SeanGrac

it's not the ECU

You did not say anything about "TRAC OFF" in other post. check (see if blown) and remove "Dome" fuse for a few minutes to clear "TRAC" codes. Also check brake fluid.

no problem. that' what it is supposed to do. The light is yellowish if I remember. IF you see the light it a WARNING. Put the key in; turn to ACC, light will come on for about 3 seconds then go out after engine started. If, while driving, the light blinks; then you have a problem. If I remember right, the system is tied in with ABS and Throttle, so if it blinks while driving; drive safely.

Check the throttle position sensor (TPS)

with engine on; does the manual switch work, is the auto switch in or out.(on left steering column) Is the dome light on?

with or without the key in; engine running; etc. more info needed

Go to http://www.sylvania.com/BusinessProducts/AutomotiveLighting/

First off; there is more than one fuse for the system. Since you didn't say which you had; go and check all of them. Off the top of my head the "DOME 10A" & "DOOR 30A" fuses powers both windows and moonroof.

You have to get to the shifter and the ignition switch. The "Key InterLock Switch" is on the ignition switch. It gets it's signal from the "Shifter Ecu.(on the Shifter)" First get to the shifter; there is a small paddle switch [on the shifter panel, 2" forward of 'P' is a little pop up panel; the switch is directly underneath (shift lock override; I think) check that first; with the key out and pressing the switch{down}; try to shift gears (shifting should work.) Let go of switch {up}; Shifter should not move. This may be tied in with the "Key Inter Lock" directly; I know it is indirectly. If the shift lock override switch is not the problem; next check the ignition switch "Key Interlock solenoid". I'm not sure if you can get to it from underneath or not but, on the right side of the key cylinder is a little square box. put your finger on it and turn the key ("ACC") (your're feeling for a click). You might have into shift to drive. Just make sure whether or not you feel the click. Move shifter to "park"; key to "off" ECT. check every combo and record results. While your are there and if you have a mutlimeter; take off the connector {11 pin rectagle} on the back of the key cylinder. Check for 12-17 ohms on pins 7 & 8. [when looking at the connector, lock tab on top; bottom row pins 3 & 4 from the right.] Repost after you are done with all that.

With car cold; mark the expansion tank to fluid level(should be at the cold line.) Crank and run car. Yeah, I know I saw your other post. Once the car is up to temp (needle is mid way); the themostat is supposed to be open. Re-check your expansion tank. Once everthing is hot and flowing; 'cause it's open; the level should rise. If not; there is blockage. The only things that will block; as far as I can think; are: themostat, heater core, and water pump not working. I think it's going to be the themostat. Read and re-post.

Which clicking sound? That of the soleniod or of the starter trying to crank? I think your saying the solenoid. Anyway; if it it clicks, it wants to start. That's 2 things starter or solenoid. First; jump start it. If that works you need Battery. If noise is the same as you describe: starter. If noise changes: repost a more detailed description of what happens and what you hear.

front passenger floorboard

1992 SC400 Auto, Original stock, No major work; 251,000 MILES.

Are you sure it's not a fuel problem?

And how much did you put in after the change? 4 Qrts. What Eng do you have. What's with the 10W? And by the way; what's the total capacity of oil for your eng?

Which fuses have you checked. How many? Is your cigarette lighter working?

That's funny. If they changed the water pump: as the should have, along with everything else, you got a good deal; {Timing belt, idle pully, auto tensioner, timing belt tensioner, yada; yada,yada.} That kit sell's for $120'is. That's not the labor. By the book; radiator drained; taken out and re-installed; maybe flushed, and as along as your there, get the themostat. When it all comes down to it; if you got all that for $ 600.00, great. But I think not. Sure, the timing belt can be done without the radiator removal; but it does drive the labor cost way-up if you don't take it out. As with anything; if they said they changed a part; ask them to show you where they pulled the old part from; with the old part so you can 'picture where it goes, just in case.' And do you still have Code #13? That code is for just 1 camshaft speed sensor. (The right side if I remember right.) And what about the TRAC light? There're is so much.

Since you've just replaced the alt, it seems a likely place to start. First I would check that all your charging system connections/grounds are secure and tight. Then test the alt output. When did he say he changed the ALT? AND con't forget the Batt terminals.

The octane rating will have nothing to do with dirty fuel, gunky injectors, clogged fuel lines or polluted gas tanks. Very simply: It relates to the ignition temperature (Heptane, iso-octane, blah, blah, blah). The higher the octane rating the higher the ignition temp (i.e. 87 burns at a lower temp than 93). High compression ratio engines typically have a higher head temp, therefore the gas ignites before the chamber is sealed, blasting the valve train, causing pinging (valves being forced shut). It is also not an energy measurement, so you won't get better MPG with higher octane. If you drive hard or with the car under load you may notice pinging, or "pre-detonation" with low octane fuel. The SC400 1UZ-FE engine is 10:1 compression ratio, which is pretty high. Your pedestrian sedans run typically around 8:1. If you are a leadfoot speedracer, you'll probably benefit from a higher octane rating in the SC400. I'm a very reasonable daily driver type, so 87octane does me just fine. I do recommend buying brand name gas to avoid polluting the system. I have no favorite, but feel comfortable with Shell, Texaco, Chevron, BP, etc, but am uncomfortable buying from no-branded convenience stores and Bob and Malinda's shop and go... So what Greenie is trying to say is get 87. I have 250K+ miles on 87 with no prob. After I do a tune-up; (sometimes everyother), I treat her to an octane boost; (why not, she treats me good!). We do feel a difference. So unless you just want the quick jolt; get the high gas. Or, you can get the the octane boost with the 87. It's cheeper. FYI: So you go to the gas pump; Mostly have three grades; ie, 87 -90- 93. There are only 2 gasolines there; 87/93. If you want the mid-grade; it just mixes the 2.

"TRAC" & " BRAKE" are related systems. Traction control system controls eng torque and rear wheel brakes so no fishtailing. So it not so weird that they both come on. check fluid level first. To check the codes: key to ON then use a paper clip to short terminals Tc and E1 of the Diagnostic connector on floor board(drivers). Count the Trac light; if there are codes it will flash in groups. Blink-blink- pause- blink=21 in between each code is a slightly longer pause. ignore codes 11&21 or a continous flash. to clear the codes short out same terminals and depress brake pedal 8 or more time in 3 seconds. drive and if light comes back recheck codes. Well that's for starters. Come back after you get that info.

I would first check for power to the switch with a test light from the back side of the plug. It's just not power on 1 side of motor, apply a ground on the other side to make it work. It's more of a logic circuit. Activating the Pass switch goes back to thru the Driv side/(Master) switch. The master switch has to flip/flop the Pass side switch(sort of). You say you can lower the Pass window from Pass side switch(what about raise it). Try everything: lower Pass window from Pass side part way then try to lower from Driv side; then press & hold WINDOW LOCK and try to lower; etc... Try everything possible. If you can't get it to work; that's going to leave Theft Det. ECU; fuses; Power Window Main Relay; and then wires. P/W main relay somewhere near drivers fuse panel.

Did you check the wires from the switch to the ECU?

On your shifter panel, there is a small rectangler cap(plastic) just pry that up and push something down. You can now shift.

Change the themostat. Trust me.

Did anyone depressurize the fuel lines before attempting the filter change? Just wondering.