jbrubaker

Ok, so here is the fix. First of all to refer back to what I read somewhere (I think in a different thread), I want to confirm that the thermostat does fail in the open position. Made with three little 'ears' that lock it open when it gets hot. Sorry to say that the replacements are not made that same way. Just a standard thermostat. Thermostat housing is located off bottom rad hose. Bunch of stuff to remove and reinstall, but even with the guesswork, took about 1 hour. Thanks Alan, SKperformance, and everyone else, for the input. Momma is warm again so we will all be happy!

My filler neck is actually on the front of the engine, but I will follow the bottom rad hose from the radiator. According to the manual I have, the temperature sensor is on the front of the thermostat housing, but is does not say where that housing is... Will let you know.

Has anyone done this? I know it is only around $150 at the dealer, but like to do some labor myself. Model Year 1994. Any step by step would be helpful. Thanks! (I strated this thread here so i could give an update on a different thread in the ES300/ES330 forum)

Where am I to look, then? I saw where the filler neck came off. I already have the thermostat, obviously. One thing I did learn, though... Not so much to take the timing belt off and change it, and did find out that the water pump is fairly new (judging from the brightness of the aluminum of it and the dirt on the rest of the componenets.) So can anyone give me a step by step?

So I surrendered. After remoing the timing belt cover, I did notice that the water pump was new. Timing belt looked good, but maybe not new. Couldn't figure what else i had to remove to get to the thermostat. So I put it all back together. Will get it to my mechanic first of the week...

Looked good! Mileage was 99,230. Only thing I did not like was that it had already had 4 owners and service records only went to 20K, and had been all over the US (ohio to Texas to CA back to Texas to Utah.

So if I am correct in reading all the above (and thanks to all those who contributed, it has helped me make my mind up), then the second Gen started in 95? I passed on a car on auction yesterday, and after reading all the above, kicking myself swiftly. '96 LS400 with every option, $10761 delivered to my door. :chairshot: What was I thinking! But anyway... '95 is second gen, correct?

Looking at a 92 LS400, 100,000 miles and a 96 LS400, 99,000 miles. I can compare all the features vehicle to vehicle, about $6K difference in price (which is probably negligible, but the question I have is this - are there significant differnces in engine, ride, electronics, etc. between the two? Thanks!

Haven't looked at the car ye, but will check for dor fit, roof buckle, etc.

I do, too. Will let you know tomorrow...

Thanks, Alan. I think i can handle it, just wanting to know what kind of time to alot. I used to rebuild engines (mainly fords), and have done quite a few engine and tranny swaps, including Mercedes in the luxury car. Appreciate your help with where to look. Jus not quite as familiar with the imports. While I am at it, draining the coolant, any reason why I should choose to change from the green coolant to the orange?

Looking at a 96 that was hit from behind, very minor body damage, but the airbags deployed. Does anyone know the cost of replacement bags and installation? I've searched the forium for it and can't seem to find it. Thanks

Top radiator hose is warm to touch, but not too hot. Rad fan does not run continually. It took about 3 tablespoons of water until it was running out the neck of the filler cap. In my estimation, No air pockets. Going to change the thermostat today. Is the thermostat on the top of the engine under the filler cap?

My experience with air pockets has been intermittent heat in the cab. I will check the 'warmth of the hoses and the engine tomorrow am, as well as the water level. I had thought about the heater valve, based on some similar experience with my Mercedes, but had ruled it out when the temperature gauge registerd lowe than normal. Where is the thermostat located? I will check the rad fan as well, but do not think tht is he issue. I have not driven the car, just my wife, but will post what I find tomorrow. Thanks again.

Thanks for the responses so far. And I think i will probably drive it for a few months before I give it to him (just to work out any bugs, honest! ;) ) I ave ad my share of the older muscle, so I think it's time for a little newer muscle!

Alan, I have done that in a sense going down the road on a trip for about 100 miles. (left the heat on, not high, but set at 80 degrees). I wold assume that it would have the same afest a what you described o do, but will check tomorrow AM o be sure that the engineblock is full I read in one of the threads that Toyota thermostats wer made to failin th open position. Can anyone confirm this? Also, where is the thermotat locaed? In the housing under the filler neck?

Well, hoping this is as simple as it seems, but juswanted a couple of opinions, if I could get them. Wife was driving the car last friday, overheated. She pulled it over, I went to pick it up, refilled the engine block, found the culprit to be a defective radiator cap. Replaced it, level in reservior is perfect, temperature gauge styed right in the middle. Drove the car about another 100 miles, and the temperature gauge went from the middle of the range to laying on the bottom of the range, and the car quit blowing heat. I suspect a thermostat that is stuck wide open (affected by the engine overheating), or perhaps the previous owner removed the thermostat all together. Not sure which, and not completely convinced that this is the issue. I know, an engine running very cool, that is great, but here in PA where winter has set back in it would be great to have heat back in the cab. BTW, water level is still pefect in the block and in the overflow reservior. Any thoughts, and where is the thermostat located?

So I had not gotten any input yet, so thought I would move the thread back towards the top. Hope that is acceptable. Anyway - Any input on Model years I should avoid, or maybe the year I should begin looking? Any repairs that are typical these cars outside of normal maintenance (so if I find someone who has done them recently I am ahead of the game)? Again, thank for any input.

So here is the update, and hopefully the solution. Let me give a little more backgrund on the problem though, as I have been thinking about it and today's experience. Car overheate on y wife (of course!), just on her way home from work and just before she was to leav with my daughter for a cross-state trip (Pennsylvania). She pulled off the road, and I drove to where she was, about 10 minutes from home. Took off the radiator cap, and bone dry. Also the coolant overflow tabk was dry as well, but I suspect that was from the water boiling out of it. Anyway, refilled it with water and coolant and drove it home. As I went past my neighborhood mechanic's garage, I notice he was in, so I stopped to get his opinion. Lifted the hood, and the coolant overflow was full again. (BTW, there is a hose down into the container, I may not have explained that adequately.) Anyway, removed the radiator cap to check the level, and there was pretty much no pressure on the system. Pressure checked that radiator cap, and it would not hold any pressure. He just happened to have a radiator cap for a different mdel Lexus, but the same poundage. Tested the pressure on it, and it held pressure. So refilled the engine with coolant again, emptied the overflow canister down to the fill line, pu the cap on, and let the car run for about 15 minutes. The overflow canister did not fill up again, but stayed right on the line, and the engine needle styed dead solid in the middle. So I would say prolem solved. BTW, the great part of this is an observant wife who pulled over as soon as she noticed something was wrong. Probably saved the head gaskets and maybe even the heads or the rest of the engine. I cannot stress this enough for new drivers to pay attention to the gauges. They are there for a reason. So on to the next issue, the temp gauge needle is burnt out, so I am going to get that repaired or use one of the methods from the forum for doing it myself. Hope this will help somene else!

I am a the same place, getting ready to purchase. Is there a certan model year I should or shouldn't start looking at? I am always hesitant to ook at the 1st 2 model years of any vehicle, to let the manufacutrer work out the 'bugs'. Any thoughts? :)

Just a personal experiaince - after the timing belt in my lexus was changed, the crank sensor wire was put on the incorrect side of the alternator bracket, and was partially rubbed through by the alternator belt. the result was poor perfomrance (coughing), but only occasionally), and a check engine light, with the code being the crank sensor. Actually, I think this is why the car I now own was sold, they could not find the problem. the error code set by the computer was a crank sensor error. Mine is a 1994 ES300.

I got these at http://www.lexus-parts.com You can search by year and model. All i needed to supply was the VIn number and verification i owned the card (Insurance card and Photo ID) I think from reading all the threads the 97 is a FOB, though, and is programmed just a little differently (Search the forum for the word 'keyless'. There are specific instructions there from others who have done this.) Let us all know what you find out.

I am going to be in the market for an SC soon. I already own an ES300, which I have had for about a month, but it has made a believer out f me (I had owned Mercedes up to this point) This is going to be a gift for my son, who is not very mechanical (yet), so I am looing for something depedable with good repair history. He is 21, so a bit ore responsible as a driver than when he was 16. What do the experts in this forum recommend? Model Year? Model? (SC300, SC400). Don't think I can afford the 430 yet. Is there anything I should ook fo as a red-flag? hanks in advance for all the input.

Bit the bulllet and paid the $331 from lexus-parts.com (Sewell Lexus in Texas). Went with this option as all I was going to have to purchase two keys anyway ($84), and all I was trying to accomplish as keyless entry. For a good Remote startwith keyless plus 2 keys I only got one key when I purchased the car about a month ago) I wasgoing to be in the $500 range from what I read in he forums here concening the remote stat unit and doing my wn research for a good remote start unit. Just one other note - realy apreciateall the knowledge and experienceshared through these forums. I am a DIYer, so I will be glad to add any of my experiences as well to ep any other Lexus novices ther may be.

OK, found it on the left side, behind brace and above the light relay. Took about 10 minutes total to rmove, replace chip, and reinstall. Piece of cake. Don't sweat oing it if you decide to go this route.