SeanGrac

Fuel filter cost about $15; can't remember, but somthing like that, It'll take you 20 minutes to change.

What do you mean by "flush" the tranny? And where did you hear that? Other than that; this is your car. Check everything you can and take care it. Don't wait for something to go wrong with it. Do a complete inspection of everything you feel confident about doing. If you hear, see, feel and/or smell something; that's good place to start. Once you get to point were you know everything is good; keep it on a regular PM schedule. So, back to your first question. EVERYTHING!

Yes sorry, I used the wrong term, I was speaking of the wires that may be frayed somewhere. The buzz is coming from the window panel control. So you think I should open that rubber hose that goes from the door into the car? Yes, in the rubber. It is possible to pull it out of the car side and push it into the door. Just enough room to get a look once you peel off the electrical tape. If there is not enough room to work, you can: A) cut a hole in the rubber; or B) Take the door apart to gain access to the rubber from inside the door and pull it into the door for the most room that you need. (It's not that difficult. Just a bit more time.) But before you do that, make sure; with door open, grab the wire bundle(rubber) and wiggle/twist/bend it while operating the window. If you can get it to stop you that's it. Maybe use an adjustable wrench for the grab, just don't go overboard on it.

First off; if the cable was broke, it will not work! Second, where is the buzz coming from? Most importantly you say that when the door is open, it works. To me that sounds like the wires. Try looking for broken/frayed wires in the bundle in the door jam.

247,000 and still kicking it. :D

i have it saved to my favs!!! long time agoi hope all this info helps everyone else! i really can try anything else till i get a new ecu! i really wish i never got into this car!!!!!!!!! ive spent about 700 bucks on making it look good run good a.c tune up i mean so much cash right after i got it!!!! i havent even put 100miles on it! it drove home frome the guys house that was it! i said let me give it a tune up you know to welcome it too the new home and look how it wants to act! i lalso have a 3rd gen es300 pushing 250k on it and no trouble what so ever in the second owner i got it with 60k almost new i beat the brakes of it a real trooper 140mph on the highway at 3:30 am thats what i call a good lexus its my wifes daily drive it gets miles all in all i realy wish i never got this car as some as its up and running its sold for what ever i can get for it! well i fixed it! its was the ecu that was burned!!! then the idel air control valves gasket was bad fixed that too! now i have code 13 - RPM signal no. 2 and the car sputters when i drive off and cel is on too! can anyone give any ideas on what to look for??? is rpm signal #2 the coil and if so witch one drives side next to the a.c compresor or not? That would be the passenger side. If you remember when you changed that rotor; you had a 2 wire harness coming out the front of the lower rotor cover. That is it. Look for it's connector just above the thermestat housing. Check for broken wire(s).

Sounds to me you should take a look at the volume knob and assoc wires first. There should be three wires for vol. A high (voltage), a low (ground) and a reference (as you adjust the knob; the volume will change) So, since you have to take the center console apart it ; check the knob before you yank the radio out. If the connector and wires look ok; remove the two screws that hold the knob assy to the bezel. Carefully take the knob assy apart; you will see locking tabs around the sides. If you break all the tabs you can always use super glue. Anyway now you can get to the innerards of the Vol knob. Once you take the knob off the assy you should see the copper contacts and wiper arms. clean them with isopropyl or something and put it back together. Also if the backlighting is out now is the time.

well i got if fixed it was the plugs! looks like thyve never been changed and the had water in them! ! next issue the car was ideling bad ruff and them to high so i screwed around and now the car is in limp mode! i disconeted the battery erased the codes and them its fires up in limp mode! code 27 and 24 can anyone please help me ???? i feel like burning the dam car! i swear too god i well two bucks in gas and a camara ! and it well be on you tube! help me someone!! heres some pics of my bucket code 27 is your sub o2 sensor(s) code 24 is air intake temp. signal I would go to the o2 sensors first. since your plugs got fouled; I'd say that your o2's got fouled as well.

yes

If you are going to change the trans mounts, change the eng mounts as well.

Take the coin out of the cigarette lighter.

COULD A WEAK ALTERNATOR CAUSE THIS EVEN IF I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY? THEORETICALLY COULDNT THE ALTERNATOR BE BAD, AND A NEW BATTERY COULD COMPENSATE FOR IT UNTIL IT RAN OUT OF JUICE? Do you get any "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights. And how are you "reseting the relays"? If you're getting Check Eng; do you know how to retrieve the codes. As I said before;There are a couple of other things that might also cause you problems. Just don't panic and Keep It Simple S_____. Take everything into account that the car is doing and not doing. ie., you should have "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights on before you crank it and they go out after the engine is running. This is all helpful info. Also, do you have a multimeter? If so; with eng off, place Pos(+) lead on Pos post of Batt. Neg(-) lead on eng block. Read and record Voltage DC. Start eng; Voltage should rise a few volts over 12VDC. this tells you that your Alt/&voltage regulator are good. When I reset my relays, I mean I physically pull them out in the fuse box, and put the relay right back in. I reset the EFI relay, and most times it lets me start the car right up. I don't get any lights in my dash, and all lights turn out after the car starts. The car runs fine once it starts, I'm now thinking cold start injector switch or injector problem. What do you think? Haven't chkd the alt voltage yet. OK. Now take out the EFI relay and check it's contacts. Make sure that they are clean. Use a small nail file or sand paper,anything. If you have that multimeter check ; for ground on pin 3. And finally, since your there; swap the relay with the DEFROST relay. As it is summer and I don't think your using it.

COULD A WEAK ALTERNATOR CAUSE THIS EVEN IF I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY? THEORETICALLY COULDNT THE ALTERNATOR BE BAD, AND A NEW BATTERY COULD COMPENSATE FOR IT UNTIL IT RAN OUT OF JUICE? Do you get any "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights. And how are you "reseting the relays"? If you're getting Check Eng; do you know how to retrieve the codes. As I said before;There are a couple of other things that might also cause you problems. Just don't panic and Keep It Simple S_____. Take everything into account that the car is doing and not doing. ie., you should have "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights on before you crank it and they go out after the engine is running. This is all helpful info. Also, do you have a multimeter? If so; with eng off, place Pos(+) lead on Pos post of Batt. Neg(-) lead on eng block. Read and record Voltage DC. Start eng; Voltage should rise a few volts over 12VDC. this tells you that your Alt/&voltage regulator are good.

A weak batt can cause it. However, make sure you have the right size battery; refering to CCA. There are a couple of other things that might also. You didn't mention if the engine turned over or if it tried to turn when you have problems. Anyway you can take your batt in to your local auto-ware shop to get it tested on a load.

Before you go and take the spoiler: Open the trunk; you should see a couple of wires/harness with a connector about mid-way on passenger side. Check for voltage (12VDC I think) on the connector going into the trunk. While you are there; go down to hinge point and check for broken/frayed wire.

The same thing happened to me. It is a control rod; links the outside handle to the lock (actuator). Most likely, the plastic clip that holds the rod to the handle broke; which free's the rod to get in the way of the window when it's going down. Hopefully it did not get to bent out of shape (no pun.) Although it is time consuming; (mostly to be safe), it is not difficult. A good ratchet set with a univeral is all you need. I was able to gently bend the rod back it to place (without breaking it) and put a new clip on. I found one at autozone or something. Came in a "Foreign car door rod clip multi-pack." Or you can go for it and go to the dealer and get the oem.

depends on what you'll be doing. you just might need both.

All you have to do is short out a couple of pins on the data link connector(1- on top of engine [rectanglular]; 2 - front/left floor [round]. Jump E1 with TE1 to get codes. -With jumper installed; crank engine. you must count the 'CHECK ENGINE' light as it flashes. -First series= first digit; a short pause. Second series = second digit. then a longer pause. then; the next code and so on. I think once it goes through the list it repeats. Jump E1 with TE2 to clear code. -With jumper installed; crank engine and the 'CHECK ENGINE' light will flash continuosly. hope it helps.

Try the self diagnostic for the a/c. I can't remember the buttons that you have to push; but they are on the ac control panel. Its like the "recirc" and off buttons at the same time. Anyway, my local library has 'Mitchell's' online. Try yours. If it's not free; it's cheap. P.S. I am assuming that you have plenty of coolant in. If the comes on it needs more.

Change the thermostat.

It is lean or rich. I can't remember. Look through the other posts to confirm. It not camshaft. those are 12 & 13

Change your thermostat

I am sorry to hear about that. I do feel your pain.:cries: :cries: I also have a 93 sc400 (black). If you do decide to part-out; I will pay a fair price plus shipping. My wish list is: coolant reserve tank; NAKIMICHI 12 CD player; passenger interior door handle assembly; exterior right side mirror assembly(color doesn't matter); rear driver's side light assembly. There are few more things to list. But those are my top things and i don't want to seem like am hog or uncaring. Just that I think You should not give it to a junk dealer that will do the same thing only charge an arm and a leg while giving you a few hundred in return. Email me at Bayisafyou@comcast.net or call 707-208-6183

I recently had this code and traced it to the right side camshaft sensor. The wiring actually. It is a little time comsuming to get to but not difficult. Looking at the engine, you will see 2 wires next to the themostat housing and it's connector trace them down to just under the passenger side camshaft/distributer housing; just above them belt tensioner pulley. If it is not the wires; it's the sensor. You can find it LEXUS_PARTS.COM. GOOD LUCK.