Jeff in TX

I'm not sure what you mean by "Check the attitude at the door Jeff." If I have offended anyone, I apologize. I will not be causing a problem again.

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Does your's look like this?

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The human nose is able to detect odors in infinitesimal quantities. I think you need to give more thought as to the cause of the odor and less thought as to how it gets into your car. Check this link for some possible insight: http://www.lambros.net/LexusTechInfo/2007LS/L-EG001-03.pdf

The knob adjusts the volume of the audible feedback from wireless key operations such as locking the doors and trunk and the audible feedback from lock and unlock operations using the door handle and trunk buttons. Maximum volume would be fully counter clockwise and OFF would be clockwise into the detent - sort of counterintuitive.

If what seems to be happening is really happening, then you would need to take your electronic key to the dealership and have them put a new battery in, take it out to your car and demonstrate to them that it will operate your car. Leave it, the suspected defective electronic key, at the dealership for two days (an extra day for good measure) and then ask them to go out and demonstrate to you that it will operate your car. That should help move your case along one way or the other.

Thanks, I understand. Your electronic key is defective!!

There is a lot going on with these devices and to assume that the battery is bad when they don't work may not get you anywhere. The only way to determine that the battery is dead is to remove it and test it with a voltmeter. Do you have another electronic key that works? Are you just concerned about the touch-open feature or is it that you are unable to start the car except with the emergency procedure? The technology that is employed to enable this process employs Radio Frequency transmitters and receivers. I suspect that what is happening to you is that there is an interfering RF signal at the location where you start your day. An example of how this can occur and seem to be time-of-day dependent is a defective sodium vapor night light. Let's say that the defective light is generating broadband noise that interferes with the key operation and that the light is only on in the morning. That may make it seem that your key battery has been discharged overnight. There are many possibilities regarding Radio Frequency Interference sources such as defective cell site transmitters, defective motors, Radio Station transmitters, arcing power lines, defective fluorescent or sodium vapor lights, etc. Most of these interfering sources only propagate a short distance at levels that cause problems so you might evaluate this by seeing if your car works okay at a different location such as a friends garage.

Denny, I am trying to determine how you know the battery is "dead." Are you measuring it, the key battery, with a voltmeter?

So, how are you determining that the battery is bad?

Ask your dealer to show you three other cars on his lot that have this "Direct Fuel Injection Noise." To remove sujectivity from your discussion with the dealer, use a sound meter to quantify the peak noise from your car and the other three for comparison.

The plug deal is a red-hearing. I did that to mine, a 2007LS, with no noticeable change. Many others have reported the same results, no change. The only thing that has been effective over the past 7 years is the DIY trim repair and there have been many, many reports of success with that.

I don't think you will get good results with a repair in the manner you cited. Several owners have reported trying that approach without good results and then moving on to the two step process with outstanding results.

I don't think this is something that your dealer will help you with. The explanation is very long but the short version is it is a legal issue.

This is not something that can be downloaded. It is a thread in a web based forum, much like this forum, that can be viewed with most web browsers. I tried the link above and it works fine for me. If you have some genuine interest let me know and we will figure out some way to get you there.

Thank you 1990LS400. I am not referring to the TSIB that you attached.

Many of the 2007-2010s had a trim defect that caused the cabin noise to be higher than normal. Check here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls460-ls460l-and-ls600h/506217-instructions-for-the-jmcraney-wind-noise-fix.html

If "quietness" remains a problem you should look into the wind noise repair.

Try this link: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/

You should have the car's AC System refrigerant charge checked by a competent refrigeration technician.

Use the mechanical key that is stored in the electronic key. You insert the mechanical key into a slot that is on the underside of the front door handles and turn the mechanical key.

"doorman" is giving some very good advice here. Desensitization issues are frequently related to Radio Frequency Interference from malfunctioning electrical equipment. In addition to the possible sources that he cited you should consider: malfunctioning fluorescent lights (avoid using the CFL bulbs in your opener), malfunctioning sodium vapor security lights, arcing high voltage power lines, nearby radio and radar transmitters, nearby cell towers nearby military transmitters. The frequency that the garage door openers use is not regulated. To better understand the regulation issue look at this link: http://www.tdsupplies.com/articles/395_MHz_Military_Radio_Remote_Interference.html On all the cars that I am familiar with, the remote garage door opener works whether the ACC or IGN power is on or not. All the cars that I have owned that had this feature built into the car worked this way. There are two ways to secure your garage door opener: lock your car or disable the remote operation on the garage door opener local control panel (that is the reason for the "LOCK" feature on your local control panel). I’m aware of the “lock” feature, but that locks me out also if I use it. The garage door opener button in my daughter in law’s BMW only works if the ignition is On or in Acc position. I am aware that some of the European models work this way - I helped my neighbor sync his BMW to his garage door opener a few weeks ago. I have no idea why these two diverse operation modes were chosen. I don't know whether you are seeking a solution or just venting your frustration, but it is what it is. I understand the security risk that the unlocked car presents. If you are wanting suggestions on how to deal with this, you could disable the BMW by erasing it from your opener and replace that function with one of those remote keypads and screw it to the wall. Or you could place the remote keypad in the BMW and that would require a 4 digit code to operate. Or you could buy two keypads, one for the wall and one for the BMW.

Bill, We are indeed fortunate to have credentialed/degreed engineers like you helping us here, at no cost. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience with us. I am sorry you are experiencing problems with the remote operation of your garage door opener. I know that can be frustrating. Because of my limited formal education – I barely made it through high school – I have to count on observation to help me with problems like you are having. I have owned five Toyota vehicles and one Lexus vehicle and one Lincoln vehicle that were equipped with the three-button HomeLink system. They have worked flawlessly. I have seen my neighbors, over the past 20 years, in two different neighborhoods, use these devices with no apparent difficulty. I don’t recall any of my friends or fellow employees mentioning that they were having problems with their garage door openers. I don’t see many reports of problems in any of the Internet forums. And I don’t see many of those garage-door repair service trucks around – they are sort of like the Maytag Repairman. This seems to be mature, reliable technology that works very well for the masses. Your concern that your opener is operating on “harmonics” seems to me to be pretty unlikely. All of the remotes for the US market, since the beginning, have operated in the 300-400 MHz band and that would put the 2nd harmonic at 600-800 MHz and the 3rd harmonic in the 900-1200 MHz band. Here is a link that might be helpful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garage_door_opener All of the transmitters, both the handheld that come with the garage door openers and those built into cars, must be FCC compliant and that requirement specifically limits radiated harmonics. Because of product evolution and the need for legacy compatibility the opener-controls that are built into cars must support several different frequencies and formats. In addition these devices also support gate openers and codes like X-10. That device that is built into cars is able to satisfy this but must be tailored by the owner for specific situations. The devices that are built into cars are able to learn the frequency and format requirements for specific devices by being trained with the handheld remote that came with the device. The three buttons on the opener-controller in the car operate three independent transmitters and each button must be trained for the device it is intended to operate. The newer garage door openers, those manufactured in the last 15 years, use a rolling code format and contrary to popular belief, the car never knows the security code for the opener for these newer devices. It puts out a pseudo random code ever time it transmits (so, no concerns about holding security codes in the cars memory). I think you can be pretty confident that your car is okay when it operates the dealers test set okay. One common problem with this sort of arrangement is where to seek help. Each party to this is only responsible for their part. The garage door manufacturer is only responsible for his part and Lexus is only responsible for their part. It seems to me that the most likely cause of your problem is that the opener-controller in your car has not been properly trained as to the correct frequency of your opener. Most of the gate/garage openers that are built into US and European cars, including the Toyotas, are manufactured by the HomeLink division of Johnson Contols. HomeLink has a great Internet site for getting the operating instructions for your built in opener-controller and their technical support people are very helpful and gracious. You should give them a try. Here is a link to the HomeLink site: http://www.homelink.com