Jeff in TX

"doorman" is giving some very good advice here. Desensitization issues are frequently related to Radio Frequency Interference from malfunctioning electrical equipment. In addition to the possible sources that he cited you should consider: malfunctioning fluorescent lights (avoid using the CFL bulbs in your opener), malfunctioning sodium vapor security lights, arcing high voltage power lines, nearby radio and radar transmitters, nearby cell towers nearby military transmitters. The frequency that the garage door openers use is not regulated. To better understand the regulation issue look at this link: http://www.tdsupplies.com/articles/395_MHz_Military_Radio_Remote_Interference.html No offense intended, but I think your source is not well informed on this subject. On all the cars that I am familiar with, the remote garage door opener works whether the ACC or IGN power is on or not. All the cars that I have owned that had this feature built into the car worked this way. There are two ways to secure your garage door opener: lock your car or disable the remote operation on the garage door opener local control panel (that is the reason for the "LOCK" feature on your local control panel).

I had this problem before the Valve Spring Recall and I still have it. You should enter a complaint at the NHTSA http://www.SaferCar.gov site regarding your safety concerns.

Rick, I know of a couple of other discussion regarding this issue and they may give you some additional insight. Check here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls460-ls460l-and-ls600h/642496-ls-460-acceleration-problems.html And here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls460-ls460l-and-ls600h/587900-acceleration-problems-after-dealer-oil-change.html

I think you can demonstrate to yourself that the door-jamb switch is causing the spontaneous alarm that your were experiencing. One way to do that would be to observe the courtesy light on the door to see if it comes on each time you open the door. Try running a test by opening the door 50 times and each time the door is opened observe that the courtesy light illuminates. If the courtesy light fails to illuminate then tap the door-jamb switch with your finger to see if the light will come on. After some more research I have concluded that the cause of this is not the switch itself, so don't change the switch. Changing the switch would likely fix the problem but would be an unnecessary expense.

Sorry if I added any confusion. I'm still confused.

I think you are probably correct. On the phone, try under "Mail, Contacts, Calendars" then under Contacts, select Sort Order = Last, First and Display Order = Last, First. I think the Display Order is the only one that is important. You would need to delete the contacts for this phone from your car and then reload them.

Seems to me like this is an issue with how the contacts are displayed in the phone and not an issue with the car. I think the car just sorts alphabetically beginning with the first character in each line entry. So, try going to your "Contacts" application in your computer and under "contacts preferences" and set it to sort by last name and show first name following last name. Then re-sync your phone to your computer and then reload your contacts from your phone to your car. I don't have a 2012 LS460 or an Iphone5 to try this so if this doesn't help don't spend too much time with this as I am not sure. Most cars lock out the dialing while the car is in motion but do allow speed dial and that works nicely. Perhaps you were using speed-dial.

I just went out to check to see if the stuck switch would stop the door closer from working and I found that it would still work fine even when the switch is stuck closed.

After some more thought, I think the "lazy closer" syndrome may be a direct indication of a defective door sensor switch and that problem may be cured when you replace the switch. It may be that the door closer feature will not work for a door that thinks it is closed.

I've been thinking about your post for several days. I think you have a dual problem. The intermittent "lazy door closers" seem to not be exceedingly rare. I've had that problem with mine occasionally but not recently and it is always the rear door. When I try to duplicate it I can't and I still think it might be related to logic but since the lock operation always catches it I am not too troubled by it. What is probably happening with your car is the "lazy closer" syndrome combined with a defective door sensor switch. Many of the cars have experienced problems with the door sensor switches that manifested in a dead battery. This was not well understood until recently when someone posted some good videos. A good explanation can be found in the discussion here: http://www.clublexus...t-wont-set.html In your case I think what is happening is your door is not closed when you lock your car but it is not detected because the door sensor switch is stuck. Some time later the stuck switch becomes un-stuck, triggering the alarm. You should replace all four of the door sensor switches. You may be able to live with the lazy closer. Having a stuck door sensor switch on a rear door will not cause the headlight related battery discharge as long as the doors can be locked with the button on the door handle or with the remote wireless key.

Injudicious operation of the cruise control might produce the conditions you are concerned about but cruise controls have always functioned that way so, since your car seems different from your experience with your previous cars, perhaps something is wrong with your car. Most owner manuals are not very clear about how to operate the cruise control. Just in case you don’t have a good understanding about the subtleties of the cruise control operation this might be a good time to review how it works. The cruise control is operated from a stem on the side of the steering column. The stem has a button on the end that toggles between cruise control on and cruise control off. An indicator in the instrument cluster is illuminated “Cruise” when the cruise control is on and extinguished when the cruise control is off. Pressing down, toward the floor, on the cruise control stem has two functions. If the cruise control is On and a “set point” has not been entered into the cruise control memory, pressing down on the stem will enter the current speed, as long as it is greater than 25 MPH, into the memory as the “set point.” If the set point has already been entered, and the cruise control in engaged, then pressing down on the stem will lower the set point. Raising up on the stem will have no effect if there is no set point in the cruise control memory. If there is a set point in the memory and the cruise control is engaged and you raise the stem the cruise control will raise the set point in memory. If there is a set point in the memory and the cruise control is disengaged then when you raise the stem the cruise control will “resume” using the set point from memory. If the set point is significantly above the current speed when you resume you can expect some pretty aggressive acceleration and, in the case of 5 speed transmissions that have coasted down, some significant down shifting. The cruise control is “disengaged” when the stem is pulled toward the driver or the brake is depressed. The set point is deleted from memory when the cruise control is turned off by depressing the button on the end of the stem or when the speed drops below 25 MPH. Many cars disable the cruise control when the windshield wipers are engaged and I expect the LS460 does that too. An example of unwise operation would be when you are using your cruise control to maintain your speed at 75 MPH and you touch the brake to slowdown, disengaging the speed control, and allow the car to coast down to 30 MPH and then lifting up on the control stem. Remember now, the set point is at 75 MPH, and the cruise control is only disengaged and when you lift the stem it will be a “resume” command. That is like stepping on the accelerator pretty hard to take your car from 30 MPH to 75 MPH. The smart transmissions are designed to coast down, I think in neutral, as a fuel conservation feature so it will certainly down shift when it gets the demand to increase speed. The wise way to manage this condition, if you want to use the resume, is to use the accelerator to restore the current speed to near the set point speed before you lift the stem to resume. In other words, use the accelerator to get the speed in the 70-80 MPH range before you give it the resume command. When you do that the speed will settle on the set point. If you want to start over, without dropping below 25 MPH, then just turn the cruise control off and then back on using the button on the end of the stem. The DLCCs and DRCCs have some additional subtitles that you have to consider.

Check these threads for a better explanation about the defective door switch: http://www.clublexus...t-wont-set.html http://www.clublexus...urning-off.html I am unable to locate the instructions for replacement tonight. I will look some more tomorrow. It is an easy DIY and probably not expensive at any Toyota dealer. You probably should replace the switches on all four doors.

Are you referring to a regular old Cruise Control? Or a Dynamic Radar Cruise Control? Or a Dynamic Laser Cruise Control? Or something else?

Venny - Your multiple battery replacements are likely related to a defective driver's door sensor switch - the switch that senses when the door is opened and closed. There have been many reports of these switches being intermittent, especially not sensing when the door is opened. If the ignition is off and the headlights are on when this occurs, a normal sequence when you are parking and exiting your car at night, then the headlights will not extinguish automatically, resulting in a deep discharge of the battery. And, this condition presents a serious safety concern as it defeats the warning feature that alerts you when you are leaving the car with the ignition running. Replacement of the door sensor switch is not expensive. If you need additional information about the door switch issue I can help you with that.

Perhaps I did not make my comment clear. Some new batteries are defective. Some new batteries are not adequately charged. Computer reset occurs when a "good" battery is disconnected for a few minutes and then connected and the ignition is turned on (you can turn the ignition on without starting the car by not depressing the brake).

Your symptoms may be indicative of a defective battery or a battery that is not adequately charged. You should remove the battery from the car and take it to a battery dealer to be tested and charged.

There have been many reports of this oil-change-correlated phenomenon in other forums. I have my theory as to what causes this. My car exhibits this strange performance issue for a few hundred miles after each oil changes and then, without anything being done, returns to perfect. I have a 2007 LS460 that was purchased new. I have seen some indications that Lexus is aware of this but nothing to indicate that they have an understanding or fix. Please let us know how this plays out for you.

Had your oil changed recently?

Several owners have reported having their amps repaired by United Radio, seems like the cost was about $400. Here is a link to their site and contact information: http://unitedradio.com/automotive/

A very large number of the 07 LS460s were affected by the triangle trim defect. The odds are very high that your car will benefit from the DIY trim repair. The DIY repair is about as difficult as making a peanut butter sandwich. I recently coached a disabled veteran, via email, on doing the DIY repair. He was able to do it, and reported it was easy, even though he only has one hand. His dealer would not help him with the wind noise problem - said it was normal. He was delighted with the results of his repair. I realize that there are some who will not be able to do this as a DIY and for them I suggest that they go to a collision repair business with the instructions in hand. Please check the PM feature on this site for a message.

William, I’m with you. I think the satellite antenna having anything to do with the mysterious vibration is pretty remote. However, that idea came from Lexus – see the cited TSB. Generally, engineering organizations are very structured and something like that TSB would have almost certainly been based on some test data. It calls for rather radical “surgery” on the affected cars and the potential is high that something like that would not go well. So, I don’t think they would issue such a corrective action unless the management had been convinced of its validity and they would not have been convinced without test data. Although the speed cited in the TSB is 55-65 MPH there is no indication of the test conditions. Was that sensitivity speed range determined on a dynamometer or a wind tunnel? Was the vibration a resonance effect or an aerodynamic effect? I suspect that the test was done on a test track, at some nominal temperature range, when the wind was calm. That is the usual way those sorts of test are done because of the expense of other types of testing. If the vibration was due to a resonance effect then the wind conditions are not too important. However if the vibration was due to some aerodynamic phenomena you have to keep in mind that driving a car directly into a 40 MPH headwind at 20 MPH is nearly equivalent to driving a car at 60 MPH on a calm day. And, if there is some sort of aerodynamic thing going on it may be extremely sensitive to different wind vectors. I would certainly be surprised if the antenna was a part of this problem, but the possibilities, or at least those that can be addressed, seem to be running out.

Because of my special interest in the "Wind Noise" issue I have followed this forum and several others closely for the past several years. The "odd vibration" issue has come up many times. When you look at the reports of successful resolution, or lack of resolution, you will see that generally this problem is not understood. There are reports of complete replacement of transmission/drive shaft, all tires/wheels and all manner of other things with the vibration continuing. You will see it described as "cyclic" and often not demonstrable on cue. There are reports of "buybacks" under state Lemon Laws. It is not a regular mystery - it is a mysterious mystery. Much like the wind noise, many of the dealerships and Lexus try to make it seem to be subjective. One of the posts that caught my interest regarded a part of a TSB that stiffened the satellite antenna-mounting to reduce vibrations related to resonance or wind oscillations. Most people refuse this because it involves removal of the headliner. I've never seen a report as to the effectiveness of this TSB. Here is a link to it in the Lambros data base: http://www.lambros.n...-SB-0147-08.pdf For those of you who might be desperate and willing to try almost anything, here is something that can be done with little effort or cost. Take a lump of modeling clay, about grapefruit size, and shape it into a ball and press it over the shark-fin antenna. It will probably stay in place for a test drive, but if it won't stay then secure it with some of the ubiquitous 2"-wide clear packaging tape. A variation on that would be to fill a zip-lock bag with sand - use several bags so as not to scratch your car - and secure it with packaging tape. The mass on the antenna will do two things: it will affect the resonance and it will alter the air flow, in case it is wind induced oscillation.

The key That I am refering to is the electronic key. Perhaps you call it a "clicker."

Sounds like you may be leaving your spare, or other, remote key in the car when you are trying to use the remote, or Fob, to lock it. Since it is a new car, new to you, maybe your have a spare that was left in the glove compartment or center console or perhaps the previous owner had a spare hidden in the car.

Sir, I think you are being misinformed about this. The battery in the remote key, the kind of system that allows you to open the doors by touch, should last about two years in normal service. There are lots of possible explanations for what you are experiencing however depletion of the battery by some external device is not among them.