding, know how and real life testing longer then I have been alive!. Nevermind there are chemists and real life lube engineers there. PS. Since you are like age discrimination here there age are from 18 to over 60 here. Also to me this slamming of Amsoil is a joke since you never have any data to support your claims. Many people dislike these oils for 2 reasons and 2 only: 1) to much money for them or; 2) they do not understand it. At least I have an understanding of their product (or oil and there additives in general) and have been testing it for years; alng with reading ASTM and SAE spec. No little pretty pictures here, just data. I will support my claims via my testing.

I hate flying on them since I design the parts! scary! :D

Saber/Monarch is back under another name...I wonder if there is a rule on logon names? 1) So they did not have variable valve timing back in 1999 here? Next you state, “chains don't break” then on the next line, “very rarely”. So which is it? 2) Define rarely? If it not a big deal until you hare one of the rarely too. Just like 2 hurrancs in the same area is rarely but do happen. If many designed it, it will break. It will take time, but it will break. Any engineer will tell you that.

When a belt breaks, the loose parts from the belt break less or damage less. When a chain breaks, look out. A chain will do more damage then a belt.

All the above ways are good to know if you do not want to spend the money and test (spectro analysis ) the fluid. But on the flip side you could have fluid that is brown and still be 100% expectable (within limits) and clear fluid that is not. A better “guess” would be to smell the fluid (a crude but effective indicator of oxidation in ATF) and then do a simple “card and fluid or blotter” test. Smelling is to see if fluid had heat (thermal) failure; which leads to high OXD & Nitration. The card test is a simple (non scientific) test to see if how bad the fluid is. Look at the rings the fluid leaves. Again it is a guess without testing, but much better then just looking at it. I would also be more concerned with smell then color. Also all these simple tests do not tell you the TAN number, the viscosity or any high wear numbers like Copper, Iron, lead etc.

out of shape? Are you kidding me..This is laughable at best. Now the All OEM is getting older, big time. So are the picture of dashboards from saber, opps monarch and the pictures of a brake rotor too. It is easy not to except new technology since it requires no thinking. Not even bringing oil into it, there is a reason why some oil are higher priced them others. Make sure you use OEM Power Steering fluids, OEM air, OEM tires, OEM cable straps, OEM fluids, OEM, window cleaner, OEM care care kit, OEM, healights, OEM tools, OEM gas (do they make that???), OEM water for rad..... He pushes OEM more then the Lexus dealers! But the picture as proof is great. What does it prove; again ZERO. If people did some homework they can learn some information; more then posting a picture and saying this and that. Now post a picture with some proof (that is data that supports your claim), then you might have something. Again, add information or data to support your thread. I can get a 2 year old to post a picture and say anything. Are you sure??? Based on the data I found, there are more gear and belts them chains.

photographic proof??? Are you kidding me :chairshot::chairshot: It is a photo, no more, no less. It is a pictutre showing nothing; a truck with a guy by it. What does it show? Proof of what? that it is an old picture. I love the proof.. It is amusing at best. Proof...:chairshot: I can show a picture of my lawn and say it went 10 million mowings on one sharpening of the blades...Ya sure...proof, I think not. YOu are a classic with this old-school photos though. You need data not just a picture. I picture is worth ZERO without any info (data) to support it. I can show you my car and say it ran on corn oil too. All I need is a picture by your standards.....You are a classic, I need to print this topic out, too funny.

Here we go again...old pictures that do not mean anything....How many times does it take Saber/Monarch/ whatever else you are called??? Have you ever spent a few dollars to test the oil??? I think not, since you are so stuck on dino.....

Well then, so now you throw a timing chain into the mix and you want to use Toyota OEM (Mobil dino oil)???? Yet another reason to not use a dino oil. It will shear quicker along with other things. I would love to see a an oil test when a timing chain wears. Nice loads of Fe, Pb, AL, Cu etc.

Well, I think we know where his post is going...Not this again!!!!

Something I posted on another foums since I had this debate. Belts have their advantages. They're cheaper, quieter, lighter, require no lubrication and easier to replace. They're also better able to handle the longer run necessary for overhead- cam engines. With overhead-cam engines, it has to be 3 or 4 feet long, and for that kind of length, a belt is not only a lot quieter, but more reliable, too. When you use a chain for that kind of length, it's more likely to loosen up, slap around and eventually break. For me I would take a belt over a chain or gear anyday. A belt is cheaper then the damage caused by a belt or chain. For longevity chains are better but do you want to here it etc? Here is a list of there stuff. Model Year Engine Belt/Chain/Gear 4Runner 1990-2000 4 Cylinder Chain 1990-2002 V6 Belt 2003 V6 Chain 2003 V8 Belt Avalon 1995-2003 V6 Belt Camry 1990-2001 All Belt 2002-2003 4 Cylinder Chain 2002-2003 V6 Belt Celica 1990-1999 4 Cylinder Belt 2000-2003 4 Cylinder Chain Corolla 1990-1997 4 Cylinder Belt 1998-2003 4 Cylinder Chain Cressida 1990-1992 L6 Belt Echo 2000-2003 4 Cylinder Chain Highlander 2001-2003 4 Cylinder Chain 2001-2003 V6 Belt Land Cruiser 1990-1992 L6 Gear 1993-1997 L6 Chain 1998-2003 V8 Belt MR2 1990-1995 4 Cylinder Belt MR2 Spyder 2000-2003 4 Cylinder Chain Matrix 2003 4 Cylinder Chain Paseo 1992-1997 4 Cylinder Belt Prius 2001-2003 4 Cylinder Chain RAV4 1996-2000 4 Cylinder Belt 2001-2003 4 Cylinder Chain Sequoia 2001-2003 V8 Belt Sienna 1998-2004 V6 Belt Solara 1999-2001 4 Cylinder Belt 2002-2003 4 Cylinder Chain 1999-2003 V6 Belt Supra 1990-1998 L6 Belt T100 1993-1998 4 Cylinder Chain 1993-1998 V6 Belt Tacoma 1995-2003 4 Cylinder Chain 1995-2003 V6 Belt Tercel 1990-1998 4 Cylinder Belt Truck 1990-1995 4 Cylinder Chain 1990-1995 V6 Belt Tundra 2000-2003 V6 Belt 2000-2003 V8 Belt

I agree. Plus a belt breaks less if it breaks.

I know some of the ES years have wind noise. Can't stop it. When I changed mine I did not need any new rubber. If want some used ones I will sell you my 2 for $5 plus shipping.

I must ask too. From what I know, you pull the ECU fuse when you do make emission changes like new o2 sensors, MAF etc. Since they need to "see" the new items. If you do nothing and think it will help, it most times will not. THe car goes back to its original logic and then learns your driving (somewhat). Hence, you can pull fuses till you wear out the leads and till will get the same XX mpg.

You mean these (pillar moldings)? http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=22781&hl= I just installed new ones last week. The weatherstrip should be very easy to install.

If someone really wants the car they will flatbed it. Also if they try to start it and it does not, most times the theif will trash the car. For me, take the car and make sure you do not bring it back....

Oh god, not the dreaded factory coolant. Please make it stop!

I agree with you here on the 02 sensors. No need to replace if not bad.

Good find! But installing the parts correctly is the hard part. Anyone can "hit the buy it now"... :D :D :D :D :D Joking here. I have spent over $200 in the last 2 days...

Brokern record here! :D "You can't handle the truth!" :)

Here we go again. 1) Do not care 2) Lets see, I work at work for 3.2 hours and it covers the delta in price (surfing this site). 3) Again it was the cheapest this part of the state 4) Do not care Are you seeing a trend here????? Again I have better things to worry about instead of $96 The prices I stated are all separate. It did not matter if you get one thing or all. You can fight the system all you want. All this to save $96..LOL. I live here and know the prices are. As I stated before “We can fight all day on this but I have researched this topic; and in my area this was the cheapest around. Unless I want to drove 4 billion miles.” Ps. There Toyota dealer is the same price. I tried all the Lexus dealers and Toyota dealers in a 100 miles RADIUS!

Wait a minute.... I agree it is a simple job to do a water pump after you remove the TB. I am not being rude here but we are talking about $199 for a water pump right? It would cost me $100 for OEM here (online) and about $4 for a gasket (online). So $104 for parts alone. Yup, it is costing me an enormous price of $96 to put it on. Wow, $96. Is it a lot?, hmmmmm. I DO NOT WANT TO DO IT nor care to. I can go to work and not deal with that or the belts etc. It comes down to my time is worth more then worrying about $96. What is $96 in the great scheme of things? Plus it is 8 years old. It should last another 8 years now. By then I will not own the car in 8 years. If is much easier to go to work for a few hours and not worry about a whopping $96 price tag…… As I have stated before, I have better things to worry about then approx $96. Based on the prices I posted, that is the cheapest around here by a lot! Prices vary by state, region etc. We can fight all day on this but I have researched this topic; and in my area this was the cheapest around. Unless I want to drove 4 billion miles.

Can't say that (under $500....) since prices VARY by region as I posted above.