saman

new pic of egr system the old one was bad

if you look at this picture you could see why

cool man let us know, i would love to find out if the part is bad or not, ive herd some people saying that bank1 sensor 1 would also give an error if you are having a issue with a dirty egr valve or problem with the system

photo

here is bank one sensor one from the fsm

below is the pic by the firewall my mistake

by the firewall here is the image my mistake 1130 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1133 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) you can remove the bat for a few min or clear it with the obd reader like i said u may of got a bad part because the first o2 sensor checks the baseline and the second checks fo see if the cat is working properly

you prob replaced the wrog sensor bank one sensor one is on the front of then engine its the one next to your oil filter if that isnt the case try swapping the sensor from bank one sensor one with the bank 2 sensor 1 and see if you have the same issue. also what is your code sometimes the generic obd readers will give you the wrong code description you can also check your sensor with a ohm meater if you are fimilar with them terminals +b and ht, resistance = 11-16 ohms i forgot to mention that autozone parts are junk and ive got bad parts from them on more than one occasion

your struts arnt bad you need new sway bar end links. replace them on both sides at the same time as they work together. you can get them from auto zone for like 20 bux but i got a better updated part online that has ticker bushings and has a greese inlet for anual greesing. its a easy job, jack the car up on both sides remove both tires grab the back side of the end link bushing with neddle nose vise grips and unscrew the bolt with a 14mm, hammer out the old and install the new!

that dosnt work on lexus cars, that worked on some of the gm cars i owned but none of my imports had that ability. i cant believe how so many people viewed this posting and not one person knows anything about this for now i have no high beams unless i spend lots of time probing around for pins 16and17 from the under the hood from the multswitch if it even goes there at all

the haynes manual sucks like i said there is a 1997 manual floating around in this forum but that is the only year i can find but it should be ok for your year. anyways like i said all the bulbs look ok but there is one there that is bad or going bad. i had this issue and ended up changing dam near all the bulbs. i noticed on your posting you replaced the replaced the drivers door regulator, it looks like whoever owned my car before did the same job and now the window is making noise on the freeway leeking air. do you have the same issue?

it prob triggerd an error for one reason or another you need a special obd programer to check and clear abs codes. you can try going to auto zone and see what codes come up but most likely there obd reader wont work. like you said the senor could be bad or misalligned. try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and hit the brakes a few times and then reconnect and see what happens. also the pickup can read through metal

the fsm is avail for the 1997 i cant find the one for any other years.

well no reply yet, so what i have found so far is that pulling The first relay under the hood i believe its DRL 3 relay works! the only problem now is i have no highbeams, auto works, fogs work. now how i have to find out where the high beam wire from the multi function switch goes and trigger the pins on that relay connector. it shows in the fsm that pins 16-17 are for the high beams on the multi function switch, hopefully they neg trigger and run to the box under the hood otherwise i would have to run a wire from the switch to under the hood. somthing that im not going to do.

i had this same issue with my mercedes, all the bulbs where working also, it seems if the bulb is going bad it will give an error. basicaly what your going to have to do is pull out all the bubs in the back i mean all of them, then check to see if they are dark in any way if they are replace the bulb, when replacing the bulb put some of that electrcal grease on the contacts. also double check the bulb type for the socket that its going in. somtime people put the wrong wattage bulb in. im sure this will solve your problem.

im not sure what the big deal is but im trying to disable daytime running lights on my 2000 es300 The Fsm that i have is from a 1997 and it shows daytime running light number1,2,3,4 relay under the hood on the driver side by the battery and then a main drl relay located under the dash on drivers side by the ac control module, so im not sure what i have on my car or where to start. it is a us spec car i believe i want to disable drl without having to remove the highbeam function or disconnect any lights. i cant find anything on this just a buch of arguments on how DRL's are the law and saves on insurance ect ect.. its not the law in the us and i don't want to start a topic on the laws and the cost of insurance. im not happy with the drl function on this car and not being able do disable it on the auto function. If anyone knows what to do or where to look it would be greatly appreciated. i know on most cars its a matter of cutting a wire or cutting and grounding. please help! thanks

i noticed the 2005 and 2006 avalon camry and es300 has a dual piston caliper for the front brakes. i was wondering if anyone had the fsm or new of any information on how to get this caliper to work on a 2000 es300 " i would think the bracket would bolt on but that's just my guess, also the rotor size my be different i would love to have this setup with some good rotors and pads and i would bet it would be a noticeable difference. if anyone knows of any other dual piston fitments for this model let me know im going to the junk yards this weekend to take a look. thanks

i think im going to give it a shot in a few weeks honestly if i do it i want to do all in one shot. the tbelt water pump all the rollers, tensioner cam and crank seals new belts, and prob change the alternator do to my flickering light issue, on the flickering light issue all the lights flicker when the car is first started then will go away after a few min. I read to test the battery for 12v with the car off and 14v with the car on and it all looked fine but prob going to do it anyway unless anyone has any other sugections this weekend i got to deal with the valve cover leak i got new gasket and spark plug tube gaskets, im going to do the plugs while im in there. i also got to deal with the clunking issue on the front driver side. i looked under the car today and it looks like the sway bar end link on the driver side looks new and the passanger side looks like the orignal,"STRANGE THE NEW SIDE IS MAKING NOISE" i tried to see if the bolts are tight and the top bolt is and the bottom bolt keeps spinning. the fsm says "If the ball joint turns together with the nut, use a 5 mm hexagon wrench to hold the stud" so im going to try that first and tighten it to 25 lbs and if that dosnt work pull it off and do the joint inspection. and then go from there i guess i can disconnect it and drive real slow around the naborhood and see if it makes that nose when disconnected. Finaly the rotors are warped in the front, when i brake on the freeway super bad Steering wheel shakeing, going to see if i can get one more turn out of them for now and get some soft pads for now till i can get some cross drilled and ceramic ones when i get some more cash open to suggestions thanks

i kind of know what im doing lol, ive never worked on lexus before mostly just mercedes and gmc cars, im getting familiar with this car real quick! anyways in the past cars ive worked with valve stem seals go quick so i figured if i could use the rope trick on this car and change them out while i had the valve cover off. also i couldn't amagin the timing belt hasn't been changed with 140k on it, but who knows, my question is it looks like the top cover is only a few screws and you can view the condition of the belt, second question is i was working on a older 4runner and did the water pump belt and tentioner I couldnt find the timing mark on the crank with the crank pully off so i lined up the pulley and set the crank to 0 tdc and the top two cams had a line on the top, It looked like everything lined up and i put it all back together " i forgot to spin the crank one whole revolution and see if the marks lined up again, so now when running the car it has no power and verry hard to get the timing correct the only way it will run is to advance the hell out of the timing. so do i need to pull everything off again or can i just line up the crank to zero and set the top cams and rotate and see if they line up? i know this is the wrong forum for this engine but just thought i would ask. thanks

hello all, i bought a 2000 es 300 with vvti 140k and drove it out of town 500 miles with no issues, i did get it checked out before i left and they said all was well with the car, The people i got the car from said they changed a whole bunch of sensors and that was all i was told the car looks in good condition and the o2 sensors look new as far as i can see, so after i got to my destination i got track off and check engine light on, i red the codes which showed code p0305 witch was a misfire on cylinder 5, today i changed the coil on cylinder 5 witch was a tight fit but i got it in there. i cleared the codes and the car was running ok, so when i pulled off the oil fill cap it had some sludge build up so i figured i would give seafome a shot, so i poured about half in the gas tank, some in the oil and the rest in the vacume hose for the booster, The engine light flashed for a while showing random misfires, expected when there is fluid going into the intake, Anyways the car smoked for about 45 min A LOT OF SMOKE! then it cleared up i threw some 91 in and so far so good, So in a couple days my plans are: !: to drain the oil and put 5-30 valvolen max life with new filter 2: change spark plugs with ngk v powers with .044 gap 3 change both front and back valve cover gaskets with spark plug tube seals Now the issues that im having are: 1: i started getting a slight clunking when hitting light bumps from the front end on the driver side, What ive been reading is the Stabilizer sway bar link is the probable issue here, now for the other preventive maintenance: 1: im not sure the history of the timing belt or water pump or when it was replaced there is 140k on the car, it looks like you can just pull of the top cover with minimal effort but not sure, 2: valve stem seals, since im pulling off the covers this weekend is is possible to change the seals without pulling the whole head off? 3: transmission flush and filter replacement, i plan on flushing all the fluid out of the system and putting in VALVOLINE max life i did this on my old rx and had no issues ive herd lots of arguments on this and i dont plan on starting another one. so finally are the any other recommendations anyone has for me? or anything else you would do if you where in my shoes? thanks

hello everyone i really need the fsm for my 00 es 300 i would be glad on hosting all of them on my server if needed i noticed all the links are broken, please email or link to the fsm for my year or year range it would be a grate help as the 1997 fsm is not current and is missing a lot of information thanks a lot, Justin justinsaman@gmail.com

hello everyone i really need the fsm for my 00 es 300 i would be glad on hosting all of them on my server if needed i noticed all the links are broken, please email or link to the fsm for my year or year range it would be a grate help as the 1997 fsm is not current and is missing a lot of information thanks a lot, Justin justinsaman@gmail.com