jbrubaker

OK, where is the keyless control unt? I looked in the right rear near the antenae, all that is there is the antenea relay. Is it on the left side instead?

Just received my new keys from Lexus, but they came with a small circuit board chip. Any idea where this needs to be plugged into?

Thanks. After adding the water it did not act up, but I am going to top off system today with Engine coolant. Appreciate the input!

So I read a bunch of other posts, which leads me to a second question... How full should the power steering fluid canister be? The ull mark is not clear on the dipstick for this, and the canister is about 1/2 full, but below the 'funnel' neck inside the canister. Thanks again!

So I ran into a little issue with my ES300. Have had the car about 10 days, drove from Texas to PA and this weekend drove from PA to Florida. Temperature gauge is about midrange, which I think is acceptable, when cruising down the highway. When the engine is warm and sitting in traffic or at a stop light, the temperature gauge creeps up to almost the red mark on the gauge, ut upon pulling out, the gauge goes right back to the mid range. I opened the coolant overflow container (which BTW is full to the top), and noticed that there are 2 small holes in the plastic, each about the size of a pinhead, right above where the hose connects to go down into the overflow container. Also, the lid on this container does not fit very tight at all. Is this correct? If I take the cap off the engine where the cooant overflow cantainer connects, there is no fluid at the top there, and I wa able to add about 1.5 pints of water, and it will take much more. At first I thought maybe the auxiliary fan wasn't kicking on, and the air was cooling it sufficiently, but it seems that it is not pulling water out of the overflow container when it needs it, and not sure how it can with the two holes in the plastic. And this is the same whether the AC is running ornot. Any thoughts or experience? again, I am coming from owning German cars, so not completely sure how this system is to work. Thanks in advance! :)

Used a wallpaper steamer, worked great! Used a solution of 1 capful of ammonia per unit in the steamer and it peeled off in much bigger chunks. Thanks for the link, amf1932. I used some of what they said for my own solution. I am going to get this done again, although with better tint and by a pro.

Just an update. Once I depressed the trunk opener button in the glovebox the trunk release on the door worked again.

How often would you have this done? (The motorvac)

Thanks for the link. Looks great! I have a wallpaper steamer, I may try that.

I pressed the button in the glove box once because I doidn't want to walk around the car to push the door button. I will press it again whaen I get home. Thanks for the enligtenment. Gas tank does still pop.

replaced the bulbs that were burnt, no sweat. Developed another problem, though. I used the key to unlock the trunk instead of the trunk release. Now the trunk release in the drivers door does not work. I did check the wiring. My key is a master without remote, but I wouldn't see where that should make a difference, but who knows. and on that same subject, the trunk release in the glove box does not work either, but it didn't work previously. Any ideas out there?

Just a question for all those out there who may have had this experience - Someone applied the Privacy window film tint to the rear glass of my 94, and they did not do a good job. It is bibbled and peeling in palces and visibility through the rear glass is ptractically nill. I realize that I need to remove it all, but just not sure how. I have tried applying windex where it is peeling to break the glue free, but to no avail. I think the problem has been compounded by the rear defroster. Any suggestions how to remove this film and then what brand or process to use to retint this window? (If it is possible) so that I will not get the same results. Thanks!

WELL, HERE IS THE SKINNY ON THE 94 ES300 and the rear light indicator warning light. Found one reverse light out and one brake light out. There are three bulbs each side that illuminate when you apply the brakes. The indicator light (I like that term better than idiot light) stays off when the car is started until the first time the brakes are applied (putting the car in gear) and then the light stays on. Once I figure how to get the panel off in the trunk without breaking it (It was not well lit and pretty chilly this evening), I will get the bulbs replaced. Thanks to all for thir input. Hopefully this will help someone else as well.

what do you think of the valet 561T? Is that a viper product? And would I need an additional wiring harness to connect to the OEM security system? If the total for a good system and wiring harness is more than $250, then I will just order the keys from L:exus and use the OEM System. Remote start was a bonus, but not necessary. Keyless entry was what I was trying to acheive. Thanks again.

Thanks guys. I have a service CD ordered, which includes the manual. I checked all the lights on the rear, none are burnt out, but the dash light went back out. Must be a loose bulb or socket. You know how it is, though. Hard to fix when it's working properly.

IT is the ABS light. Will get it checked out. Didn't know if there was a secondary reservior like on my 85 Mercedes. Thanks!

Can someone please tell me what the light in the upper right by the fuel gauge is? Looks like a car with the back lights illuminated. I don't have an owner's manual yet, getting ready to leave for FL, need to know if it is something that needs my immediate attention. 1994 ES 300 Thanks. Jim

Any recommendation on the brand of remote strater? Looking for one that someone knows works. (has installed)

This light comes on on the dash. Is this standard or does it indicate low fluid? I have an ES400, 1994 Thanks!

Just loking for the information so I purchase the correct parts. My Lexus dealer has keys that fit my car (94 ES300) with the chip in them. This is the key with the button built in the key. $331 plus shipping. He says these keys need to be programmed in order to work. (Is anyone familiar with that procedure for this model year car?) I only have one key for the car, so i need to purchase 2 keys, $42 each is the best I can find. I know that I could put a remote start/keyless entry on the car, but do not want to mess up the current system. What has anyone installed in an aftermarket product with the remote start/keyless entry, and how hard was the install? Are there modules to plug in to work with the existing wiring? The kit would have to be less than $250 for it to make economical sense. Suggestions or experience from anyone?

Just wanted to check back in and thank all those for their input. Solved the hesitation and oil pressure problem today. Upon examination, found the wiring harness that led to the Oil pressure switch and the crank sensor had been put on the incorrect side of a bracket, probably when a timing belt was changed at some point in time. One of each of the wires was worn bare, the crankshaft sensor being almost worn the entire way through. Stripeed and retaped them individually, put hem back in the harness, moved them to behing the bracket for the alternator, and engine started fine and ran great. All the power I anticipated. So thanks again to all!

Thanks. I thought they should work, but wasn't sure. Has anyone else used these and done this? :D

What is the cost for this servie?

Where is the best place to purchase these online? Seems like a difficult item to find. I think I need both left and right, but not sure. How would I go about testing them?

And the FCC ID is not on the ECM in the trunk?